Hi crayphish, I'm always a bit concerned when people talk about spraying with soap or botanical sprays like garlic or capsicum 'just in case'. The thing is, insecticidal soap and most botanical sprays don't distinguish between pests and the 'good' insects that control them. Even more unfortunately, in a lot of cases the 'good' insects are MORE susceptible to pesticides than the pests. I know there are some parasitic wasps (tiny wasps that lay their eggs in other insects, often the ones we consider pests, like aphids, whiteflies etc) - Aphidius and Encarsia species spring to mind - that are affected by insecticidal soap. The soap spray won't affect the leafminers, that's for sure, unless it has some extra property because of the mintiness, because the adult leafminer flies are long gone and the leafminer larvae are snug in their little burrow. I wonder if the leafminers even requires any action. It looks like a Liriomyza species, probably L. trifolii, which is considered a pest in commercial flower and celery crops, but fruiting crops like beans, tomatoes, cukes etc are rarely bothered. If you leave well enough alone the native parasitic wasps, Diglyphus species and the like, will probably come along and provide reasonable control for you. A bit of leaf damage won't hurt your plants and unless it's severe, it shouldn't affect yields either. Tracey

They make a mess of my flowers in fall but do not bother the plant. Their favorite plant in my yard are yellow mums. They destroy the flowers in a very short time.

Currant is a plant that as a landscape shrub has a limited use. As you've discovered, it's prone to some foliar problems, and there are a couple of insect issues that can arise. However, these are merely cosmetic blemishes, merely making the plant not look as great as you'd like it to. Something capable of outright killing this plant? while those problems do exist (as they do for just about anything alive), they are rare. When it comes to pruning currant, as a hedge, as they were planted before they were yours, they are quite forgiving. Also, these are established plants...so first, they are forgiving in nature when it comes to pruning (meaning, go ahead, do your worst...the only thing you have to lose is something you don't like), they are also plants that have an energy reserve in that root system. So yeah, go head, do your worst...uhm, best. You'll learn something, and you'll have done it yourself. The whole first year, second year, third year pruning thing is a little different than what you are looking to do. That's for size reduction but still keeping the plant is good shape. also, pruning for fruit production isn't really what you are looking to do. I commend you for doing some background in how to prune. Now I want you to forget it, don't worry about knowing everything before you do anything, and to in part, learn by doing. A little studying is good, a little practical experience is good...then after a little hands on, go back and read again...you'll see things with an entirely new understanding.

