Is it worth upgrading kitchen cabinets with the builder?
sis kus
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Helen
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Is glaze worth the upgrade charge?
Comments (25)Gail...I love my Omega/Dynasty cabinets! We only had one manufacturing issue on a cabinet that was ordered separately from the others (the granite installers irreparably damaged a cabinet and we had to order a replacement). It was a small glaze splotch, IIRC, on the side of the cabinet (end of peninsula). I thought I took pictures, but I couldn't find any. Our KD covered it with a decorative door (on her dime) so you can no longer see it. Other than that, I've had absolutely no problems! The drawers all work as advertised (when there's no granite dust in the glides!), the doors all "line up" w/no gap when there are double doors, and I love how the finish turned out. One thing to consider...if you want toe kick drawers, you will need to order all Custom base cabinets (IglooChic could tell you more...she went all Omega Custom w/toe kick drawers in, I think, all base cabinets.) Differences: The main difference, to me, is that the Omega Custom cabinets are finished inside to match the outside finish. Yes, there are a couple of differences in box construction, but I think the inside finish is the most significant difference. Note that not all doors are available in both lines...but many are. Unfortunately, they don't have the same names! The names, though, start with the same letter. For example, the Artesia door in Dynasty is the same as the Ashford door in Omega Custom....See MoreBuilder options -- Worth it?
Comments (48)I went to the builders design center and saw the options in person. These are the base cabinet doors/colors(not a fan of any of these, will use them for the vanities instead of upgrading). http://i.imgur.com/ZoNe4ud.jpg This is the white cabinet that I liked (3300): http://i.imgur.com/dYwxEGF.jpg These are the rest of the cabinet styles available (anything but the left 3 is an upgrade of some level): http://i.imgur.com/wMrUNak.jpg Base cabinets(are any of these better than the white): http://i.imgur.com/44dsNvY.jpg This is the tile that we like for our MBR: http://i.imgur.com/q4ex42Y.jpg The glossy for shower wall (I hate small tile on the walls, pain to clean), the small tile for shower floor and non glossy for bathrooom floor) The shower will also have a row (I believe 4 inches) for something from here(leaning towards gray) http://i.imgur.com/VXtBXty.jpg Jack and jill will have this: http://i.imgur.com/X7bfd9n.jpg (is it bad to have too much white/marble looking tile for bathrooms)? Have not narrowed down choices for the other 2 baths. Here are the rest of the tile choices (which ones do you guys think look nice for the remaining baths) My favorite is from the techmarble series (priciest) http://imgur.com/a/HVcfT http://imgur.com/a/VVKzk I like this wood look like for the laundry/mudroom area(http://imgur.com/a/sNRjV): http://i.imgur.com/baZPRsI.jpg Do you think that will work or should be go with something else? Rest of the house will be hardwood in time. These are the stanard brick, I am torn with which one to chose: http://i.imgur.com/i7Ddanu.jpg Standard siding,again torn: http://i.imgur.com/netMQG5.jpg Almost all of our upgrades will be in the kitchen/bath and perhaps some recessed lighting....See MoreAre these kitchen cabinet upgrades worth it?
Comments (30)Kountry Wood Products vs. Diamond I don't know Kountry Wood, but Diamond is good stuff. - 1/2 inch particleboard cabinet box sides Go with the strongest boxes you can get. These things are going to be around a long time, and -- as you say -- changing them is a lot of trouble and expense. They're going to be used and abused, stuffed full, leaned upon ... go with strong stuff to start with. - Standard overlay Standard overlay is usually called partial overlay. I'd definitely go with full overlay because it allows you better access to your cabinets -- I'd be willing to pay extra for this. With standard overlay, you get that "post in the middle". Something you didn't mention: Are you going with at least some all-drawer stacks instead of standard cabinets? Drawers give you better access to all your stuff. You also didn't mention whether you're using any specialized pull-outs. I don't think these are a very good bang for the buck. They cost $$$, but they only store a tiny bit. Consider: A similar cabinet concept: If you're using a Lazy Susan in the corner, but sure it's a Super Susan, not just a Lazy Susan ... the difference is that the Lazy Susan (left) is shelves supported by a central post, whereas the Super version (right) is wooden shelves supporting the turn-tables separately. - Flat drawer fronts This is a matter of style. No functional difference. - Solid wood drawer boxes with dovetail joints - Cheap epoxy coated side mount drawer slides - Thicker 3/4 inch shelves - Smooth bottom mount drawer slides with full extension and soft close Yes, pay extra for these things. When they're new, all drawers should work great -- you're paying extra so they'll continue to work well in years to come. I'd go so far as to say you should go with heavy-duty drawer slides on ALL your drawers. And be sure your drawers go allll the way to the back of your cabinet. I know, you'd assume they do ... but I have a 30" deep peninsula with two 20" deep drawers, which means I have about 10" of empty space behind those drawers that's going unused. The style we want is white shaker style. I don't think anyone's bought anything else for the last decade. The builder did say that the issues with the warped doors and loose center pieces can be fixed, but I'm skeptical about that and feel that brand new cabinets shouldn't need fixing I agree with you -- if they're not right on the day they're installed, they'll never be right. Is this the Kountry brand? If so, I'd avoid them. I was always amazed that these giant houses often had the lowest level of cabinets offered by this manufacturer. It might not be 100% ignorance. Don't we see plenty of people on this board building big-big houses, more than anyone needs? I do wonder if some of these people don't reach the finishing stages -- things like cabinets -- and realize that their finances force them to go with builder-basic items because they've already shot the budget. I would steer clear of any company that deliberately misspells their own name. Nothing good can come from that... :) My father's been dead almost three decades, but I can still hear him ranting about that very topic. I wish I could direct my potential clients to this thread when they try to tell me they can get cabinets that “look” just like the ones I’m selling for a much lower price. Yeah, but will those cheaper cabinets still "look" (and function) just like yours in a decade? We all know the answer to that question. I understand that cabinets are tremendously expensive, but this is an area where it makes sense to put in quality -- doing anything else is false economy. Our ceilings are also 9 ft. Our uppers used to be 42" tall with 12" of empty space above. Now our uppers are 46" tall (custom cabs) with 8" of molding above to meet the ceiling. Yes, I totally agree that cabinets-to-the-ceiling are expensive but worth the cost. You can achieve this by buying taller cabinets or by stacking two shorter cabinets....See MoreAre 27" lower cabinets worth the upgrade price?
Comments (35)shead - we are 5'8" and 5'9" so the feel of the uppers is much different from your perspective! But we don't have many uppers anyway, just around the main sink and over the coffeepot, which just barely fits! (the lights are mounted under the cabinet so lower than 21") The worst house for kitchens was our neighbors who were quite tall - both over 6' - so they had counters that were 42" tall (or maybe 45"?) - very uncomfortable for me. But the new owners are both tall so I guess it worked for them - but definitely limited the buyers who wouldn't have to re-do the entire kitchen....See MoreThe Wood Mill
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agosis kus
2 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
2 years agoHelen
2 years agosis kus
2 years ago
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