Cannot tell much from the close up pics you posted but it sure does not look like the Redguard is covering every square inch of that cement board.

He should use a Schluter that doesn’t stick out so far. They make them for many different thicknesses of tile.

Way bigger problems than a trim piece here.

the industry standard for ski jumps on any single plane is 1/8" over 10'. If your contract guarantees an industry compliant install? TCNA TTMAC ANSI.... you can get the level out and check the work. and remember "Plane is required, Level is desired"

***Any homeowners considering tile work you want a contract w standards declarations so you have undebateable recourse when things go bad.

How are those tiles adhered to the wall?

Are you saying that the Schluter is being slid under the tile after installation of the tile?? Isn't it supposed to be installed first or in conjunction with the tile? That way it's all on the same plane.

Why isn't the trim done the same way for the niche and the window?

"How are those tiles adhered to the wall?"

Another good question as looking at the exposed edges they appear they might only be spot bonded, which is a huge no-no in a shower.

I'm not understanding your description. Is the problem with the tiles around the inside of the window (the ones creating the jamb)? Or with the wall tiles that butt up to the window?

What tile isn't flush with what drywall? There shouldn't be any drywall in your shower, so do you mean cement board? Or the drywall on the wall at the end of the shower?

If you could annotate your photos, or put arrows on them or something, that would help.

I meant cement board. its not drywall. The lip of the window frame is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch out from cement board. The tiler is putting the schluter on the lip of the window. So together with the lip of the window and the depth of the schluter backing the tile is bowed/curved from the cement board to the schluter. The tiles that meet the window frame are not flat with the other tiles. you can see this visually. so its not as though the variation is over the whole wall, its just in the last row/column of tiles laid at the window I hope this makes better sense.

Out carpenter who is also a GC said the tiler should use a quick set mortar to build out the wall so it is flush with the window to avoid the issue. GC also noticed tiler is using premixed water soluble mortar to set the shower tiles and he prefers to use cement in showers although the specs on premixed mortar say it can be used for shower walls.

Thank you everyone for your responses!

I'd want to see the window sill over hanging the tile and the joint under the sill being sealed with silicone. Right now it looks like water would run down behind the trim and tiles. The whole window bay should have been waterproofed before the pieces were installed.

OK, I think I understand. The existing inside (wood?) window frame is not flush with the cement board, it sticks out a bit. Thus the tiles on the walls abutting the window have to slant out a bit to cover the edge of the window frame trim.

This would be a problem with or without the Schluter. The window frame trim really needs to be flush with the cement board. So I'd either (1) pull out the trim, slice it down to be flush and re-install it, or (2) put in new pieces of trim that extend farther into the shower, so that the tiles can butt their cut edges up to it, no Schluter needed. I t hink #2 is the better aesthetic choice.

And btw, I'd use PVC boards, not wood, and make sure the 2x4 framing behind the trim is waterproofed.

this is a long existing vinyl window. i don’t think we can cut/alter the window trim. the window was installed a long time ago and the vinyl is part of the window. Cutting it would damage it.

"GC also noticed tiler is using premixed water soluble mortar to set the shower tiles"

Those tile will be off the will right after his warranty is up pretty much guaranteed. Just because the mastic company says it can be used in a shower does not mean it really can. Redo it now before he finishes as the waterproofing is not correct either.

Another good question as looking at the exposed edges they appear they might only be spot bonded, which is a huge no-no in a shower.

That's why I asked the question.

And mastic cannot be used to adhere tile and tile needs to have a full buttering, and not just spot adhered

OK, so in retrospect, the cement board should have been shimmed out to be flush with the vinyl window. Given that it's too late to that (at least at reasonable cost/effort), I'd look at building the window frame out a bit with some sort of PVC trim. Screen molding, quarter round, something like that. See what your local hardware store has. Then the cut edge of the tile can butt up to it.

That said, if you confirm what the others are saying above about the faulty installation, and plan to tear it all out, then make sure on the redo that the tiler shims out the cement board to line up with the window.

Sorry for changing the topic but I have a tile question. I just tiled my kitchen backsplash my self, never tiled before. After I grouted I noticed that one tile was in contact with the adjacent wall. Was aiming for 1/8" gap. Question is should I cut it away from the wall or will it be OK to go ahead and chaulk.

I dont know maybe start your own thread?