The local historic commission prefers that you maintain the old windows and add storm windows, even if they are aluminum triple track. We did this with original window sashes from 1840 and honestly they still look better than the modern windows that people chose to replace them with that are less than 20 years old.

A couple years ago we looked at an old mansion that had some wavy windows. The owner put storm windows inside of wavy windows instead of outside.. That trick saved her a lot of money.

The trick was just a trick. . They masked their problems by putting a bettter performing window in front of a failing one.

The worst windows in my house are the vinyl ones the previous owners decided to put in for ”resale”. The best ones are my old wavy windows with storms. Have you looked at window insert companies (Indow, for instance)? Maybe try one out. Don’t pull out your windows! There are also other good resources - Craftsman (Scott Sidler), John Leeke (Save America's Windows). It has been proven than a single paned window with storm is as efficient as double paned windows.

It has been proven by using misleading data. At best you will get about a u-value of about 0.36 with a low-E storm window on a single glazed wood window . Almost any vinyl window can achieve a 0.27 with many doing even better. Not sure why anyone would want to put an interior storm on a double hung window.

I think an old double hung window with storm can do a great job against the elements and prevent condensation in cold climates if the window has been weather stripped and the storm is functioning and installed correctly.

@toddinmn am i reading you right? you like a well installed exterior storm but are not impressed with an interior mounted storm window?

i have seen houses where the exterior storms are on year round. So does installing exterior storms properly make it more of a project to have them on and off with the seasons?

I like them better because they do remain on and you dont have remove and store them, they also proctect your prime windows from the elements and will greatly increase the amount time before rehabbing again, I like to stop the air infiltratiin before it enters the window frame. I think it looks better. Make sure to use a quality storm window as well. Here is old thread that might be helpful.

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5784110/any-recs-for-triple-track-storm-windows-for-historic-house

I have renovated a number of historic homes. The combination that worked best for me was to repair the existing windows and add exterior storm windows. It got rid of the condensation problem that you are experiencing. It will protect the existing windows. It was more cost effective than total replacement. It's more sympathetic to the original house. We left our storm windows on year around. We also added screens so that we could open them in the summer. We did hire a window cleaning company occasionally to remove them and clean all the windows and storm window inserts.

We also renovated an 1890 Victorian in Opelika AL so zone 8 I think. We had custom exterior storms 6’x 3’ made for every window. We left them on year round except for the two that we had custom screens made . It was amazing the immediate difference in heating and cooling . As others stated the original windows were preserved and the beauty of the wavy glass shown through. No more condensation . Definitely a cost effective solution.

I have a 1920s bungalow as well. When I bought it, some of the original windows were painted shut with lead paint and the wood trim was also painted. I’ve replaced all of those with vinyl windows that match the style of the original windows. They weren’t cheap, but they were a lot less than the bid for fixing the original windows and they have a lifetime warranty.

I put storm windows on some of the windows that were still in good condition (not painted). I love how the original windows look. But, if I could afford to replace all the windows I would. The vinyl windows are so much nicer for opening and closing and cleaning, and they are much better than the originals at keeping the cold Wisconsin winters out. They are also more forgiving with the changes in humidity throughout the year. My wooden ones can get really stubborn depending on the weather.

I love your post and your point. Not for or against but what just worked best for you.

I have been watching the Love It or List It Australia. It has opened my eyes to the fact that it might be a distinctly American thing to try to keep a house in the 'period' it was built. They call their vintage homes "Heritage Homes". Though the curb appeal is a distinct older style, the inside is updated for modern times.

My first contractor was so hard core preservation oriented. It blew my mind when the next contractor I spoke with said I could even consider changing the size of the windows if it would be more practical for furniture placement. Mind blown! That contractor preferred Marvin windows. So I am looking at the fiberglass options.

I agree with whomever said in this thread or another, that I would not put the dividers inbetween the glass. I look at everyone's windows driving throught town... replacement looks okay as long as they are the right type (ie. not a casement, picture, or slider replacing a single or double hung in the front of the house.) Also the trim color changes how much the window frames stand out if replacements.

Does the storm window keep the windows from having daily condensation when things get cool overnight?

YES. The condensation if any happens on the storm window, which then drains down to the sill and then out the weepholes. You dont want that happening on your interior wood windows because that will eventually rot the wood.

The higher end storm windows with e glass and good sealing still costs much less than replacing entire windows. Original early 1900s double hung windows are simple and repairable whereas modern replacement windows are not.

If sashes are too far gone then look into replacement sash systems which fit into the existing channels and keep existing trim intact, again cheaper and esthetically better looking VS yanking out the entire window + trim.

Look into upping attic insulation and air sealing gaps into the attic - this will stop the updraft effect which pulls in cold air from gaps from around windows and doors. All these things will do as much to help your comfort as new windows.

Last but not least - keep in mind that no new window salesman or contractor whose business is to install new windows will ever advise you to keep old ones, and any quotes you get from them to restore your old windows is going to be ridiculously high. Need to find handy person who specializes in old houses. Or DIY*- its not rocket science, just labor intensive.

My parents have a 1920s house with a 5-pane bow window in the living room. After getting a super high quote to replace the windows my dad templated each frame, got sheets of plexiglass cut to size and inserted them in front of each of the panes on the inside (I'm not sure exactly how they're installed/secured... because I've never really noticed them visually). Very inexpensive solution. Definitely a hack but has held up and done the job for a good 20 years.