That gives me a lot to think about. I appreciate you playing around with my design. Option 1 doesn't give me counterspace, but I originally thought of a separate furniture-look linen closet with a bigger vanity. But we now prefer to put a linen cabinet like that in the open area that's between the bathroom and laundry closet. It's a squarish shape that all the bedroom doors open into, not a long hallway. A linen closet in that space is convenient to all the bedrooms and the laundry closet. Option 2 is one I would do in a heartbeat if it was the master bath. I would probably make the towers 12" and add some counter space to the sink. Might cut out the hutch drawers and save some $. The only thing I don't like is that it shifts the person at the sink almost opposite the door, and that just doesn't feel right to me for some reason. But I could get used to it. Now #3 is interesting because I could do 12" drawers to the left and it wouldn't shove me so far over in front of the door while at the sink. I could use sconces, which would give me some light at the mirrored hutch. I like the idea of standing in front of the hutch for grooming instead of leaning over the sink. I'm not too sure about the drawers below the hutch being a different size, and evening them up adds more small drawers I don't need. I wouldn't know how to divide the long bottom drawer in that scenario. But I got graph paper! Thank you, GreenDesigns. I'll see where this takes me.

Thanks mamadadapaige. The sink is custom made, it was done from the same marble as our marble slabs so it matches :) They did a beautiful job with it too, we're very happy! beekeeperswife, I assume you are referring to the mirrored cabinet here since the glass cabinets are not in that picture? All of the cabinets in my kitchen are full overlay. BUT, we did feet around the fridge cabinet and a border so it sort of looks inset even though it is not. Here are some better pictures of it, along w/ an example of the inset cabs they did for us in the bath so you can see both. The toe kick isn't on here- we're having them make the toe kicks out of the wood from the wood floors so the toe kick disappears and gives the feel of floating furniture (yup, Dutch Wood can do that, they are amazing!) (They did the whole bathroom here of course, including the mirror- and the top drawers on the right are actually one big drawer w/ plug outlet inside, but they magically made it look like two). If you want to see more pics of my cabinets, there's lots more on the blog- not sure if you've seen it or not.

The wood cabinets are being custom made by a small local manufacturer and then the manufacturer will install the cabinets in my home. They recommended a contractor to do the demo and prep and some electrical changes I want in the kitchen. I think I need to talk to the manufacturer/installer a bit more about these things, rather than relying on the demo/prep contractor to handle it. Maybe we should leave the linoleum that is currently under the cabinets in place under the new cabinets (although it may not be the same thickness as the new flooring, so that might not be the right solution either)... HandyMac - Do you suggest any particular insulating underlayment product? Is this something that I'd buy from a flooring company, or even just from a Home Depot? Everyone's comments are really helpful and make a lot of sense - thanks! MSDG Mario - The link you gave me didn't work. I think this is a similar link: https://woodworkinstitute.com/publications/architectural-woodwork-standards/. This is a LOT of information that is kind of over my head, but it's good to know that it's out there!

I have an engineer friend who says "there are two types of concrete...concrete that has cracked and concrete that will crack". This is likely not a structural issue. The person to ask is your engineer.