OK...here's the thing. For counter-height seating, you need a 15" overhang. Even if you scrimp on overhang people will still take up the same amount of space so trying to shave off a few inches of the overhang doesn't really help. With the smaller overhang, people just don't sit as close to the counter edge OR they sit sideways (not comfortable for any length of time). Then you need approx 5' from the edge of that 15" overhang to the table. Even then it'd be a tight squeeze to get by if people are seated in both places. [BTW...your children may be small now, but they will grow rapidly! So, if you're thinking a smaller than recommended overhang will work b/c they're small...don't. Always plan for teens/adults when planning something as permanent as a peninsula.] Has the design already been finalized? Or can changes still be made? If so, to the exterior as well? I'm asking b/c if you could move the front door down so the "Covered Porch" is flush w/the garage you could gain 4 feet. I would then move everything on that side of the house from the stairs to the front door, down that same amount. That would give you another 4' for the Kitchen + Table area. You would then have just enough space for an overhang. This would have the added advantage of adding more space to the MBR and/or Laundry & WIC. One of things I regret not doing when we built 14 years ago is making our porch flush w/the garage. We could have either had a deeper porch (8' now) or added 4' to the depth of the house...more useful. Another idea is to switch the FR & DR. You might be able to expand the kitchen into the table area and use the DR for all meals since it will be a lot closer to the kitchen. You could then have an island for casual/social seating. The DR would also be a little longer so you could fit a table in there more easily than the current location (that's a pretty small DR). Sample dimensions could be DR: 16'2" x 12'8" & FR: 16'2" x 17' (In the FR, put the FP & windows on the right wall...) ++++++++++++++++ Oh, and I agree with PeytonRoad, the MBA door swing should be against the shower, not the sinks. To avoid it altogether, consider making the door a pocket door, sliding from the sink side of the MBA. This will mean no recessed medicine cabinet in that wall, but I think it's a good compromise. We have a similar MBA...but our tub & shower are switched. The door swings against the tub. We're now thinking about remodeling our MBA and one of the first changes we plan is to get rid of the recessed medicine cabinet and install a pocket door. I think it will make a big difference in the "feel" of our narrow bathroom. What we don't have is the nice corner for a tub...there's a bedroom on the other side of our bathroom wall. Have you thought about putting in another window by the tub...a window on the right wall so you get a "corner window" effect?

I just wanted to share some install photos. We just finished a kitchen of One Sweet Talker. I love how it looks and I love the wider and longer planks. The customer service was again top notch. However, I hate that I have to say this but I feel like I need to share because I wish I'd known. This is our second house with Supercore and we love the company. We just finished the install Thurs. Sunday we had guests over. One of them must have had a rock stuck in their shoe or something. There's now a huge area of scratching. Almost a foot long. It's so disappointing. And I know that maybe other brands would be similar, but it just seems so soon and just under normal wear. 😕 I'll attach pictures in another comment to show how well they show up on this color.

$6/sf should include the price of product as well as the cost of labor. That means (roughly) half the price is the product and the other half is the install. That's about right for a click together floor. A glue down floor can be a little bit more (labor price goes up) because of the extra time it takes and the adhesive required. The professional flooring installers who have a reputation to maintain, prefer glue down....because it has few "call backs". That means there are fewer complaints by the homeowner. Fewer complaints means better homeowner satisfaction. A glue down vinyl plank SHOULD have "real" plywood - not OSB; not fibre board - as the substrate it is glued to. That can increase the material costs for the build (it depends on what the builder had in mind when s/he specified underlayment for the home (many spec. OSB or fiber board because it saves them THOUSANDS of dollars). So the "professional" consensus is: glue down vinyl is the better product. It will cost you more in labor costs and probably material costs for subfloors but it has fewer complaints (when installed properly). There are some "better" professionals who won't TOUCH floating vinyl....they won't risk their reputations on a "bad" click system (hard to tell if the system is bad or not...until it fails a few months later).

OK...AC ratings are only for laminates. That means vinyl doesn't even need to join the race. The same "concept" (toughness of the finish) for vinyl is the wear layer (ie. 20mil). For vinyl floors, that's what you work with for "toughness" and scratch resistance. https://www.hoskinghardwood.com/Department/Laminate-Floors/Laminate-Floor-AC-Ratings.aspx?dId=9&pageId=67 So....that means the toughest of the tough is the laminate (re: your options). The AC3 rating is considered good enough for HEAVY residential traffic (that's not very common) or MODERATE commercial traffic (think exclusive women's clothing retailer....not Walmart). That's pretty darn good. But Uh-oh. You want it to go in the kitchen. That laminate is out for that space. Oops. Now we start playing with the vinyl options: the 20mil wear layer is BETTER than 12mil. And 40mil is better than 20mil. So the TOUGHNESS you need for the AREAS you need it in have been established. Next question: Do you need the "heat stability"? Is your home open to sunlight through windows? That means, do you have "pools of sunlight" hitting any part of your floor during ANYTIME of the day? (most people have to deal with this...but not all) If so, you will need to know HOW HOT those spots GET! The regular vinyls (as in AduraMax) have upper limits of 85F. Oooh nooo. A pool of sunlight sitting on a floor (with older windows or low UV blocking windows) can heat past 100F. In a situation like that AduraMax will have MASSIVE issues. At that point, the Apex is a better option. So....at this point in your investigations, it is time to get out a thermometer (indoor/outdoor at Home Depot = $15) and start finding those sunny spots in your home and MEASURING the temperatures (and writing them down to keep track of it all). To me, this is the ACID TEST that will determine which vinyl to work with - toughness of finish be damned.