Wood to tile transition

2 years ago

The wood floor is 1/4" inch higher than tile. They claim had they made it flush if I ever wish to change it..then the subfloors would be uneven. What shall I do? Any ideas for transition which is not plastic? Or have them take it up?

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Comments (6)

SJ McCarthy
2 years ago
A quarter inch is not a big deal. A basic reducer like an uneven T-molding should do the trick.

What type of wood do you have? Who installed what (the tile or the wood)?? And what was already in place (tile or wood)?

If you have a wood floor you do not use plastic. If you have a wood-LOOK floor you *might have to use plastic...but again, it is hard to say what is needed without knowing what you HAVE.

Is the wood floor PERMANENT (ie. nail/glue in place)? Or is it floating (clicked together like a laminate floor)?
wm_dickerson
Original Author
2 years ago
It's hardwood floors nailed in place

Hardwood floors
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Anyone can do it Lisa. If you need a header transition on the right side you would square it and install the header with the groove facing out. If the header is on your left, install it with the tongue facing out. When you get to the headers start your rows off the headers, working right to left or vice-versa. Sometimes there will two header transitions opposite from each other and you would need a router. I'm in SW Virginia homebound. I use a piece of MDF to create a template and place the template down on the flooring and then cut the radius using a router.
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So since there is open space on all of the other sides of the wood, grouting will leave enough room for expansion?? I know engineered flooring isn't as susceptible to expanding/contracting. I didn't know that caulking an edge is still considered leaving a space (thought it had to be open). Does grout still allow the floor to move?? Are there any options for no transition piece if the wood floor and the tile are NOT the same height? Thank you for your response! :)
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Thanks for all the thoughts. Sounds like tile on slab would be firmer on feet than wood on slab. I'll also look into the Marmoleum Click suggestion. Have to admit I'm a bit of a snob on the idea of vinyl but I should look at it. Thanks for the shoe suggestion! I have a chronic plantar fascitis problem and have been fighting peroneal tendonitis for over 2 years. I am always in either my Birkenstocks (use for house shoes/slippers) or sneakers with custom orthotics. Every step. I miss being barefoot -- was a total barefoot person before. On transitions my concern if I go with wood is it would be an big opening from the kitchen to the LR/DR which has a wood floor that I cannot continue there (rustic boards nailed in - I don't think it can be matched on the slab and it has gaps that I don't love for the kitchen (have it in my kitchen now). So I'm not sure how it would look to have a big wide opening changing woods. Like the tile examples above I guess some boards placed across the opening framing the transition point.
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I did my wood to tile transition without strips (in order to make my place more handicap-friendly.) They just have to make the top surface of the tile and the top surface of the wood be the same height, I think I have about 1/8th inch difference at most between kitchen and living space, no difference between hallway and bath, and 1/8th difference at most between master and master bath. Back at my old home, I had a transistion strip between the dining area and the kitchen - it made it horrible to move from the linoleum of the kitchen back out to the wood of the dining area when I had a broken ankle and was on wheels. Plus the strips really do look ugly. (PS< the wood transition strips look fine, but mine were metal strips... but neither are necessary.) Others have pointed out you can have hardwood throughout, I just simply didn't want to do that. (Actually, my wood floors are broad beam pine, which is soft, anyway.) My build is semi-open, so I had the option in the kitchen to do tile, and so I did.
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wm_dickerson
Original Author
2 years ago

Transition
SJ McCarthy
2 years ago
You will need to purchase the uneven T-moulding for the wood. If the tile is already in, then it is going to be hard to add it a schluter edge onto the tile...it is normally set UNDERNEATH the tile.

Feel free to go back to where you purchased the floor and order the uneven t-molding for the floor. If they do not make one, you can take a piece of your wood floor to a "Windows, Doors and Moldings" company and they can custom stain an Uneven T for you. It will be about $20/linear foot and you will need to purchase 6 or 8 foot lengths. Some places let you purchase a 4 foot piece...but it depends on the business and what they offer.

You might get lucky and find something off-the-shelf at Home Depot...but you will need to know the thickness of the WOOD floor. Again, that's when taking a piece of the floor with you is the way to go. You can find a close match and take it home. Again, they sell them in 6ft - 8ft lengths.
kculbers
2 years ago
My carpenter fabricated an oak transition piece between my oak flooring and my Italian porcelain wood look tile flooring.
wm_dickerson
Original Author
2 years ago
Thanks everyone

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Wood to tile transition

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Wood to tile transition

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SJ McCarthy

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