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Floor tile cracks repair

2 years ago

last modified: 2 years ago

We installed this travertine tile floor in our house and it has cracked in several places over the last 7 years. We have gotten some taken up and replaced but they just cracked again. Anyone know a way to repair or replace these to make them look better? There is over 3000 sq ft of this continuous tile in our house so replacing it all is not feasible. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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Comments (10)

cat_ky
2 years ago
The only thing that will work is to replace them, but, they will do it again, as you have found out. There is a reason, they are cracking. Improper installation. You may want to read this link. https://ctasc.com/expert-answers/why-do-my-travertine-tiles-have-cracks-and-sound-hollow/
SJ McCarthy
2 years ago
That's 'underneath' stuff. That's not tile stuff. Something UNDERNEATH the tile is causing it TOO MUCH stress and the TILE is cracking. Stone has ZERO 'give' to it. It will take stress until one day it SNAPS.

To fix this you MUST remove the tiles in that AREA (ie the ENTIRE KITCHEN) and then have the SUBSTRATE (the thing it is sitting on) FIXED. Yep. That's where you need to go.

If you are on concrete slab then the slab needs to be grown down and then filled and the tiles replaced. If the tiles crack AGAIN in the same areas, then you need to make sure the house isn't sinking or doing something horrible. Doubt it...but you NEVER KNOW.

If this is over wood-joist system (ie. there's a basement or a crawl space underneath) then you have to ensure the floor joists are secure AND you have the correct deflection rating for the thickness of the subfloor. To be clear, structure comes from plywood and NOT cement backer board.

Tell us MORE about your home's situation...we can go from there.

