Jerry, CC: Lucky & Scott

THE MULTIPLE-TREES IN A HOLE & INOSCULATION TECHNIQUE -

I think I discovered a potentially ideal approach to growing multiple trees (of the same under-stock variety) in a single-trees range of space: a variation the multiple-trees in one hole approach. Perhaps, this is entirely what Scott was describing in his recommendation about keeping the trees inches apart and bending the branches outward  and someone even commented: will this bond the trees, just like in natureÂ? It is based on an old, neglected technique: Âinosculation - natural grafting. IÂm really hoping this should work, so I thought I'd run by you. (However, there may be a fatal flaw regarding this apparent solution  see below*)

What if you planted 2, 3, or 4 trees (in my case: 4 American persimmon cultivars: ÂSzukisÂ, ÂEarly GoldenÂ, ÂMorris BurtonÂ, & [Undecided]) in the same hole spaced at 8" apart so that, in time, as the trunks expanded, they would make contact with each other, being mutually flushed against one another; the outer bark would wear away between the trunks, resulting from wind movement, growth, and the increasing pressure itself; some pruning in between the trunks would encourage sufficient air circulation until the complete fusion occurs. Ultimately, they will share nutrients through the sap and roots. You want to have a single trunk formed of the 2, 3, or 4 scion sources and you want this single trunk to extend for several feet above the ground before diverting in the 2, 3, or 4 directions, rather then multiple apexes at ground level as could happen if you just allow the root-stocks and very lowest bases of the trees to bond. If the divergences do not start at a decent height above ground level.

If you donÂt get a single trunk to remain united long enough, the 2, 3, or 4 separate union-bound scions will be more inclined to break off under their own weight when mature. So, I think you would see to it that the individual trees, from the ground up, grow completely straight for 4 and, then, suddenly be bent in opposing directions (everything above the 4 height point). If trained in this manner, once the individual trunks expand (which each at the point of 8" diameter), they will be joined in a single trunk union until the scions divert into their respective directions - actually higher, due to increase height by that time. (It seems completely likely that you can cause the union to remain solid from roots to crown, so that it is a single trunk tree the whole-way. However, this would not be a good idea, as it would render the same effect of engrafting multiple-scions onto a single rootstock according to standard cleft, saddle, rind, etc. techniques. From what you guys explained to me, in such a case, as older branches are replaced by the prevailing, newer ones you will end up loosing certain scions/cultivars in the 2-, 3-, or 4-way competition  although, maybe not as likely with a duo.)

So, you want to maintain 2 main branches on a duo/3 main branches on a trio/4 main branches on a quartet where upon all sub-branches (belonging to each of the respective 2-4 main branches) are free to die-out and replace themselves without risk of being replaced by a different cultivar variety; the only branches that never die out are the main branches (2-4 starting points. You cannot allow any buds to develop between the base of the trunk and point at which each scion-specific host branch extends outward from the trunk.

*PROBLEM?....

HereÂs what I am worried about: if you do this with any more than just 2 trees (think 3 coins in a triangle-shaped trio; or think 4 coins in a box-shaped quartet) right in the center of the 3 or 4 will be a central deposit column of trapped dead bark; the side of the bark which is exposed to the air will be an exit for the eroding bark, but the point in the center where there is a mutual enclosure, all of the dead material will accumulate. I guess as the 3 or 4 become one, the true center of the trunk will be dead  wouldnÂt that cause the tree to rot from the core or is this completely fine? If this works, this is much better than playing around with grafts and looks better then the common model: 3 or 4 to a hole, spaced at 12"  30" apart; it looks better (more naturalistic and less patch-work commercial in a landscape), although it wonÂt keep the trees as short, but it will help  just prune.

After reviewing all of this, and if it turns out that this does work (without rotting to core of the trunk from base to scion set), then if you have some insight into cultivars of American persimmon, hereÂs what IÂm considering:

I want to have 4 in total included in the set:

*1: ÂSzukis because it will (hopefully) produce male limbs & is highly recommended to me by Lee Reich;

IÂM CONCERNED that Jerry Lehman is right: that 1/3 of the time it comes out all female (1/3 supposedly male  which would be ok, since I need it as a pollinator more then anything)  if it comes out as a female, I canÂt see why it will not EVENTUALLY sport both male & female flowers since it has the same genetics as every other ÂSzukis  this is why I cannot understand gender in persimmons and I think few really do  I need to contact a botanist, I think.

*2: ÂMorris BurtonÂ: highly recommended to me by John Britain and most of the online articles, as well (being said to be the best tasting)

*3: ÂEarly GoldenÂ: highly recommended to me by Jerry Lehman as (one of the?) best tasting of the Claypool cultivars.

*4: Either the ÂMeader that I already have (which I may if I find male flowers on the above ÂSzukisÂ) or maybe IÂll get a Prok for size (again, only if the ÂSzukis sports male flowers); or if the ÂSzukis turns out all female, IÂll get a male persimmon to complete the quartet.

One other question: How large of a male D. viriginiana would I need to pollinate a 28Â all-female American persimmon? If it could be small, I could maintain a 10Â male just for the job.

Thanks,

Steve