This is the pertinent portions of a thread from a few years ago that might help: Multiple Plants in One Hole The three-to-a-hole thing is a totally new concept to me. I question if that would work because each of the trees would grow at unequal rates. I have a Fuerte, a Reed and a Haas planted in close proximity (15 feet apart) and clearly the Fuerte is growing much faster than the other two. All three were planted at the same time, but the Fuerte is easily twice as big as the other two. If you put three trees in the same hole, wouldn't one eventually overgrow the other two? ___________________________________________________________________ Three in a hole planting is easy. To insure good drainage first make a 12" to 18" mound that is at least 4 or 5 feet wide. Then dig a hole in it large enough for the three 5 gallon size trees. Throw some slow release fertilizer in the hole. Make sure the trees are a few inches above the soil surface. They may settle a little. And you don`t want them planted too low. Cover the whole mound with a thick coat of mulch and you are set. The trees won`t grow any slower because they are sharing a hole. Its a great space saver. Reed and Pinkerton are Guatemalan and Fuerte is a hybrid. You need a Mexican for better pollination. Bacon would be a good choice. ___________________________________________________________________ For years I`ve done the 3 in a hole planting with all my fruit trees from avocados, persimmons, cherimoyas, asian pears and guavas to peaches, plums, nectarines, apples and apricots. I get good production from all of them. I`ve never had one of the three trees grow faster and take over the hole. It works especially well with stone fruits like peaches. In one hole I have a early bearing peach, a mid season and a late season variety. My avocado trees are still young so I don`t get that many avocados yet. _________________________________________________________________ Three in one or 4 in 1 up to several in one hole is a very good alternative to multigraft trees. I have pears that are not graft compatible so I planted them all in one hole, and they are not complaining. They've been busy supplying me with fruits for two seasons now. But then again, most of my fruits are multi-grafts, some I did the grafting myself. __________________________________________________________________ It is still possible to plant them in one hole if the difference in size is not great. So just find a bigger Granny Smith to match the size of your Pink Pearl. During the dormant season, you can dig out the pink pearl to bare root it. Make sure to prune the top to compensate for the root disturbance. You can prune the pearl to be the same size as that of granny smith. Then plant them back together in the same hole. Deciduous trees that go a period of dormancy are okay for this. I have even dug bigger trees, bare-rooted them and relocated them to the proper place. When the winter temperature is mild, I dump a lot of ice around the plant everyday for one week before I dig them out and bare-root them. You can not do this with Avocados and most other evergreen fruit trees like citruses. ___________________________________________________________________ ??? You're mentioning 5 gal plants.... I was under the, perhaps misguided, impression that to do this 'multiples in one hole' technique you had to use bare root trees. ???? ___________________________________________________________________ You don`t see bare root avocado plants. For some reason only "stone" fruits like peaches, plums and apricots are available bare root. I`ve only seen avocado plants in 5 or 15 gallon containers. The trunks aren`t as close as they would be if they were bare root, but it hasn`t made a difference in my trees. ___________________________________________________________________ I think the reason you don't see bare-root Avocados and Citrus is because they're evergreen trees. You can't really bare-root an evergreen commercially. __________________________________________________________________ ..so can i place all three 5gal buckets(with the bottoms cut out) in the hole?? will that work??? only reason ide like to do that is i once heard that the buckets serve as a guide for the roots to shoot more downward rather than outward.. that way the roots dont get all crazy and lift my back wall up in the future... but if you just drop all 3 in the hole bare root style so be it..whatevers best for the tree's is best for me. i love hass and reed never tasted bacon though .. anymore tasty trios that will work great together??.. ___________________________________________________________________ Â

