HI Jingscrivvens- I'm sorry you're having the same problem. Sadly, my solution was to replace the machine. Based on searches I had found online, I anticipated that fixing the problem would be exactly as you described-- have the repairman out, have him not really fix the problem and me be out $200+ dollars if not more since it wouldn't actually fix the problem permanently. Plus I had found just too many reports of 7 year old Bosch washers just outright dying. I found a new Bosch Vision 500 washer for $475 (after rebates) so I figured if I bought a new one I was breaking about even if I figured in 2 repairman visits at $200+ each. I bought Bosch again because while it was working, I really did like the Axxis and the new one was half the price of the one that broke. So if this one dies in 7 years I won't mind as much as when the Axxis broke. For what it's worth, the new Bosch washer works even better than the Axxis ever did. But it's only 3 months old. I can't comment on its longevity. Good luck. It's rotten to have a washer go wrong on you.

I'd think it impossible to make a 120V big machine without ATC. Guess some might handle a cold fill, but then you could end up with a 3+ hour cycle depending on fill temp and target temp. Internal heater or not, a 120V uber-sized machine without ATC is a non-starter. It needs ATC to get as close as possible and then use it's internal heater to give it that extra boost to the target temp (the exception to this rule would be the profile wash cycles available in machines from Sears and Bosch). The uber-machines get challenged when you ask for anything greater than warm (104F). For example on the W4840 when asking for a "Hot" (140F) wash in "Normal" cycle (internal heater not used) with the DHW source set at 131F, the fill temperature ended up being 109F. The washer isn't right next to the DHW tank, but it has a dedicated insulated PEX line that's about 35 ft long and you feel the brass fitting near the hose connection getting hot within 15 seconds of the hot water starting to flow. The problem is your starting with a washer drum and clothing sitting at room temp (68F) or colder (if you've just finished a previous load) and they don't fill with that much water. I've sensed in this case the machine only called on the hot line during the fill. The W4840 seems to have a very good ATC system that does the best it can, but it can't defy physics. If it could be made to fill with more water it would certainly get closer to the target. Checking an old spreadsheet put together once the other data I have shows: LG Steamwasher- Sanitary=158F, Hot=122F, Warm=104F, Cold=86F. Not sure if this source of data came from a user manual, service manual or phone conversation with presales support. The Whirlpool/Kenmore machines are largely undocumented with regard to temperatures. I've seen wildly different accounts regarding these machines and their temperatures the most bizzare being a person once writing that Whirlpool said a "warm" wash could in-fact be as low as 80F.

That's a shame about 110 for Heavy Duty. The 130 my Duet achieves with the heater is great. What a difference! Don't know exactly what your budget is, or if you are near a Costco warehouse, but some Costco warehouses have the Duet 9400 for $899 minus $200 mfg rebate, so $699, through 9/30. (You can check Costco.com to find which warehouses offer the rebate.) Try turning off the cold intake when selecting "hot" as the temp, like I did and described in your other thread. If this works, and it probably will, at least you know you can get 130-degree water going into the machine whenever you select "hot." Don't forget to turn the cold intake back on after the wash fill is complete.

cheryl E, I had two poor performing Fridgidaire Affinity front loaders for 12 years (not at the same time-2nd was a replacement for the first). They did not clean well. They also were prone to having an unappealing odor. I kept the door open when not being used. The only time the door was closed was when the washer was in use. The first washer did not have a 'clean washer' cycle. So I put a cup of bleach on my hot cycle with no laundry in it every two weeks to suffice. Still was not fresh and my towels became contaminated and smelled moldy. 2nd washer did have a 'clean washer' cycle that was hidden from the control panel. You had to press this button, while pressing that button and hold it in place for 30ish seconds then the clean washer cycle would activate. I did that every two weeks with a cup of bleach, then I upped my game and immediately did another clean washer cycle after the bleach one, but with a cup of vinegar. Still, not better. I kept at it though. I think there were two things that caused the issues. The first was that I was using liquid detergent exclusively and the second is that (IMO) they were simply not very good washing machines. I was using hot washes for my whites and lights and also using bleach in my whites loads and still, P.U. and dingy. The whites loads had detectable bleach odor as well which leads me to believe the washers did not rinse well. Moldy and bleach aroma on laundry--not fun. I used warm in my darks loads. I don't use cold wash cycles. Frequent cold washes can lead to funk build up, but I wasn't doing that. These washers, I think did not have dumbed down hot or warm cycles, but I don't know for certain. But I also don't think they had heaters to super heat the water. Super heated washes can help with laundry and washer cleanliness. Anyways, from what I've read on here (I found this group this year), the practices I used don't cause these negative issues in some (or is it many?) front loaders if they are good machines. Meaning the machines do their job well. From what I've read here, my hot washes and my bleach clean washer treatments should have abated the funk. They did not. At some point during my front loader sad and smelly times, I had read that if you use powder detergent and hot washes, along with occasional warm washes and keep up with the clean washer treatments, the problem should dissipate over time. The problem did not go away for me. I kept at it for two years. Using powder detergent was a nuisance for us at the time due to our laundry room configuration (much easier to store and use a tidy bottle than a messy box of powder when you have no place to put it), but I did not give up! I've seen videos of people with the same problem who did the clean washer treatments and all kinds of crud would release from the machine--to the point of it being visible on the video. I never had any visible crud release. I won't ever know if I didn't have crud or if the washer just never released it with the twice a month treatments since I FINALLY gave up and bought a top loading full fill washing machine. Everything is good now. I use powder detergent probably 90% of time now and I also use Borax in most loads. The Borax helps with odors for us--breaks down the body oils and sweat. My towels (the same ones that were funked out for 12 years) are fresh, bright, soft and fluffy now. Hurray! DH's white undershirts that are old and previously stinky and dingy are fantastic now. White, bright, fresh smelling. I did try Borax in my old front loaders a few times and didn't have any improvement, but I think I wasn't using enough. I use 1/2 cup in my current top loader and my daughter uses 1/4 cup in her front loader (with good results). Maybe give that a try? IMO, if you have a dud of a washer, you are more likely to have these negative issues even if you do everything right. Maybe if I was using powder detergent exclusively from the beginning, I wouldn't have had these frustrating issues since the funk would not have built up in the washer or the laundry in the first place. I'll never know for certain though. I've moved on. I hope something in here helps. Sorry to read things aren't going so great in your laundry room. I've been there and it's frustrating.