We have had two moves with our cats (15,14,14,12) and one of those has a "very low stress tolerance" in other words is a bit neurotic. With both moves I've given the cats a mild sedative/antianxiety medication for the first 12-36 hours (depending on the cat) and kept them confined to smaller areas of the house until they seem adjusted then let them gradually explore more areas. This process took different amounts of time per cat. The oldest "kid" only took a couple days to get used to the new place each time, the middle two about a week, and my nervous nellie about 3 weeks. Our move is anticipated to be next summer (start construction this fall) and I just hope all the furry kids are still with us since they are all getting up there in age. My real kids (10 and 6) are a little stressed about changing schools and losing any of the pets will be very hard on them. The dogs have only been in the current house but they both adapt pretty easily to new situations--going with us camping, visiting friends and families houses without stress so I'm not too worried about them. Cats are much more territorial creatures than dogs are and have a harder time adjusting to moves in general--but it really depends on the temperament of the individual pet. Cork--anti-anxiety meds (Xanax works well in cats-talk to your vet to see if it's appropriate for yours) might be a good idea for your kids if they have some aggression issues between them. If they don't get along very well it might be a good idea to keep them in separate areas for a while (1-2 weeks) until they are both relaxed in the new environment. More space will probably help also. Another idea is to have at least two or three litterboxes (general rule is 1 more box than cats) and maybe put them in different areas of the house. Potty areas are important territorial areas and it sometimes helps to have separate areas for this too--they may both use both boxes but the spacial separation sometimes helps. Kitties are complicated--that's what I love about them. Dogs are much more interactive and will follow directions--that's what I love about them. I'm a veterinarian--working emergency medicine now, but did a lot of behavioral consulting when I was in general practice. I wanted to add that so you would know I wasn't just randomly giving advice and drug suggestions :)

Whoa, if you get a degree in industrial arts you get to acquire carpentry textbooks along the way?!? Sweet! Kim, I've always enjoyed/appreciated your contributions; given the wisdom of trial and error that was behind them, I see why they stood out. My mom got us a couple of the Reader's Digest fixit books (have to run downstairs, one of them might be the very one you have); I like the way they are encyclopedic and detailed. I know Jane Powell but not the Small Houses books (do you mean The Not So Big stuff by Susanka, or the Small House anthologies from Fine Homebuilding?) Thanks for mentioning books; I think I might start a reference book thread for this forum. Hey Casey, THANKS for taking the bait. And you are NOT a bloody genius, you are an old house DEITY for crying out loud! Would you please start your own show on youtube? Or maybe just a house tour? Even Petch house has youtube videos. Or, do you already have a project blog and everyone knows about it but me? Actually for someone with a degree in historic preservation, I am impressed with how low-key your posts come across; they read more like an old friend who's "been there" and wants to pass along lessons learned along the way, it's really very nice and encouraging. But if you ever want to browbeat me feel free; I would take it as a compliment. To be honest if I post about something I'm thinking of doing to my house, and you don't opine, I figure one of two things is going on: 1) you're not on the forum; or 2) you're politely disapproving. Most of the time I assume it's 2 because you seem to be pretty consistent around here. But I just want to say, and I hope I speak for many, that I love love love your posts, especially when I'm searching on a problem I'm trying to solve and something from you pops up! (PS I finally got around to using that general finishes gel varnish you recommended and it was fantastic, thank you; I will post photos to the woodworking forum sometime before the next census.) Oh, and I love the way you "aged" the color tones in the new pine beadboard in your kitchen; reminds me of the pine in my grandmother's kitchen. When I was really little I used to look at the gleaming pores and think it was the closest wood could get to 24K gold.

It's tough to find photo examples of paint colors that coordinate with natural wood trim. I want to update/refresh my home with the wood trim in tact. I haven't done a lot of decorating since moving into my house. It's a slow processes trying to hone a style on a tight budget. I know most articles on choosing paint colors suggest having other decor in place before choosing paint, but it will likely take us years to get there, and I feel painting is an affordable step we can take right now that will help us improve the feel of our space. I'm going for an updated look that meshes well with historic elements in the home, such as the wood trim, wood floors, and original antique silver-colored radiators. Original wood work is american chestnut so it's not super dark and has a variety of red and orange undertones. My furniture is a mix of antiques and custom Amish-made pieces. My decorating style is somewhat eclectic with a mix of bohemian, equestrian and subtle gothic elements. There will be custom paintings of dragons, crows, horses and unicorns, but nothing girly. Paintings and decor will have a dangerous or creepy vibe. I intend to keep the blue/gray/green antique wall paper in the powder room, and in various closets throughout the house. Stained glass will be used for privacy on select windows. Thus far, I have chosen Sherwin Williams Needlepoint Navy for the living room, Chelsea Gray for the kitchen and dinging room, and Jade Dragon for the foyer. There is currently a green very similar to the Jade Dragon in the foyer. It looks great with the trim and the gray/green tile throughout the foyer, kitchen and mud room. It blends with the tile and really brings out the red in the trim. All the other walls are a neutral cream color that looks very yellow at night in artificial light. I hate it and want to cool that down. The paint chips look good against my trim in afternoon and evening light. I will try in morning light tomorrow... but I'm still nervous about how they will look in full on the wall. I'll paint test swatches before making a final decision. Do you guys think these colors would work together? These rooms are all connected and have sight lines to each other so need to work together. Any other color suggestions? I'll need more than 3 colors for a whole house scheme. I think the Chelsea gray might carry well up the stairs and into the upstairs hall. I'm thinking I'll start on the first floor and then work my way up and down the stairs to the other floors. Does anyone have examples of these colors in action? If you have wood trim, what colors work well on your walls?

As you rethink your landscaping, consider what changes you'd make to the house itself IF and when your budget permits so your landscaping (because of what you spent on it making you reluctant to change it) might block some change you may want to make later. If you're not planning to add to the front of your home, choose shurbs that thrive in your area and keep their leaves year round. (In Zone 7, I'd suggest aucuba.) If you're even considering changing that front "half gable" into a wider full gable in order to have your door in the front exterior wall rather than opening toward the side of the home and/or if you're even considering building a front porch, make your new sidewalk from your front steps lead away from the house far enough before turning toward your driveway to do that. Planter box with trellis could be placed to hide any discoloration of your siding.