JUNIPER (shimpaku chinensis or Shimpaku itoigawa) Shimpaku chinensis is also known as the Chinese Juniper, while the shimpaku itoigawa is from Japan. Both are from the same family of Juniper and make an excellent choice for bonsai. The Shimpaku is very hardy, long-lived, and tolerates many adverse conditions. The longer prostrate branches tend to intertwine. The leaves are arranged in decussate whorls of three; all the leaves are juvenile form and needle-like with two white stomatal bands on the inner face. The Shimpaku has attractive year round foliage and its dark green needles are soft to the touch. It is dioecious, producing cones of only one sex on each plant. Its graceful canopy and impressive bark make the Shimpaku an outstanding bonsai for any collection. How To Take Proper Care Of Your Bonsai Tree Bonsai is the reproduction of natural tree forms in miniature. This art form has its origin in Japan and China where it has been practiced for centuries. Bonsai are grown in pots and are totally dependent on you for their care. With proper care, your bonsai will remain healthy, beautiful and miniature for many years to come. Since your bonsai is a living miniature tree, it will increase in beauty as it matures through the years. The instructions below are just the basics and, therefore, we recommend that you purchase one of the many fine books available on the subject. PLACEMENT A Juniper Bonsai is a living miniature tree and not a house plant; therefore, your bonsai must be maintained in a cool/cold environment during the winter season. As a guide, around Thanksgiving Day it is time to prepare your Bonsai for its winter dormancy period which should last approximately three (3) months. This can be accomplished in several ways. One method is to bury your tree in the ground (preferably without the pot) up to the rim of the container and then mulch up to the first branch. It is best to choose a location that is protected from wind and sun, but not rain or snow. A second method which is also common is to place your tree(s) in an unheated garage or shed. During this time, your tree does not require light because it is in a dormant state; however, it will require watering approximately every two weeks. Throughout the spring, summer and fall your Bonsai should be placed outside, such as on a patio, balcony, terrace, or in a garden. Once outside, your Bonsai should be positioned where it will receive sufficient sun – morning sun and afternoon shade is best. A Bonsai can be viewed best when it is placed approximately three to four feet high (eye level), such as on a table, wall or bench. A Bonsai can and should be brought into the house on special occasions and displayed in a prominent place. Your Bonsai should not remain inside for more than a few days at a time, as the atmosphere is detrimental to the health of your tree. WATERING The watering of your Bonsai must never be neglected. Apply water when the soil appears dry -- never allow the soil to become completely dry. If your Bonsai is receiving full sun, it may be necessary to water once a day. This schedule may vary with the size pot, type of soil and type of Bonsai tree you own. Evaluate each tree's water requirements and adjust your watering schedule to accommodate it. It is a good idea to use a moisture meter until you get to know the requirements of your Bonsai tree. Watering should be done with a watering can or hose attachment which should dispense the water in a soft enough manner as not to disturb the soil. Water should be applied until it begins running out of the holes in the bottom of your pot. A good rain is usually a sufficient watering. HUMIDITY During the cold months, when your bonsai is inside, we recommend placing it in a shallow tray filled with a layer of gravel with water added. This provides extra moisture around the tree as the water evaporates and reduces the amount of moisture lost to modern heating systems. FERTILIZING Fertilizing is also necessary if your bonsai is to remain healthy and beautiful. Since your bonsai is growing in such a small amount of soil it is necessary to replenish the soil's supply of nutrients periodically. Any general-purpose liquid fertilizer will do fine and is available at most garden centers. We suggest that fertilizers be used at half their recommended strength. Fertilizer should be applied at least once a month except during winter. Your bonsai will also respond well to foliar feeding, with a water-soluble fertilizer applied every other month as a spray. TRAINING This brief explanation of basic care does not cover training. Training deals with the art of bonsai and should be thoroughly understood before undertaking -- or left to a professional. However, most of the true bonsai trees you find have already been through their training period, thus requiring only periodic trimming and pinching to remain miniature. TRIMMING & PINCHING Trimming and pinching keep your tree miniature. Pinch and trim back the new growth to the farthest safe point. Never should all of the new growth be removed. A little should be left to sustain the health of the tree. Tropical and sub-tropical trees used for bonsai will require periodic pinching and trimming throughout the year. Since different trees grow at different rates, it is necessary to evaluate each tree’s rate of growth and adjust your trimming and pinching to accommodate it. REPOTTING Repotting must be performed periodically on all bonsai when their root system has filled the pot. The reasons for repotting are to supply your tree with fresh soil, and to encourage a more compact root system. As a rule, most deciduous trees require repotting every two or three years, while evergreens only need to be repotted every four or five years. Since trees grow at different rates, this schedule will not always hold true, therefore, you should examine your tree's root system each year to determine if it has become pot-bound. In most cases, the potting process is easy and safe if performed properly and at the right time of the year. Repotting should be done in mid-summer. The tree, along with all of its soil, should be removed from the pot. The outer and bottom most fourth of the tree's root mass should be removed. This is done by raking the soil away, then pruning back the roots. In most cases, it is not good to prune back more than one fourth of the tree's root mass. After this, the tree can be placed back in its original pot or into another. The pot should have screen placed over the drainage holes. Then a thin layer of small gravel is placed in the bottom of the pot for drainage purposes. On top of this gravel is placed the new fresh soil. Place a layer of well-draining soil which is sufficient enough to elevate the tree to its previous height in the pot. After placing the tree back in the pot, the area left vacant by the pruned root mass should be filled in with fresh soil. This fresh soil should be worked in around and under the root mass in such a manner as to avoid leaving any air pockets. After repotting, your bonsai should be thoroughly watered. This can be achieved by submerging the entire pot in a tub of water. Moss or other ground covers can be used to cover the surface of the pot to help prevent soil erosion when watering. INSECTS & DISEASES Since your bonsai is a tree in miniature, it can be treated for insects and diseases the same as any other tree. If you discover any insects or diseases, visit our website where you will be able to obtain the necessary products to eliminate the problem.