Just be prepared for removing a large portion (an entire room) to get this to work.
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Repair that grout joint, and all you've done is set it up to crack again. Most likely, the reason that particular joint is cracking is because that's where the top of the pan membrane is. Most likely, it's time to replace the shower pan, as well as about 18"- 2 feet up the walls. One thing everyone who reads this thread needs to keep in mind-- when grout cracks, it's not the problem. It's a SYMPTOM of the problem, and 9 times out of 10, that problem is either structural movement, or moisture getting at the framing and making it swell. Either way, the problem needs to be identified and mitigated. Otherwise, you can grout it, caulk it, tape it up-- whatever. You're still going to have a problem that will need attention sooner or later, and the sooner you take care of it, the cheaper it'll be to do so.
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Okay-- here's the thing-- I've had people ask about taking it even another step further, and replacing the grout with epoxy grout. I'll tell you the same thing I told them. You will NOT stop movement where it's occurring. You can only take it into account. Most grout already contains some kind of acrylic polymer, so it's a dead issue, but just for the sake of argument, let me follow this where you were taking it (assuming you're looking to make the joints harder and tougher to crack). If you accept the given that I put forth, that you're not going to stop movement, then you'll understand when I say that movement, just like electricity or water, will find the path of least resistance. Right now, that's the grout joint. Now, the only way to make the grout joint hard enough where it won't crack is to make it harder than the tile. But if you do that, guess what's gonna crack NOW? Remember-- you won't stop the movement. You need to find the source of the problem and fix it, or it'll keep coming back, and sooner or later, it's going to start getting worse.
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Comments (9)
Gah! Meanwhile my uppity homeowner self requested expansion joints in her tile floor. "Never heard of that", says the guy with 30 yrs experience in construction. I also have the temerity to NOT buy my tile from Floor & Decor. I asked for baseboards to be installed after the tile and that's not how they usually do it. "It'll cost more for the painters because it's an extra step." That's fine, I say. I'm using Corian instead of granite or quartz. "No one uses Corian anymore." I want deep counters for my kitchen that's too narrow for an island but too wide for a galley, never heard of that either. Frameless cabinets? "They aren't as sturdy as the ones we build." Steam Oven? "Never heard of it." HUSH for the sinks? "Never used that." This is an established and respected contracting company. They, and their subs, just don't know every detail about every thing. We're not kicking each other off of the job but I'm the investor, I'll ask questions, and advocate for a certain standard. I'm an awful customer, willing to pay for all of my "different" ideas and give them the information to accomplish them. OP, did your pro calculate deflection ratings? I'm wondering if it even occurred to him. One can ask for things but you need the pro to have the numbers/experience/best practice recommendations to have success. Pros have a varying degrees of the aforementioned and it's very hard to tell that until the job has started, or ended in your case. I'd talk to the installer and see what they think, while also posting the issue on the John Bridge forum and getting their take.
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Without looking up the installation instructions, one thing that jumps out at me is the way the membrane was installed. Do you see how the bottom sheets overlap the sheets above them? Best practice — and Schlüter I’d imagine (though I could be wrong) — says that it should be installed so that the upper sheets overlap the ones underneath. Have you checked the installation instructions of all the products versus how they were installed? While I do have a better than average knowledge/understanding of tile installation than the average Joe, I’m not an expert in all of the components that go into a tile job, especially subfloor deflection, tile and grout properties. And unless you can verify their credentials, they are very few posters on here whose diagnoses and corrective action advice are valid, so beware if/when people start spouting off “knowledge.” With that in mind, you’re most certainly going to get the best information straight from the manufacturers or from a certified tile pro. Good thing you took a lot of pictures! Btw, if you don’t already own it, I suggest purchasing a copy of this TCNA Handbook: Handbook for Ceramic, Glass, and Stone Tile Installation
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lindalana 5b Chicago
2 years ago
Did they use decoupling membrane during installation?
abmathews456
Original Author
2 years ago
No I do not believe my builder did. Is there anything I can do now?
thinkdesignlive
2 years ago
Answer SJ’s questions
abmathews456
Original Author
2 years ago
The tile was put directly on the concrete. The house is only 7 years old. We have had an engineer out and it is not a structural issue. The problem is the kitchen, living, dining is one big area that also feeds into the rest of the house that is the same tile. There isn't a breaking point to remove just a section and I doubt I will be able to match the tile from 7 years ago. Besides removing them, is there anyway to fill in or correct that cracks that are there so they are not so noticeable. I will add a few more pictures to understand the layout.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
2 years ago
I'm betting your tile were installed directly over a control joint in the concrete, a fatal error. You can tear it out and install Schluter Ditra as an uncoupling membrane, but it is only gauranteed to work laterally, not up and down which is how concrete sometimes moves.

Another case where the tile setter should have told the homeowner/designer "No, we're not doing it like that." and saved them from themselves.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
2 years ago
As far as a repair, get yourself a couple shades of color matched wax sticks and go to town.
SJ McCarthy
2 years ago
And there it is. The answer is rip it up to 'correct' the cracking. Or leave it and add matched wax sticks that you use as filler. You will need to keep the colour on hand as your cleaning will need remove the wax over time.

A tile floor is designed to last 20 - 30 years. You are roughly half way through a SHORT time frame for the floor. A quick change for the tile is 15 years. It's the time frame when a tile floor is poorly installed, cracking or lifting.

I would find a coloured filler (as Joseph suggests) and use it for the next 7 years. All the while you will be saving up to remove ($2-$3/sf), correct the subfloor if needed ($3-$5/sf for concrete) and then purchase a new floor ($3 - $25/sf) and then install it ($3 - $12/sf).

The removal costs and subfloor costs are 'fixed' costs. The replacement costs depend on YOUR purchase wish. The INSTALLATION costs are anchored to the MATERIAL you purchase. A floating cork floor = $3/sf for installation costs. A high-end stone tile install = $12/sf for labour/install.

You have 7 - 10 years to save up for the full removal of this floor. Or sooner...if you really hate it.
abmathews456
Original Author
2 years ago
Thank ya'll so much for your responses. It is greatly appreciated.

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