I understand the sense of caution. Callbacks are not good and can eat away at your profits. To answer your question: I have used products supplied by flooring distributors, and have included products from Ardex, Mapei and Fritztile. They were all used with an appropriate primer to facilitate bonding to what they were placed over. Additives were included to make the product less-likely to break apart and powder. I especially like Ardex SDP (Self Drying Patch)...because the PSI (pounds per square inch) rating is lower than some other products. Self leveling formulations can achieve a very high PSI and can be very difficult to nail into, even with pneumatically assisted fastening tools. When I used a product with a high PSI, I sometimes would have to drill pilot holes and manually drive in hardened spiral flooring nails. I never had a floor patch crumble. I figured...if I used a good patch, and if the substrate was well-fastened and didn't move much, I believed the installation would be OK. I believe that you have to have significant movement to get a decent patch to fall apart under a finish product. I came to wood flooring out of a family business that specialized in resilient flooring materials, so I learned a lot about what you can and cannot do regarding floor patches and their application. I will say in closing here (for general consumption) , especially for the DIYer,... if you try to use calcium carbonate patches (usually white in color...and I won't mention brands) ...you will experience quick breakdown of the product, because they are fragile and will crumble easily. If it looks like plaster of paris, it is not a suitable floor filler or patch...my opinion.

ok, this is an area where I actually know something! I sold and spec'ed hardwood for a custom shop before my mommy-life. The information you are getting here is correct. Engineered floors will give you 1-2 refinishings ON A PERFECT SUBFLOOR. One of the issues that sometimes arises if there are inconsistanies in the height of your subfloor. Because there is thinner wood wearlayer (before you get to the engineered wood) there is the chance that you can damage the floor irreparably when you sand it. Now I only saw this saw this happen twice, once on a loft job and once in an older home. The loft was more subtle as it was over concrete, the old house more obvious as they were DIYers and picked engineered flooring to try to negate their irregular subfloor (they neglected to tell us that that was why they chose engineered, we would have talked them out of it had we seen the floor first) Neither of their claims to the manufacturer were fully settled because both times they did not follow the guidelines for floor prep. The loft job was also a materials only job for us with their GC laying the floors but he insisted he knew what he was doing. A good engineered floor will not be cheaper than most of your nail down options because the production costs are higher. Now having said that, GOOD engineered floors certainly have their place in places where you can't put traditional hardwood due to height restrictions or concrete subfloors. My boss had a great engineered floor in his basement and it survived a flood remarkably well (it was ash, Kahrs brand out of Scandinavia and one of the beefier engineered floors and one of the pioneers) My Grandmother also had a Kahrs floor in her ground suite condo and she LOVED it and I was impressed by the milling. I'm considering it for our basement because it's warmer and less echo-y than laminate There has been a lot of 2nd rate engineered flooring coming out of China and being labeled for all sorts of different companies. You should be able to tell an engineered sample because the layers are sandwiched together and the tongue will be a different wood than the top (showing) layer. Distressed finishes are usually more expensive because of the extra step in manufacturing to make it distressed. That is different than just getting a lower grade of hardwood like a rustic or tavern grade (in solid hardwood). Those grades have more character but they often don't carry a warranty and generally have a higher waste percentage. Another thing to think about---if you ever have to replace part of the floor, you will always be able to replicate 3/4" thick hardwood but engineered floors are more like tile, they change and get discontinued over the years. You could go pre-finished, save the hassle of site finishing but with the thicker wear-layer a 3/4" nail down floor offers. Only you will know if you can handle beveling or not. The changes in milling the last 10 years are huge. The bevel in your better milled wood is tiny. I like Canadian mills, Model or Mirage for pre-finished. Remember that if you ever re-finish, the bevel will disappear and you will, essentially have a site finished floor. One benefit that many people don't know about? With a prefinished tongue and grooved floor you can have a good installer cut out a single board (or more) from your floor if it gets damaged which is why we did a fair bit of pre-finished in new homes since inevitably we would get call-backs at move in to repair trade damage (@#$%^ plumbers and their big wrenches!). Prefinished hardwood deals the best with shinkage and expansion issues because the finish is on individual boards. Site finished floors are more labor intensive but the materials are cheaper (apples to apples). They are what many people consider the gold standard however there are more steps and you don't always know how it's going to look until it's done. There is more chance of finish contamination and trade damage during the rest of the building process. We refinished 100 year old floors. I loved the idea that there wasn't 4 generations of carpet and crap in the landfill. Definitely a forever floor and it can usually be re-sanded for all but the very worst water damage (think entire house under water for a few days) If you are going with a wide plank, keep in mind your species and humidity level (and your ability to keep humidity stable). The wider the plank (with 3/4" thick flooring), the more obvious shrinking and expanding will be. If you take a 2" wide board and it shrinks 2%, it isn't very noticeable. If you take a 6" wide board and it shrinks 2% the gaping will be more noticeable and in the case of a site finished floor *could* pull your finish apart. You'll need to find a flooring contractor in your area with lots of experience. Most of the best hardwood shops ONLY do hardwood. Beware of carpet shops and many of the big box stores in many instances. Make sure they are accredited with the NWFA (national wood flooring association) http://www.nwfa.org/member/ good luck!

If you are going to drop stuff on a wood floor and expect it not to dent, you should either get a harder wood, a textured wood that doesn't show dents as readily, or get something that's not wood. If you're getting a wood floor and expect it not to scratch, get something else. I've been doing Mirage for maybe 15 years and have no problems with the quality of their products. My major complaints would be that long ago they had quite a lot of short boards and their smooth products are so smooth that the look a bit fake and show dents and scratches more readily.

Teka makes great quality floors at affordable price. We have been selling this brand for years. However, it is always a good idea to order a box(14.75 sqft) before making your big purchase since you may not always see the characters and variations on European White Oak from a small sample. Good luck!