yep, I can't believe he was just going to throw this away. But then he is the one that I got old wagon wheels from(he was gonna throw them away too). And yes it was the whole fountain, base and everything. They were my old neighbor's stuff that they lefy when they moved. This guy isn't in to garden junk, so he probably thinks I'm a bit eccentric! To each his own I say....

16 oz 110 copper sheet scraps stamped with a pin punch and wired on with 12 gauge electric wire scraps. Turns brown, then green. 110 copper is very malleable, 16 oz is right thickness.

Oh Jean, you're right, I didn't say about the Asiatics, did I? :) I didn't get any. Didn't like any they had and just as Rita said, they were too expensive. Thought I could do better online. I really would have thought this place would have their dls WAY overpriced (like everything else there), but most of the stuff I got was $7!!! The most I paid was $15 (for Ed Brown and Big Smile). That's why I went a little beserk, I guess. :) Rita, yes, my plans just did expand a little. LOL These will all be together in a new area that wasn't going to be dls, but hey, I'm flexible. :D

Hi everyone. Villain Rose – Although I have been growing bromeliad seed for several years now, I have never grown seeds from Tillandsias, but from what I’m told they are easy to grow but with one big drawback; they are much slower than other types of bromeliads. Callistemon trees, especially the rough bark types seem to be the tree of choice here in Australia for growing Tillandsia seed. However I don’t see why any other rough barked tree wouldn’t do the job just as well as long as it isn’t a tree that sheds bark annually. For anyone not having a suitable type of tree to sow their seed on, a very successful alternative method is to make a light timber frame out of approx. 1” x 1” timber or similar. Any timber will do as long as it isn’t CCA treated, as the copper in the CCA treatment is fatal to bromeliads. Light timber frame made from 1” x 1” timber or similar. Once the frame is made, stretch a piece of plastic fly screen or shade cloth across the frame and fasten it to the timber with staples or small flat headed nails. Shade cloth stapled in place before surplus shade cloth is trimmed off Spread the seed over the fly screen or shade cloth taking care to separate it as much as possible and then use a hand sprayer to spray water on the seed which will help it to adhere to the screen mesh. After three weeks or so the seed will swell and green up before the leaves begin to show. Close-up of seed three weeks after sowing Locate the frame somewhere out of the wind in good light but not direct sun and mist spray the seeds several times a day. A good idea is to leave a water filled hand sprayer somewhere near the seed and spray them each time you walk past them. I know of several “brom friends” who have used this method successfully and I think it’s definitely worth trying. Just remember though, that all seed doesn’t necessarily germinate, it may be too old or it may not be fertile. Thanks to my friend Conrad Coetsee who allowed me to use his photographs All the best, Nev.