Poa is an annual and will die in the summer. If you don't want to wait, you can spray it with roundup and reseed. For such a small area, I would probably kill it now and patch. Poa germinates in the fall, so it is just something that comes along with fall seeding. You can use a preemergent this fall so that it doesn't return next year. You probably will want to buy a bag now and store it because the box stores often only carry it in spring.

Gags: Gary is pretty much on-the-money. It's all in a confusion about how pre-emergents work... People (even some "experts") will tell you that pre-emergents work by "preventing germination". So it's understandable that you'd say "so it will just wait until I spot applying Pre-M". Logical. But wrong. Pre-M's actually work by letting the seed germinate, and then interfering with a hormone that let's the newly-germinated seed develop a root system. No root = dead plant. And dead plants don't germinate again later. But, you say, we've all heard that Poa can last in the soil for years and years. True enough. But the ones that haven't germinated yet are ones where the conditions aren't right for germination - like if the seed gets buried deeply. Now, if you till and bring it to where the conditions are favorable - boom! Nature doesn't plant time bombs - 99.999% of the seeds that have favorable conditions will try to germinate in those conditions. Think of this comparison - did you ever hear of someone planting a KBG lawn that didn't germinate and then 5 years later it exploded into a beautiful lawn overnight? Same with Poa - nature grabs the opportunity when it presents itself. Tilled seeds and seeds being pulled to the surface are among the reasons that many of us wince when someone asks "should I till?".

Taras, this is one topic that you need to focus only on answers that come from other New Yorkers. The laws about pre-emergents are very different in New York than other states, and even stricter on Long Island than the rest of NY. I know that your original profile says NYC and now says "10". I hope that you don't mean USDA Zone 10 - that's Southern Florida territory. Finding appropriate pre-m's in NY is not easy this time of the year. Some garden centers have leftover "crabgrass preventers" that may or may not be right for this time of year. You can't apply a Pre-M in NY that doesn't contain a fertilizer. Look for Scott's Halts (NOT the "for seeding" stuff) or something with Dimension as the active ingredient (Dimension is not allowed on Long Island). I wound up with Jonathan Green crabgrass preventer with Dimension at a local garden center (I'm in the Hudson Valley). There are a few other active ingredients that are OK, but they are hard to find now. Expect to get a lecture from some garden centers that the pre-m's don't work this time of year -- most garden centers assume that crabgrass preventers are only for crabgrass prevention (wrong!). Smile nicely and get the product.

This is from the Prograss label as found at: http://www.backedbybayer.com/BAYER/CropScience/BackedByBayer.nsf/9F4DB0DA3B03DBD5852573220063D615/$FILE/Prograss%20432-941%20011227A%20SRL.pdf VARIETAL TOLERANCE The following turfgrass cultivars have shown tolerance to PROGRASS® Herbicide; however, all species and varieties have not been tested. PROGRASS® Herbicide has been used safely on the following turfgrass cultivars, but its use is not strictly limited to these. Before large scale use of PROGRASS® Herbicide on other cultivars, a tolerance test on a small area is recommended. PERENNIAL RYEGRASSÂAcclaim, Blazer, Dasker, Derby, Elka, Fiesta, Goalie, Hunter, Linn, Loretta, Manhattan II, Palmer, Pennfine, Regal, Yorktown. KENTUCKY BLUEGRASSÂAdelphi, American, Aspen, Asset, Challenger, Classic, Emundi, Huntsville, Georgetown, Glade, Haga, Julia, Liberty, Merit, Midnight, Monopoly, Mystic, Parade, Rugby, Sydsport, Touchdown. DO NOT APPLY to the following cultivars: Northstar, Explorer, Limousine, RAN I and Total Eclipse. CREEPING BENTGRASSÂCarmen, Cobra, Highland, Lopez, Mariner, National, Penncross, Providence, Putter, Southshore, SR1020, and Viper have shown good to excellent tolerance to PROGRASS® Herbicide. Injury has been noted on Emerald, Penneagle, and Pennlinks occasionally. PROGRASS® Herbicide may cause serious injury to Cohansey, Colonial, South German varieties, Egmont, Bardot, Tracenta, Allure, Astoria, and SR 7100. TURF-TYPE TALL FESCUEÂAmerica, Arid, Mustang. ST. AUGUSTINE GRASSÂRaleigh. DORMANT BERMUDAGRASSÂTifgreen, Tidwarf, Common Bermudagrass is more susceptible to PROGRASS® Herbicide injury than hybrid Bermudagrass. I'm not here to argue against Prograss. If you can acquire it, or have it applied professionally, and have determined it to be safe for your lawn, by all means go for it. I haven't used it since I have my reservations about trying it especially since my front yard is made of several TTTF cultivars, and there are only three "safe" cultivars listed on the label, and my lawn has none of those.