If there was resin coming out, it was probably something like gummosis /foot rot, normaly caused by overwatering allowing a fungus to develop in the roots or inside the plant under the bark, gummi resin comes out when cutting citrus branches they heal well and dont need a coating to seal wounds, make sure the cuts are clean and what you cut with has not been used on diseased parts of the plant, wipe between cuts with something like rubbing alcohol and let it dry between cuts you can take a cutting with citrus and root it in compost in another container but it is not that successfull unless you have heated propergator and you would want a few cuttings to get one to work, oranges arent as easy as lemons, lemons are very easy to root The best way is to use `air layering` the method you mention using a plastic cup etc, but a better method i have used and seen otyhers use on citrus is to use sphagnum moss ( from garden center ) instead of the soil/compost and use a piece of plastic sheeting instead of a plastic cup, but the cup does work, damp the moss and pack it around the branch and put the cup around it and then wrap the whole lot up lightproof grafting tape, they root better with no light, when its ready to cut off the tree the bag/cup will be full of roots, not one or two, it will be full, then you can cut it off the tree and plant it in a pot Some people scrape the bark off, some dont, some use rooting powder some dont, most do scrape the bark to expose the cambium layer If your doing the air layering, see if you can find a fruiting age tree that someone will let you do it with as well and you will get a fruiting plant within a couple of years as long as the tree was old enough to fruit

Thanks Craig for your North Tulsa report. I will forward your info on. Sorry, that I have not gotten with you sooner. I've been busy "chasing Monarchs!" You are right on the money, Dawn. Monarchs love to fly way up there with the raptors. Have you ever seen a Monarch circle around, and then go up until they are out of sight? They love to catch the thermals, as the hawks and other migrating birds do when the north wind is just perfect. They exert alot less energy, and more guaranteed survival by sailing with the wind, as opposed to continually flapping their wings against the wind. Alot of hawk watchers in Texas are also good Monarch reporters. Large roost update: At home, Monday evening, rain and strong southerly winds had Monarchs scurrying to the north side of the trees, looking for shelter. Tuesday morning, the wind changed to the north, and about 9 a.m., the Monarchs were coming down out of the trees, spreading their wings, trying to soak up what sun they could. By 12 noon, most of them were gone. If there would have been any way I could have gotten off Tues., I would have dearly LOVED to have gone out to the large roost, and gotten pics of them with their wings open trying to soak up the rays before they left! That's were folks get these great pics of Monarchs roosting with their wings open! Oh, well.... another time. I have heard that there is another wave of Monarchs noted in Bartlesville, that should be making their way down. This group seems to be late. I had about 6 Monarchs in my yard today. There is always a bit of sadness when a large group leaves, though I know that they "gotta go", and time is of essence. The first bunch of Monarchs are already approaching the Mexican border! Journey North has some great articles on how high can you see Monarchs? Here is a link that might be useful: How high do Monarchs travel?

how about a pic of the tree... the pot/planter .... etc ... you should always plant into damp media ... you should not plant into dry material ... and then hope you can properly water all of it from the top ... trees like a sip of water.. and then near total draining ... most of the water runs right thru ... which you wont know.. because your pot retains the water ... i would like a pic of the gizmo that holds the water.. can it be left out of the pot ... ??? i cant think of any tree.. that needs to be fed every 2 weeks ... is this a houseplant [now that i googled it]??? ... if so.. i wonder if you might find some peeps with direct experience.. in that forum ... it would be a different equation.. if its outdoors in a large pot .. the trick here.. is that as your proper media.. washes water out the bottom.. you need to put it back in the pot ... and that is a tough equation .... i guess i would start with an equivalent pot size.. and practice with it after ... presuming the plant has not been touched yet .... what difference would it make.. if you waited a month while practicing with your media ... the biggest problem with trees in pots .... is too much water ... as the roots tend to start rotting .... you say the roots are weak.. but you dont say.. the plant has been affected ... is it.. hence the pic request ... look at this link for the section on water and fert ... unless i read it wrong .. let it dry to an inch depth .. and fert it once or twice per year... if growing it as a bonsia... which i presume he means as a houseplant ... https://www.epicgardening.com/money-tree-plant/ you have to make sure ... with trees in pots ... that you dont love them to death .... and it starts with watering .. or better put.. drying ... ken ps: note what the link says about media ... and it also says... if you repot.. dont be surprised with some leaf losses due to the process ...