what is a good complement to a flagstone patio?
Joe Webb
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (31)
Joe Webb
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Needing some info/help re: flagstone patio
Comments (2)Hi OkLady! I had a flagstone patio installed last spring, so might be able to help a little. The stones my landscaper used weren't as thick as what you're using, but I wouldn't think that would interfere with the process. The first thing you need to do is make sure the ground itself is level~you may have to bring in extra dirt. When this has been accomplished, compact the dirt with a compacting tool(or stomping),making sure it's well compacted. Next is the base of sand, again well compacted. If you do not level and compact, the stones will be uneven, and could possibly crack when stepped on, although the thinner the stone, the more chance of this happening. You may need to add/subtract sand as each stone varies in thickness, so put your level on each stone. When you've completed all these steps it's time for the cement, which I would recommend, rather than leaving in sand alone. I have a pathway coming off my patio which I left this way, and now I'm regretting it. Weeds, as well as shifting stones is a pain in the butt! I'll be getting it cemented!! I had my patio done in a semi-circle rather than a rectangle/square. Just something you may think about. Good luck!!! ;o)...See MoreHelp on dry set bed for flagstone patio
Comments (1)Let's start by talking about just what 'gravel' is. The term seems to find a variety of definitions around the country, so before we talk about your issue, it might be useful to let you know what 'gravel' is around here in New England, then you can decide is what you have is similar. 'Gravel' is a well graded, hard, durable, and natural sand and gravel, containing no organic (loamy) soils. It's free draining, which means water will readily pass through it. And it has a natural moisture content that lends to it's ability to be compacted to a very dense and hard consistency. Now, if that's what your dealing with, what does that mean to you? It means that if what you excavated from the hole is more organic, loamy, or silty in nature, and not completely mineral soils (like gravel), then you need something else to use as a base, and dispose of that which you 'dug out'. If what you've purchased is similar to the description above, having no stones larger than an a half inch or so, then it will make an acceptable base for your patio. The caveat here is that whatever you use, it needs to be both free-draining, and it needs to be very well compacted, preferably using a vibratory plate compactor, so that when you walk on it, pretty much nothing moves. Sand, by itself, as a base material, does not lend itself to deep compacted layers. Look at the stuff closely, and you will see that the particles are rather rounded in nature, and even thought the particles are small, they will react to compaction much like marbles, and ultimately they can move. In the construction industry, gravel, while capable of being readily compacted to an acceptable base, isn't what the pros will lean towards due to the inclusion of stones up to and including an inch and a half or so, and they don't want to spend the time picking them out. So, what does the industry use? More often than not, and depending on location, paver and bluestone bases are contructed of either crushed gravel, or crushed stone, or what is called crusher-run. Crushed gravel is natural gravel that has been 'processed' to eliminate stones that are too large by crushing them, and yet not requiring a sieve to pick them out of the material. Crushed stone is just that, a by-product of a quarrying operation that is crushed and then processed through a series of sieves to separate the particles by size, eliminating any and all fine particles, and creating uniformly graded products from 1/4" crushed stone up to 6" crushed stone. Crusher-run is another by-product of a quarrying operation, where stone is crushed and processed only to insure that no particle is larger than about one inch or so, with everything after the crushing operation left in the mix. When crushed stone is used, it is on the smaller end, 1/2" or so. Beyond that, compaction isn't an option. Crushed gravel and crusher-run can be more densely compacted as the particles within are all pretty much angular, and will fill just about all available space within the layer when compacted by machine. Sand and stone dust are used as a setting bed, no more than 1" to 2" thick, compacted, and then screeded to level. Bluestone, flagstone, or pavers are set on top of that. The dust and the sand can be worked by hand within the area of each stone in order to achieve a level final paver or stone surface. In your case, if you already have the gravel, it's free of large stones, you can likely use it, compact it, and place a layer of sand or dust on top as the setting bed. The keys really are....free-draining, free of large stones, and very well compacted. The material choice to fit that bill has a number of choices....See MoreNeed help from flagstone patio experts...
