The burners are a little different but have not cooked on a Wolf AG so can't compare. We have a place we can go close to my house and actually cook on Wolf ranges. Do you have anything like that? Some think the simmer runs a little higher with the AG burners, but I guess you could always use a simmer plate. The BTUs listed do not tell the whole story and the simmer will depend on the pan-what it is made of and size. I would prefer the semi open burner in some ways. The flame may be a little more straight up but it would be nice to look at and see for yourself. As far as the oven goes, with the DF, the biggest advantage is being able to direct the heat. The roast mode brings more heat from the top to brown and it great for roasted chickens etc. The baking mode brings the heat from the bottom which I like for pies and quiches to get the bottom crust nice and done. There is also a convection setting that uses the element around the convection fans. I haven't used that as much. I am not sold on the necessity of that third element. Maybe I will find something that I like to use it for. on the other hand The AG has the infrared broiler which is great for steaks but doesn't cover as much area I think some have said. I mostly use my broiler to brown the tops of something I made or sheets of appetizers so I like the element to cover a large area. I do my steaks either in a cast iron skillet inside or grill outside. Some feel that the AG is better to bake bread because it is a moister heat. You can always buy a thermometer with a probe that beeps when it comes to temp, and some feel this is a better way to go because it is much cheaper to replace it than the one that comes with the oven. It may help to read the instruction manual online and compare the two in that way

I own a 36" Wolf DF and am one with porcelain issues. I love the burners with a great low heat and the oven is wonderful. I am looking to replace it though. After dickering with Wolf they have agreed to provide the part and $350 in labor. The problem is the labor starts at $800+ because they don't know what they will find and the time may vary depending on how fast the guys work. They will only guarantee the part one year. They used to replace ovens with this problem even when 4+ years old for a small fee. Most posters here and elsewhere have had more than one replacement and the replacements don't last as long as the one before. I don't want to risk inhaling or ingesting tiny glass shards when the liner starts to degrade. "I thought electric was a more consistent, and therefore better, option for baking/roasting? " "gas is better for roasting because of the moist heat. " Consistency has nothing to do with gas or electric, but bulk for thermal stabilization (providing radiant heat), air movement within the oven chamber(providing convective heat), placement of burners and accuracy of thermostat. Some companies seek to improve this by adding among other things,more insulation, more bulk, fan(s), a third and possibly a fourth element with computerized controls and and a thermostat with a narrower variance from the set temperature. When looking at humidity in an oven, you have to look past the immediate heat source and look at what happens with the oven and the cooking process. In general a gas oven has more ventilation through the oven chamber so the water that is a product of combustion is vented out along with more heat, so the heat is drier. Electric ovens are not ventilated as much so hold moisture from cooking. The moisture in the electric oven is beneficial the first half of baking breads and cakes because it allows the dough/batter to expand a little more, promotes starch gelatinization and allows better heat penetration of what you are baking. "Dry" is better the second half of the baking process. People seem to pay more attention and it makes more difference for bread. There are many ways people use steam for bread. "Dry" heat from a gas range or using the convection mode on an electric stove gives crispiness to a roast and may be better for some cookies, pies etc. External moisture has nothing to do with internal moisture of a roast. The amount of internal moisture is due to the temperature of the meat. Plus you have to pay a huge premium for dual fuel when in fact it does not cost the manufacture a lot more to make. You pay a premium for the additional elements, fans and the computers to make them run correctly. It would be up to the individual to decide what is huge and if it is worth it. They have fantastic 23k btu open burners with very even heat. No need for high maintenance tin lined French copper pots. What the heck does this mean??? If you have a burner with a flame pattern of 5-6 inches wide, if you use anything wider than 8 inches, you will benefit from a pan that has good heat conduction. Best is heavy gauge copper, lined in tin or stainless. Not everyone polishes. You can also get plied cookware with copper that goes in the dishwasher. Cheaper is aluminum available in several configurations including plied cookware. This is a very biased statement from a sealed burner owner that thinks dual stacking makes any meaningful difference. The purpose of dual stacked burners is to provide two separate burners each with its own range of heat. You would have to look at the range of BTU output for each burner to see the benefit. Rating by temperature is meaningless. I might have a BTU output of 325 and the temperature of what I am cooking could be 190 or 80 depending on the pan and what I am cooking. CC's 23k btu burners are capable of 145 degree simmer which is more than reasonable. Other than raw foodist, virtually no one needs or can use Wolf's 100 degree simmers. This is unbelievably presumptuous to pontificate about what other people should or should not find useful in their kitchen. I use low heat daily for -cooking a whole dinner or pot of soup in a LeCreuset pot using minimal energy -serving off the range, no worries about any scorching pastas, mashed potatoes etc -a short term sous-vide -anything that used to require a double boiler A few weeks ago I was making a syrup that had to be held hot while another step in the recipe was completed and even with the low simmer, it would not stop boiling. I could have "used" even lower heat. There is a whole big world of people that cook in many different ways. Wolf's sealed burners will not give you a decent stir-fry or Pittsburg steak while the CC will. Cooking is about the temperature of the cooking surface. The source of heat is just one component of this. A cook who understands how the properties of cookware work as well as how what you are cooking comes into play will be able to combine these things to come up with the right temps for the cooking surface on both high and low end. You can find blogs where cooks preheat cast iron to extremely high temps by low powered burners to cook pizza. Some restaurants cook a steak on a rock table side with no flame underneath. You just need to understand how to accumulate heat in your cooking surface. How are those pictures representative of the burners referenced? The CC is way off. I have cooked on many different open and sealed burners over 50 years. I agree with weissman that ease of cleaning burners depends on the build and also has a very subjective component. I think you have to avoid generalizations. Even the black enamel on the Dacor range we had was much more difficult to clean than the black on our current Wolf. This, an observation from my husband.

I'm not sure of the definition of an infrared broiler, as opposed to a regular electric broiler. Mine has two elements...one for small batches, and one for larger. I imagine though, that you might be able to get a gas broiler in a dual fuel range...it would make sense. Since I have wall ovens, there is no gas source right there in the unit. I think perhaps I gave my broiler not enough credit, saying that it was quite tepid. I often preheat it for a while and then I can get some good results, but sometimes kabobs will overcook before they brown, if you know what I mean. I've had mine for 3 years, no service calls.

^Nobody here understands either. They have been selling this faulty enamel for years in both dual fuel ranges and wallovens. The interiors have cracked even on ovens where the owner did not use the self clean cycle. The dual fuel range that intrigues me most is the Capital Connoisseurian because of the powerful open burners but there is very little feedback on that yet. I don't have any recommendations for other dual fuel ranges due to extremely mixed feedback. This post was edited by hvtech42 on Tue, Sep 2, 14 at 9:20