Actually I don't have all that much space to cover... the room is small, 9x10, and because of doorway access issues I can only really install 6 ft of bookshelves, in other words three 24" wide units if we were talking in Ikea-speak, LOL. The units would essentially go floor-to-ceiling (8 ft ceiling) and have a total of at least six 2-foot-wide shelves per unit. Thus, 12 feet of usable book shelves per unit, x 3 units = 36 feet of shelves for books. I currently have enough books to cover 20 of those 36 available feet, and since I don't plan to stop buying books in the forseeable future, I need at least 20 feet of shelving to house my current 'stock' plus more for future purchases. I don't do e-books, LOL. The bookcases were originally going to go along both 10-foot walls but then I realized recently that something else needs to go along one of those walls instead *and* I need to leave at least 3 ft clear near the doorway on the remaining 10 ft wall for handicap access. One of the 9-foot walls has heating baseboard along its entire length, plus a window, so that one's no good; the other 9-foot wall is the room's doorway plus a closet whose trapdoor is the only access to the attic. I went to an unfinished furniture store in my area and was surprised that the cost of them (after being stained or painted) wasn't too far from already-finished furniture. You don't want to put a paintbrush in my hand, LOL! a history of disaster. Unfortunately I don't have access to any kind of vehicle that can be used to pick up large items, so would need to rent a van or something similar from UHaul, Budget, etc etc and then (and this is the hardest part!) find someone to help load and unload it when I need them to do it, rather than when they have the spare time to do it. I'm lucky if I can get "help" if I give at least a week's notice, 'subject to cancellation at the last minute' (which happens at least 50% of the time, LOL). :-(

In general, beds are made to be taken apart and put back together. People move, and most beds won't fit through a doorway fully assembled. I can't speak for PB beds in particular, but most beds should handle being taken apart and put back together just fine. You might want to check with PB to see if they have assembly instructions available, if you think putting the bed back together might be tricky. Or ask the seller if you can be there when it is being taken apart, so that you will know how to put it back together again.

Hi PondNovice The 4500 for me has been ok so far. This is my 3rd summer and it has seen 2 winters. I hope I will not bombard you with info, but here goes.... Definely use pond water to clean the sponges as it reduces any determintal affect on the good bacteria within the filter. The fresh tap water you have been using will contain chlorine which can kill the friendly bacteria. The bacteria forms a 'biofilm' or slimely coating on the plastic shapes right at the bottom of the filter below the sponges. Don't clean these bits of plastic, I think mine are blue. This will ensure the levels of toxic nitrites (given off as waste from fish) are converted to nitrates which the plants use as fertilizer. I might have got the -ites and -ates round the wrong way! long time since A-level biology! For maintence basicly buy a new full set of sponges every year ~£13-15, they clog up quicker the older they get. BE CAREFUL: There are 2 versions of bioforce 4500, they revised the model design slightly around 2001-2. The versions have different sponges with respect to the hole in the middle of them. I think the later version has a bigger hole to accomodate the UV section. Also, replce the UV light bulb every year. They only have a 12 month useful output. Keep the quartz housing clean hrough the summer as only 60% of the UV gets through a clean quartz so a coating of algea makes it almost not worth having it on. BE CAREFUL when changing the UV light bulb. My unit developed a leak in March when I changed mine. See my last post on this thread. The only reason I noticed I had a leak into the electrical wiring of the UV unit was the RCD device light. Which was off. I tried powering up but it kept flicking off. DEFINELY have a RCD for both the UV light and the pump or anything electrical that is in contact with the pond water. I could go on for ages. Please ask if anything is not clear. May the force be with you. Groan Mark

Several minor design errors have been made throughout our construction process; however, none have resulted in a flaw this visible/significant. While we would have appreciated a little more guidance during the design/selections process, we were the ones ultimately responsible for making several design choices that we now consider "errors" (ex: poor color selection for colored/stamped concrete patio, application of tile of shower ceiling tile in linear fashion as opposed to on-point, etc.). Because of the massive expense required to fix these "errors", we chose to do nothing and now must learn to live with these errors. Had the fix been less expensive, we certainly would have changed them. I therefore am not certain that I see the logic espoused by Lyndee Lee. Replacing the bookcase, while certainly not inexpensive, is much less costly than ripping out and redoing a concrete patio or ceiling shower tile. As the responsibility of this error rests solely on the shoulders of the builder and/or millwork provider, I would think they are contractually obligated to fix their error. Holly: I like the niche idea not divided as shown in your first photo. We do plan on installing crown where the bookcases interface with the ceiling/recess. Some sort of recessed can lighting in the ceiling would also be nice, although I am not sure if this is still possible (rough electrical and drywall have already been completed). We have not asked our super how we are compensated for "design errors." I would be curious as to how this conversation would work and don't recall any specific language regarding such errors in our contract.