I understand, the entire system is going to run into those $$$'s, not just the cables. You certainly can place your cables before finishing the basement. I suggest purchasing shielded cables though so that you do not get interference from electricity. Speak with a reputable home theatre shoppe, they're know. If you select to install conduit, use PVC as it is non-metallic. If you simply place the wire, then carefully measure and keep a record so they can be located when needed. That's what I did in our basement. Are you going to have a projection TV? You'll need HDMI cables for it. Had a similar situation for our Family Room where the components are on the opposite wall from the TV. I ran a 1 1/2" PVC in the basement rafters for feeding the wires across the room. 2" would have been better. Make certain to use wide sweep corners. Hope this helps.

Not sure why you would need 220 for a freezer...usually a regular 110 outlet will do... You can just add a box for 220 to charge a car in the future...put the outlet in later...

I don't know what your neighborhood is like in terms of how quickly buyers jump to put in their offers, but I'll tell you our experience. We're in the Philadelphia suburbs about 15 minutes from the city on a popular, desirable street in a good township with great schools. Even in the slowing market houses on our street sell quickly. We just sold in 10 days. Before we went on the market we were thinking of having our own inspection done just to pre-emptively fix anything that might come up in a buyer's home inspection. What our realtor told us was this: Don't have the inspection. Right now you don't know if anything is wrong, and you don't want to know, because then if you can't/don't want to fix whatever it is, you'll have to disclose it, which will scare more potential buyers off than anything else. Wait for them to love the house and offer and have their own inspection, and then we'll deal with any issues as they come up. What we did do on her advice was purchase a 1-year home warranty for the buyers...we also advertised this in the listing. This way buyers know that should anything break (furnace, water heater, appliances, etc.) they are covered by the warranty. I know I've heard that when push comes to shove some warranties aren't worth the paper they're printed on, but the fact that one exists can be very reassuring for buyers. As a result of us paying for a home warranty, our buyer waived all inspections! SO I'm glad we took our realtor's advice on not having our own inspection done.

The breakdown cost is usually the total opening amounts for (lights switching, lighting fixtures, outlets and appliance loads) plus the cost of the utility metering and service panel or panels Materials & Labor. Who ever does do the wiring harness installation and top out make sure that they do not back stab the wiring into the devices (outlets & switches) it is a weak link connection and can cause many problems like loss of power to downstream devices with usage and age. Mixing lighting and outlets on the same circurit breakers is not a good idea either even though it is code legal if the outlet power is lost also the lighting is lost. It is better to have dedicated circurit breakers for lighting and it also makes a faster connection to Green energy for lighting. Circuit breakers are designed to create heat during their course of operation the more wattage that is being consumed the hotter that it gets until it reaches its trip point or a dead short to ground. Placement of these circuit breakers inside the electrical panel is done with Step Down method taking the highest voltage and amperage downward from the main breaker. New construction and open walls is a clean slate to start with and is the time to consider what you need for todays needs and future wiring needs for electrical, security, internet, cable & satellite, Green energy solar & wind and any other wiring needs. www.dbelectric.us