Comments (11)Jeff, the level is up to you. You can level the area by increasing the amount of mortar or maintain the slope. After you have laid the thin flagstone on the concrete base, and it has dried, you will grout between the stones. Be sure to use some admix (like elmers glue) in your mortar mix so you get a good bond to the old concrete pavement. On the grassy area: You are going to remove the grass down maybe 3" and add crushed stone or granite gravel, lower than the old sidewalk and depending on the thickness of your flagstone. Now tamp it down (again leveled or slopped)and sprinkle some dry portland cement on the top. In this area you want to use a thicker flagstone and you are only going to use enough sand to level the stone. When all the stone is down mist everything so that the portland grabs onto the flagstone and the gravel. Now you are ready to grout between the stones and it will look like one continuous patio. The only place that you will need edging is where the stone is not held in by something e.g. the edge where the steps are. I've actually used the thin edging for pavers that you get at the big box stores. My step comment had to do with the blue line and the lag bolt trim pcs but if you mortar the flagstone you won't need anything special there. Bailey...See MoreFlagstone patio for Tabardca
Comments (5)Well, thankfully my neighbors are too far away to hear me talking to the fish! lol And yes, some do have names. The largest calico coloured one in the middle(a shebunkin) is named Big Mama, because I was able to watch when they were spawning and she was the one to lay the eggs. These eggs stuck on the roots of a water hyacinth, so I put the whole thing in an ice cream pail and ended up having 200 babies! That was last October, and the number is down to about 15 now....much more manageable. The other named one is the black and orange one and he's called Blackie. He started out all black and it's taken 2 years for him to get the colour he has now. I started out 3 years ago with a tiny pond, just half of a rain barrel and most of the larger fish are from that. I do bring them in for winter, but with the babies growing so fast I think I may need another tub for this winter. Tabardca, you sure are the ultimate do it yourselfer! Sounds like you've been busy for awhile. Building your own house, wow! It seems we always have a project on the go too. Most of the winter we've been renovating inside the house, and by spring we're more than ready to move to the outside jobs! Thanks everyone for the complements. This project turned out pretty much like I wanted, although I had envisioned a lot more rock......DH drew the line at bringing in a bulldozer though! LOL Laurie...See MoreTara
2 years agoJoe Webb
2 years agoWestCoast Hopeful
2 years agoJoe Webb
2 years agoJoe Webb
2 years agoK Laurence
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agomojavemaria
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agobtydrvn
2 years agobtydrvn
2 years agobtydrvn
2 years agobtydrvn
2 years agobtydrvn
2 years agoFori
2 years agoK Laurence
2 years agocalidesign
2 years agobtydrvn
2 years ago
Related Stories
PATIOSPatio Details: Good-bye Cracked Concrete, Hello Lush Garden
A San Francisco couple replace an old parking space with a barefoot-friendly outdoor retreat for eating, entertaining and play
Full StoryPATIOSPatio Details: A Shaded Patio Opens Up the View in Wine Country
A Douglas fir and metal pergola offers shelter from the hot sun on this scenic California property
Full StoryGARDENING AND LANDSCAPINGPave the Way to Landscape Style With Flagstone
Define a patio, build a path, make a fire pit ... learn about flagstone's many uses, plus costs and considerations, here
Full StoryMIDCENTURY HOMESHouzz Tour: Pursuing the Good Outdoor Life in Palos Verdes
With a refinished patio and an added deck, these homeowners can enjoy the abundant California sunshine
Full StoryBACKYARD IDEASWhat to Know About Installing a Stone Patio
Planning to add a stone patio to your landscape next year? Here’s what to consider before getting started
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGN9 Fresh Concrete Patio Ideas for Yards of All Styles
This versatile flooring material can enhance landscapes in unexpected ways
Full StoryPATIOSPatio Details: Covered Dining Area Extends a Family’s Living Space
Large sliding glass doors connect a pergola-covered terrace with a kitchen and great room in Seattle
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNHow to Look Good From Any Angle (the Garden Edition)
Does your garden pique interest from one vista but fall flat from another? These tips and case-study landscapes can help
Full StoryPATIOSThese 3 Patios Make an Unsexy Technical Detail Cool
How can you keep rain from pooling on your patio? With clever style, as these designers prove
Full StoryMOST POPULARFind the Right Glass Door for Your Patio
It’s more than just a patio door — it’s an architectural design element. Here’s help for finding the right one for your home and lifestyle
Full Story
Memphis Forrest