Central air blower shot, replace the blower or entire system?
Rose Beginner(MA - 6A)
2 years ago
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replacing central natural gas systems after 16 yrs, need advice
Comments (36)Hi TD and thanks. We do have other gas appliances, and still are considering the gas generator backup so I feel that the dual fuel system is still of most interest. At present, one major dilemma is replacement of all of the ductwork, which was suggested by the Carrier dealer with the high prices, and the Trane dealer who miscalculated, waited weeks to give an estimate and did so only after I called them numerous times. They also have not yet gotten back to me with the corrected estimate. Also the latter really did not want to give me the equipment specs. The Lennox dealer has been very responsive. He initially recommended replacing only some of the ductwork, but thought we could leave the trunk lines alone for the most part. So one of the elements, which adds quite alot of expense, is whether or not to replace all of the ductwork. The Lennox dealer would be willing to do that, but it would add over 4k to the cost. Any thoughts on that? All the dealers commented on the adequacy of the duct system after a rather cursory inspection. When I questioned the Carrier rep. further he indicated that he could tell just by looking at a few spots that the ductwork was "too big in some lines and too small in others), and the branching from the main duct was not done properly. Also any thoughts on a good Lennox package? Is the package suggested by their bid adequate? It has I think a single speed (coil? compressor?) paired with a 15 SEER unit. He calculated that would give a 14 SEER used together. I have tried to find another Carrier dealer who services my area with no luck. The only other Carrier dealer is a national chain store. I had scheduled a visit for them to give me an estimate at the very beginning of this process; however, the appointment was cancelled with no follow-up. I called them back to reschedule and the earliest appointment that they have would be mid-June--I hoped to have installation complete by then! THe Lennox dealer said that had previously offered Carrier, but that the distribution center for our area was so unresponsive that they had many concerns about dealing with them because they had problems obtaining parts in a timely manner. The Carrier dealer also said that the distribution center did not carry some equipment such as the Carrier 14 SEER heat pump. Unfortunately, we live in a small town, and even the dealers from whom I am receiving estimates are in other surrounding towns--no one competent in our community! Thanks again for all of your help. Regards, Beth...See MoreBuying a Central air heat/air system need advice.........
Comments (2)OK, heres the info that I was given on both units: Goodman: 1-MBE1600-Air Blower 1-CAPF3743C6-Evaporator Coil 1-ASZ14036-3.0 Ton Heat Pump Condenser 1-Digital Heat Pump Therostat RUDD: 1. Untra Series Heat Pump UPQL-JEZ 1. UHKA Air Handler Digital thermostat It says install 15 seer HP 3ton R-410-A split system. Now whether or not my house needs a 3 ton or not I left that up to the dealer/installers. But my house was built in 1940, is about 1500 square feet, with NON-insulated windows, with non insulated exterior concrete walls. I do have quite a bit of insullation in the attic. This is probably the reason for the higher ton heat pump. That and trying to get to the tax credit. Both dealers claim that their units qualify for the $1500.00 tax credit. If not then I'm makin me a trip to Sears and just replace my 24,500but window unit with another and call it a day....See MoreNeed Central Air / Heating system equipment advice
Comments (6)I would bet the ductwork is no where near set up for a 5 ton system so it would need to be replaced. I would steer clear of Goodman unless you were comparing the top of the line Goodman to at least middle of the road Carrier, Ruud, Trane or other brand. Goodman Tempstar and Heil tend to be noisier and just kind of 'klunky' than some other brands and it seems easier to get a fly by night installer. I bought a home with a Tempstar and the installer was a moron. I spent probably 40 hours opening up return holes in the floor/wall cavaties, adding a return duct and sealing every connection with mastic and still had a system that you had to turn the tv up every time the blower came on. I found out later my 'installer' took a class in HVAC online!! My first winter in 2006 I had 400-500.00 electric bills in a 1,700sq ft home and after the duct fixes I dropped it to 250-300 of course part of that was adding a good outdoor sensing thermostat. I think my bills with this new RUUD system will stay in the low 200.00 range. The new system draws half the amperage of the old one in heat pump mode. I am also getting by with 10kw of heat strips instead of 20 just sealing everything up and getting the ducts right. I don't think there would be anything wrong with a top of the line GOodman but you better be VERY cautious of the installer. The installer is the most important key to the equation. I do not think anyone in here is 'tranewashed' its just speaking the truth overall a Rheem Ruud Carrier Trane American Std Bryant and many others are just overall better systems. I would not personally get a bid for a tempstar or the like even if it was a rental house. I thought the same thing before this experience 'who cares as long as it blows hot and cold when its supposed to' but after my experience with a system that was louder than my old mobile home with the furnace in a hallway instead of in my basement. No Thanks!!...See MoreModern-aire hood with Wolf remote blower
Comments (8)The Wolf 1500 nominal CFM blower that I have is sourced from Broan as Joe noted above. As I recall, being an induction motor, it requires two-conductor-plus-ground cable, probably with AWG 14 conductors. (If you are desperate to know this, I can get into my attic to look.) Romex (NM) cable should do unless your municipality has some peculiar requirement otherwise. Even an amateur electrician should have the needed cable on hand. My Wolf hood (made by Independent in those days) uses a rheostat-controlled diac/triac circuit for motor control. (This is probably described somewhere on Wikipedia, as well as in various 1970-ish transistor circuit guides, such as the one by GE.) More sophisticated integrated circuit motor controls exist if one wants to initiate a research hobby to look them up. Note: Semiconductor motor controls operate in a reverse direction from lighting controls. Upon turn-on, the motor is given full power to start up, and then further clockwise rotation of the control reduces motor power. (In the diac/triac circuit, the reduction in power is due to increasing amounts of the electrical cycle being removed from the motor power waveform.) The Wolf blower housing has its own damper that opens when the motor starts. I believe it to be forced open by the air pressure. The hood damper is still useful as one wants to keep wind impinging on the system from leaking into the house, and warm household air from leaking past the hood into attic spaces. If your hood doesn't have a damper, order one from Fantech for your size ducting, along with a couple of duct clamps. I'm not sure that locality of repair is really an important factor in a roof-mounted blower. You or your designated victim will have to get up there and remove parts to get the motor out, and then replace it. If a meteor hits the blower, just plan on replacing the entire assembly. While my unit generally keeps the roof below it clear of snow, or at least self clears the snow, in very cold weather with a humidified house damper freezing is possible. If you have very deep snow, a more commercial style up-blast blower assembly on a suitable pedestal may be a better choice. kas...See MoreRose Beginner(MA - 6A)
2 years ago
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