Need help! Appliance garage deeper than upper cabinet
karrots911
2 years ago
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Mrs. S
2 years agoJAN MOYER
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
Any downside to hanging upper cabinets lower than 18'?
Comments (12)What they said. ^ I'd also say that it all depends on how many uppers you have and whether they form a solid bank around the perimeter of the entire space. If you're working with a kitchen designer, he can help ensure that your tops all work out the right way (staggered or even, depending on your planned look). My caveats, to be responsible about bucking the norm and why I did it: -- I have as much counter space without uppers as I do with, so I have plenty of room for freakishly tall appliances, should I ever need them. -- I cook a lot with very varied ingredients and tools and want things close at hand. -- My kitchen is fairly bright & sunny. I'm 5'8" or so and have never had a kitchen where I felt so comfortable working; friends who cook here tell me this all the time too. I think it's got a lot to do with the ease of these lowered uppers -- one of those small unnoticeable things like the tilt of a chair that you don't realize you'd been missing until you adjust it. I'll link a favorite article on kitchen ergonomics from Starcraft Builders, below: Here is a link that might be useful: mise-en-place: what we can learn from commercial kitchen design...See MoreCooktop wall - Need to decide on upper cabinet
Comments (12)I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. I'm with you about the cabinet not going down to the counter. I think I would miss that space. Linelle - you're right, This is a "working kitchen". I do like having access to my everyday items, without having to store them away. I can know I can make it look nice. And if I decide it's too busy for my knife block and utensils, I'll convert an existing drawer for those items. May - I do remember the last thread you commented in - (as far as this wall looking too busy) and that's why I was going for one cabinet that opened to the right. (until I found out that I couldn't do that due to warping.) I can reduce the cabinet with to 24 (in order to have one door that opens to the right); and just have a cabinet, no open shelving (in order to not have it look too busy) -- But then I will have a strip of tile between the hood and the cabinet - about 6 inches (so essentially the width of one subway tile). Since the hood it butt against the window, will it look strange if it's not that way on the cabinet side? Or I can just go back to the larger cabinet with two doors. FYI: I can't move the hood and cooktop to the right, b/c of my corner lazy susan. I'm already having a custom drawer bank made for under the cooktop so I can have a 36" cooktop -- and I've already stretched the budget enough. (I'm still waiting for the soapstone quote -- yikes!) Basically, I've decided to nix the cabinet from going all the way to counter. Now I just have to figure out the width, number of doors. I LOVE the idea of the open shelves next to the cabinet -- but am concerned about it looking too busy....See MoreHow to intall upper cabinets lower than standard 18"
Comments (45)Reading quickly through the comments, I don't see anyone mention about the 18" and building code. That 18" you mentioned the appliance specs state is also what is in the building code. It is possible that your code might read something different but generally they will be very similar. Around me, the Ontario Building Code stipulates (paraphrasing) the the distance from a cooking appliance up to "combustible" is to be 18" and that measurement must not be less within 18" from each side of the cooking appliance. Therefore outside of 18" you can bring the upper cabinets down to whatever distance off the counter you would like. Also, as your range is gas, that 18" is very important. It says "combustible" which means your light rail should not be under that 18". Please keep in mind when reading appliance specs, appliance specs should not supersede building codes. However, if they state something that is in line with a building code but actually goes even greater in distances, etc. plan with that. for example; if the code states minimum of 30" above the range, but your appliance spec states 36", plan with the 36". I would recommend you talk to a local building inspector about building codes in your area to know what is allowed and what isn't....See MoreStove Front Deeper than Cabinets?
Comments (15)Thank you everyone for your thoughts and comments. I think I knew deep down inside you're all right -- from a logical and practical perspective, you want the door to stick out from the cabinets! But when I see pictures like these from the Subzero-Wolf website, I keep thinking and hoping that someone can tell me they did this very thing and it was perfectly fine...! I will admit, it is more common to find a flush installation example than one where the stove is set back from the cabinet front. And a lot more common to find an example of the range door sticking out from the cabinets! But I have managed to find these examples on Houzz (all looking like they spent a lot of time thinking through the details), and I want to desperately believe that their gables have stayed beautifully white even with daily use of their ovens for years: So it looks like it's been done before, just not very frequently. I've posted questions on the Houzz examples I found, but those pictures were posted years ago and I am not sure if the designer/homeowner will respond. I'm hoping someone could come and tell me from their own experience how this has worked out over the years... And in response to your questions: @mama goose_gw nz60H: Gable is made from white painted maple. If I end up deciding to pull the range out, I will get my countertop fabricator to cut me an extra piece for the gap in the back :) Seems like the safest solution for sure, except I don't know if I want the range to stick out another 1-1/8" from the gables (1-1/8" is the thickness of the door), which sticks out 1" from the rest of the cabinets...! @dan1888: It's a bit too late to modifying the gables without a lot of delay and a lot of annoyance from everyone involved... :( Everyone will want to kill me, including my husband :) @friedajune and @M: It's funny that Wolf does not give any instruction about this in their installation manual! For example, I checked Thermador's installation manuals and they specify the maximum recess depth (thereby requiring the doors to stand further out than the cabinet fronts). In the picture with the damage, it looks like some excess heat came out of the third vent on the side of the door, where the metal is darkened. Wolf's door is solid on the sides and does not have any vents. In any event, I totally understand the physics of heat needing to escape from the oven when you open the door -- though I suppose most of it goes upwards and not sideways. The question remains, how much does it go sideways on a Wolf range, and is it enough to ruin white painted maple? Hmm... @Sophie Wheeler: That's actually not a picture of my stove. It's just an example I found to illustrate what I was talking about. I took a very close look at that picture, and they seemed to have made the gables out of stone (you can see some faint veining on the right side). If I could turn back time, I think I would have had my counter top fabricator make the gables for me out of a white quartz that matched my cabinets... But alas it is too late, unless I want to hold up construction for several weeks! And honestly speaking, I'm not sure if I have room in my budget for mitered quartz gables, though I am really loving the sound of that... :)...See Morearcy_gw
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
2 years agoKate
2 years agokarrots911
2 years agoUser
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoMrs. S
2 years agoBuehl
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agokarrots911
2 years agokarrots911
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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