Since we don't really know the growing conditions, it is hard to speculate on what is the problem (if any). I would suggest that instead of watering on a weekly schedule, water only when you need to. And that will be determined by the potting media and indoor conditions.

I have copied Al's (tapla) great instructions for using a "tell" to determine when to water. By far the best method to judge watering needs if not very familiar with both the plant and the media.

"Start using a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water and things will probably straighten out. It won't be over-night, but you should start to see a difference right away.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid
it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very
important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue."

straight down pix are hard to interpret ... can we see the whole plant .. including the pot...

does it get any usable light?? .. its probably just getting to light different than it had in teh greenhouse it was grown in ....

water a plant when it needs water.. as per above ... pot weight is a great indication when water weight is gone ...

nothing much happens to a new plant in 2 weeks ... which makes me wonder if you brought it home in cold weather???

otherwise.. it might just be acclimating to its new home ... learn to water properly ... give it time to settle down.. make sure its getting good light ... and dont freak out ...

ken

Thank you for the reply @ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5 I will upload a few more better photos, but yes I live in saudi so our cold weather is not freezing more like midish cold but pleasant cold wind, Im assuming its because It was not receiving enough light and I am only supposed to water it once every 2 weeks? Or was light the main factor? it was in a pretty shaded/dark ish space in my room I just moved it next to the window right now. The soil is always moist after such a long time but leaves start curling inwards so I get very confused but I'm pretty sure that means not enough light? but then how often should I water it? lots of apps say its supposed to be watered 2 times a week but I feel like that's gonna cause root rot and overwatering, is once every 2 weeks more suitable? my window is also always open so could it be because it doesn't like the cold wind? but its not that cold, like hardly starting to get cold. What would you think the actual cause is? here are the photos. Is it because the pot is too small?