Not an answer, but I hope that the Bosch is a good choice since we have one in our garage waiting to be installed. We also have their DW, induction, and downdraft (island)... Hope they have no repair issues... Good luck!

I had already written on another thread that I just purchased the Samsung 328 so I'll paste some of that here: *********************************************************** A little over 5 years ago I bought an LG WM2277HW - and now it's kaput. The maintanence history was not extraordinary - the motor had to be replaced shortly after the manufacturer's warranty ran out, but to LG's credit it was replaced without charge. I noticed that the new LG's have a 10 year warranty on the motor (guess I wasn't the only one with a motor problem) But now my LG has blown electronics and bearings, estimated $1,000 to repair. In a matter of two days I've purchased a Samsung WF328AAW. It's a little bigger than my LG with a few other snazzy upgrades pertaining to Samsung. ($750 from Best Buy using a price match from Frys sale). The LGs still looked good but I just could not bring myself to buy another LG because my old one should have lasted longer. I figure the Samsung and LG are comperable, I just decided to give my business to Samsung this time. I most definitely prefer a FL because I like to wash bulky things like comforters, stuffed animals, throw rugs, sleeping bags, etc. My daughter has many household allergies so I like to wash all that stuff regularly and I used the extra-hot sanitary cycle on anything that could handle the heat (supposedly kills dust mites). I probably use the extra-hot sanitary cycle every-other-day and believe that that is why I've never had a problem with mildue/mold I need the onboard heater. I also liked the hand wash cycle on the LG, unfortunately the Samsung I bought doesn't have that cycle. I plan to keep the LG dryer - I don't care if the washer and dryer don't match, they're in the garage. The Samsung washer is scheduled for deliver on Monday - it will take me a couple days to catch up the laundry, when I get a good feel for the washer I will post my experience. ********************************************************** Houserookie - your model is fancier than mine: bigger capacity, steam, and more washing options. I had the salesperson put in the delivery order to be sure to leave the machine in the box and DO NOT remove the shipping bolts until the machine is almost in place. The salesperson said that the delivery guys already know that but I had her add it anyway. I really liked my LG, but it should have lasted longer. After reading this forum I'm beginning to wonder if I was using way too much detergent and I am to blame for its demise - I'm a little compulsive about cleaning products - I always put in the amount written on the pachage and maybe a little more. Then I read on this forum about people using one or two tablespoons detergent. This time I'll try to control myself and not over-do it. I used various HE detergents over the 5 years, they all seemed fine EXCEPT the Costco Kirkland liquid HE. That's when the LG motor broke down. Now I stay away from generic brands. Not long after that I noticed that Costco didn't carry it anymore. Maybe I'll try Charlie's soap. I've got a mountain of laundry building up for the delivery. Hope there isn't much of a learning curve.

My WF218 that I did the original testing on is still going strong (just did three loads on this fine Saturday afternoon). My routine has adapted as follows: -Tankless hot water heater set to 140F. One of the benefits of tankless is no wasted energy on standby losses with higher setting. I don't run higher for risk of scalding my toddler in the tub or shower. -I don't have a laundry sink, but just noting that if I had one, like Todd above I would prime the hot water to get the standing cold water out of the pipes. I do this for my kitchen dishwasher, which is quite far from the water heater. -I have the cold water shutoff throttled down. It seems like the Samsung's still pull some from the cold water supply when you are filling for warm or hot. Not sure if this really helps, but I do feel like throttling it down nets more from the hot supply. Like someone mentioned you can't shut off cold completely, plus you need it for the rinses anyway. -I try to wash in larger loads, as the larger loads fill more water, and thus the cold standing water in the pipes becomes diluted with more hot water. -Lastly, since we don't wash towels separately, my wife doesn't use the Towels mode, and so when I do the laundry, I've basically taken over Towels mode as my full Manual mode. It has full access to all temps and settings, and will remember my last used settings, which I'll run 80% of the time in H/C, to net about a 120F wash for most laundry including colors. A 130F or 140F option would definitely be nice, but I've been OK with the 120F washes.

Well, that's all good but what do these temps mean? Is 105F what ATC tries to achieve during a warm wash fill or during the main wash cycle. If 105 is the target fill temperature then it really means nothing in a low-fill front loader because the washer will probably move from wash to rinse before the heater has had a chance to bring the water back to the target temp. That's the thing with all these new washers: yeah, they might use the heater on every cycle but if the initial temp in the tub is too low, don't expect the heater to boost it up to 120F if the main wash is strictly time-controlled. Unless you get a Euro-brand like Miele, Bosch or ASKO or select a cycle like "Sanitary" or "Allergen", most washers will just move on with the cycle if the main wash time for the selected soil level has elapsed. It seems the only way to get a hotter wash is to select either Whites or Heavy Duty combined with the heaviest soil level plus options like Steam or Stain Treatment. Rather complicated from a Euro point of view... Alex