Are 27" lower cabinets worth the upgrade price?
shead
5 years ago
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Mrs Pete
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
Goodman HVAC - worth upgrading
Comments (4)House is in Phila Pa. 2 exposed qalls (at 90' angles); 1/2 of one wall is 2 car garage; there is southern exposure on the other sides First floor has 9' ceilings; basement should have 8' to the underside of the joists. 11 windows throughout the house, all Anderson low-E ones (builder grade, don't think they are top of the line). Basement should be mostly submerged. std: GSX130301DB & GKS90703BX 'A': GMH950904CX & SSX160361 'B': GMVC950905CX & DSXC180361 & CTK01 If A&B are oversized, it's my fault: I assumed with a full basement, heating an air condition should be increased. I can't speak to the quality of the construction. There's no option to come in prior to closing to do my own work, ie. get an HVAC crew into properly seal the ducts. There's also no option at this point to suggest any different configurations. And as a brand new house, I have no idea what fuel costs with the standard configuration are. If at least the 'A' upgrade had come in lower priced, I probably would have gone with it. I'm thinking now, even if it was better sized, I'm not sure I'd ever see a payback on the extra cost. Thoughts? And thanks. Jeff...See MoreWhich cabinet upgrades are worth it?
Comments (19)I think I have said this before. In my view, doing inset cabinets with concealed hinges is a huge mistake. They are large and unwieldy inside the cabinet. Why are you so determined to do inset if you don't want to see hinges? Personally, I think that hinges are what help create the charm of inset cabinets. At the Rutt price point, asking about charges for extras is just silly. Your KD is right. I keep my steak knives in my utensil drawer too even though we designed the knife insert for both steak knives and prep knives. I don't love the knife insert (some of the larger knives stick out a bit too much) but I hate keeping things on the counter. The spice ramp is really great, however. And my utensil drawer was designed well. It holds both sets of my cutlery, one on each side with the middle for serving pieces (and now my steak knives). No, I did not see the MSRP nor did I ask for a specific discount. I just kept asking at several points whether he could do better and I knew when to stop. Everyone has to win in a negotiation. He knew I wanted him to sharpen his pencil. I knew he wanted to get the business. He knew he was going to get the business, since I had to pay a retainer for him to come out and do the measurements that allowed him to do the detailed plans in the first place. I liked him and he liked me. We developed trust. That's how we did business. I did not play KDs off against one another. I went to three cabinet shops in Manhattan with a rough idea of my design. I got three estimates. One for Signature at a local place in my neighborhood. Signature was her top brand. Then I went to two other shops that sold both Rutt and Signature. The first place was ok but I thought the shop was a bit unappealing, which spoke to me about the KD's design capability. The second and third places were much higher end and I felt more comfortable with their expertise. It came down to personality of the KD at each. The estimates were really just to figure out what order of magnitude i was going to be dealing with. i knew perfectly well that the estimate would vary considerably from what I would end up with. I have never heard of Quality. The only other line I even considered was Signature. Their custom line, which is relatively new, is meant to compete with Rutt Regency....See MoreAre these kitchen cabinet upgrades worth it?
Comments (30)Kountry Wood Products vs. Diamond I don't know Kountry Wood, but Diamond is good stuff. - 1/2 inch particleboard cabinet box sides Go with the strongest boxes you can get. These things are going to be around a long time, and -- as you say -- changing them is a lot of trouble and expense. They're going to be used and abused, stuffed full, leaned upon ... go with strong stuff to start with. - Standard overlay Standard overlay is usually called partial overlay. I'd definitely go with full overlay because it allows you better access to your cabinets -- I'd be willing to pay extra for this. With standard overlay, you get that "post in the middle". Something you didn't mention: Are you going with at least some all-drawer stacks instead of standard cabinets? Drawers give you better access to all your stuff. You also didn't mention whether you're using any specialized pull-outs. I don't think these are a very good bang for the buck. They cost $$$, but they only store a tiny bit. Consider: A similar cabinet concept: If you're using a Lazy Susan in the corner, but sure it's a Super Susan, not just a Lazy Susan ... the difference is that the Lazy Susan (left) is shelves supported by a central post, whereas the Super version (right) is wooden shelves supporting the turn-tables separately. - Flat drawer fronts This is a matter of style. No functional difference. - Solid wood drawer boxes with dovetail joints - Cheap epoxy coated side mount drawer slides - Thicker 3/4 inch shelves - Smooth bottom mount drawer slides with full extension and soft close Yes, pay extra for these things. When they're new, all drawers should work great -- you're paying extra so they'll continue to work well in years to come. I'd go so far as to say you should go with heavy-duty drawer slides on ALL your drawers. And be sure your drawers go allll the way to the back of your cabinet. I know, you'd assume they do ... but I have a 30" deep peninsula with two 20" deep drawers, which means I have about 10" of empty space behind those drawers that's going unused. The style we want is white shaker style. I don't think anyone's bought anything else for the last decade. The builder did say that the issues with the warped doors and loose center pieces can be fixed, but I'm skeptical about that and feel that brand new cabinets shouldn't need fixing I agree with you -- if they're not right on the day they're installed, they'll never be right. Is this the Kountry brand? If so, I'd avoid them. I was always amazed that these giant houses often had the lowest level of cabinets offered by this manufacturer. It might not be 100% ignorance. Don't we see plenty of people on this board building big-big houses, more than anyone needs? I do wonder if some of these people don't reach the finishing stages -- things like cabinets -- and realize that their finances force them to go with builder-basic items because they've already shot the budget. I would steer clear of any company that deliberately misspells their own name. Nothing good can come from that... :) My father's been dead almost three decades, but I can still hear him ranting about that very topic. I wish I could direct my potential clients to this thread when they try to tell me they can get cabinets that “look” just like the ones I’m selling for a much lower price. Yeah, but will those cheaper cabinets still "look" (and function) just like yours in a decade? We all know the answer to that question. I understand that cabinets are tremendously expensive, but this is an area where it makes sense to put in quality -- doing anything else is false economy. Our ceilings are also 9 ft. Our uppers used to be 42" tall with 12" of empty space above. Now our uppers are 46" tall (custom cabs) with 8" of molding above to meet the ceiling. Yes, I totally agree that cabinets-to-the-ceiling are expensive but worth the cost. You can achieve this by buying taller cabinets or by stacking two shorter cabinets....See MoreIs this HVAC upgrade worth it?
Comments (22)I agree with mike_home. To be fair, if we're listing folks in the residential design and construction business who know little about HVAC, we need to include architects, and a lot of low-bid mechanical contractors to the list, too. If your builder is suggesting 4,000 SF as a rule of thumb for going to multiple HVAC units, that recommendation would be based on unit capacity considerations--not comfort or efficiency. HVAC systems need to be designed with regard to the specific home plan (windows, doors, insulation, crawls space design, attic design, etc.); the specific climate zone; the specific orientation with respect to solar heat gain; the availability of local service for the HVAC equipment type; the ability to run ductwork; the cost and availability of utilities; and the owner's preferences and budget. 2nd floors, areas with cathedral ceilings, and sunrooms gain and lose heat more quickly than their 1st floor counterparts with standard ceilings. Ensuring comfort of occupants in such spaces generally requires zoning which can be achieved by installing separate systems for each level or implementing a zoning strategy....See MoreM Miller
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