Not the correct time of year...
jim_1 (Zone 5B)
2 years ago
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Uptown Gal
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Lawn care questions
Comments (7)Well I don't think the lawn is *dead* maybe I need to clarify that. It just seems to be really slow to green up by comparison to those around it. There is definite green coming through, and after being out in it for an extended period of time, it does appear to be evening out (more of an equal mix of the two). As far as what type of grass I have- I do not know that. I assume it's a mix-- perhaps Kentucky, Buffalo and fescue??? Honestly I have no clue so I don't know why I'm even guessing! I have contacted the county to find out who to contact to send in samples to have this confirmed. Watering frequency has been difficult for me- the former owners I *think* installed their own sprinkler system and IMO it leaves quite a bit to be desired (they put leaker hoses on the same line as the regular lawn sprinklers but that's another story). I Spent a good portion of last Summer adjusting the sprinkler heads and trying to find out how often and how much water was needed. I had a very difficult time keeping my lawn green until I started watering 3-4 times a week and for up to an hour at a time which to me seemed excessive. My next door neighbor, by contrast, was only having to water 2-3 times a week, and for 45 minutes or so at a time (or so he said). I've still got work to do with the sprinklers for this year- maybe it's impossible but I'd like to get down to watering only 1-2 times a week and still maintain a green lawn. As for fertilizer- I only use organic/natural fertilizers. No pesticides or commercial companies came to our home last year. The fertilizer I have is Pro-Rich Richlawn. I believe I fertilized twice last year- once in May, and again in Aug/early Sept. Mowing height- between 2-3 inches depending on heat. In the early Spring I'll mow it shorter, but in the hot part of Summer I set the height higher....See Moreplanting store bought leeks?
Comments (1)I tried this last growing season. The leeks went in at what I hoped was the proper root level and kept their tops. Despite our horrible drought they managed to keep foliage for several months. For a while the leeks even seemed to thrive. Unfortunetely they may have died by summers end so I'll try again this spring with ones I grew from seed last year (5 survivors from 1 packet, my methods need work). Give it a try red, I wish you greater success than mine....See MoreZucchini Rampicant experience
Comments (1)My yellow crookneck and a zucchini (same bed) were like that this year. I measured one stem that was way over 10 feet long. I might plant mine under a tall ladder next year and let them climb! Here is a link that might be useful: Annie's Kitchen Garden...See MoreShould I prune my jade?
Comments (12)That's what I would do if it was my plant. Pruning the stretched growth and getting new leaves to grow. Here is something Al (tapla) posted about thickening the trunk: tapla Think of your trunk as a river and each branch as a stream, and each leaf as a brook, all tributaries of the river. Removing streams/brooks (branches/leaves) causes the river to flow (thicken) at a reduced rate. Plants can grow multiplicatively (more branches and leaves) or additively (thicker). Both types of growth occur in meristematic regions; extension and new meristems from apical meristems at branch tips and thickening from the lateral meristems in cambial tissues. Both elongation and thickening of axes is directly related to the number of cell divisions that occur. As cells divide, new cells are laid down in files and are causal of thickening. Since the number of new cells formed IS what determines the amount of thickening, and the number of new cells formed is directly related to food (photosynthate) production, we can say with certainty that there exists a direct relationship between the amount of thickening in the longitudinal axes and the area of the photosynthesizing surface (the number/size of leaves on the plant). From this we see that by removing branches that support viable foliage and/or removal of individual leaves, we reduce axial thickening in direct relation to the photosynthesizing surface area removed. So, as Rina and Rooftop suggested, removing leaves and branches can only have the direct effect of diminishing the rate of thickening in the longitudinal axes. Another post from Al: Hi, Andrey. When we remove branches we remove leaves, thereby reducing the plant's photosynthesizing surface and it's ability to create food from the sun's energy. Less food means fewer cell divisions, so not as many cells laid down in the cambium where thickening occurs. So, no question, removing foliage retards thickening of the trunk and branches. If you want more side branches, removing the plants apices (growing branch tips/ apical meristems) removes most of the source of auxin, the growth regulator responsible for suppressing lateral breaks (side branches). This allows cytokinin, the growth regulator that stimulates lateral breaks to become dominant, which stimulates axillary and adventitious buds to grow - so more branching. Also, maximizing light while ensuring good air movement and appropriate fertility causes more secondary growth. Al Here is whole thread those 2 post are in: -click here- Perhaps you may find interesting reading whole thread, few other questions are answered....See Morejoann_fl
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