The CR6 lights can be purchased at HomeDepot and the RT6 at Lowes. As for lighting the glass cabinet, you can use LED UCL lighting or the phantom lighting system. Take some time to consider the lighting needs and desires since a typical remodeling project will take a considerable amount of time and resources and the end results should work for you. Here is a link that might be useful: phantom lighting

If you are putting your sink in the peninsula - especially a main/cleanup sink - then I strongly recommend an 18" overhang - but no less than 15". A 12" overhang will not allow someone to sit there when anything is going on at the sink - prepping, cleaning up, etc. If you don't have enough room in the DR, then consider either eliminating the seating (especially b/c it's right next to the DR table) or moving the peninsula into the kitchen 6" or so more than it is now. Even without a sink, you should have at least 15" of clear knee/leg space. To accommodate a 15" overhang, your peninsula should be 41.5" deep (1.5" overhang + 24" deep cabinet + 1" decorative door or finished panel on the back of the cabinets + 15" overhang). For an 18" overhang, it should be 44.5" deep. You want a deep enough overhang to: (1) Minimize splashing - you should have at least 18" from the faucet stem to the edge of the seating overhang (2) Keep dirty dishes out of the faces of those sitting at the counter. This is one of the disadvantages of sinks in islands and peninsulas - especially when the island or peninsula is not deep enough...dirty dishes are "in the face" of anyone sitting at the counter. (3) Allow comfortable seating - where you don't have to straddle the cabinets, sit sideways, or lean far over to reach the counter. If you're trying to "save space", be aware that people take up the same amount of space even if you skimp on overhang - they just have to sit farther away from the counter and lean farther in...unless, of course, they're sitting sideways - which means you need more than 24" of linear space per seat - or if they're straddling the cabinets - which again means more than 24" of linear space per seat. Oh, and speaking from real-life experience - sitting sideways and twisting around to face the counter is very uncomfortable for more than a couple of minutes. Ditto for straddling cabinets. If everyone in your family is very short and has short legs (and will always be very short), then 12" might work for leg space - but it does not fix the splashing issue. I can't imagine doing anything in a 12" space with water right there. I certainly would not want to do homework, crafts, read, eat, etc. unless the sink were empty and I didn't need any real space for what I was doing.

Even though you have no window on the short wall, I think you should consider tamy's and BB's suggestions for a galley, eliminating the blind corners. Here's a plan to get you started: You have a drop zone for groceries, then prep zone. I put the pantry and ovens at the end, where they are out of the work zones. If the MW/combo opens right-to-left, the ovens and pantry can be switched. Dishes and flatware can be stored in the drawers on the end, with utensils in the drawers beside the cooktop. (I forgot about the wine cooler--dishes could be in the drawers beside the trash pullout, with the wine cooler on the end.) In a small kitchen you need all the storage possible, but having open shelves where the 24" uppers are drawn would keep the kitchen open give it a more spacious feel. Are you planning inset cabinets? If you have inset drawers you can use a 1" overhang, instead of 1.5", adding that extra inch to the aisle. Good luck!

The rectangular island will definitely take up less room and give you a better aisle b/w the table and island. Regarding the heights discussed here: Table-height is 30" off the finished floor Counter-height is 36" off the finished floor Bar-height is 42" off the finished floor For seating comfort, table-height is the most comfortable and bar-height the least comfortable. For an island or peninsula, counter-height is a nice compromise b/w table- and bar-height. Functionally, a counter all one height is much more useful than one broken up by different heights. Seating recommendations: Table-height seating: Overhang - a minimum of 18" of clear leg/knee space Linear spacing - a minimum of 24" linear space per seat, with 30" much better Counter-height seating: Overhang - a minimum of 15" of clear leg/knee space Linear spacing - a minimum of 24" linear space per seat Bar-height seating: Overhang - a minimum of 12" of clear leg/knee space (15" is much better both for comfort and functionality. 12" isn't deep enough to much of anything on the raised counter) Linear spacing - a minimum of 24" linear space per seat . Aisles... Island/Refrigerator aisle...For the aisle b/w the island and range wall, it depends on what type of refrigerator you plan to have: standard-depth (~36" total depth) or counter-depth (~30" total depth). With a counter-depth refrigerator , I think 48" would be fine. It would give you approximately 42" b/w the refrigerator and island. However, if you have a standard-depth and it's not recessed into the wall behind it to make it look counter-depth, then you may want it wider. I would aim for at least 40" b/w the island and refrigerator handles. Island/Sink aisle...For the aisle b/w the sink wall and the island, I would have a minimum of 45", with 48" better. This allows you to have a DW door open and be able to maneuver around it to put dishes away or to let someone walk by while the DW door is open. BTW...aisles are measured to/from the items that stick out into the aisle the farthest - counters, appliance handles, walls, etc. They are not measured cabinet-to-cabinet. The 24-inch depth of base cabinets only includes the cabinet boxes, not the doors/drawer fronts and knobs/pulls. Counters overhang cabinet boxes by around 1.5" to cover the doors/drawer fronts and the knobs/pulls. So, at a minimum, you need to measure counter-to-counter. If there's an appliance in the aisle, then measure to/from the appliance handle and the counter on the other side of the aisle (or whatever is directly across from it.) . Table Spacing... We have 48" b/w our table and peninsula counter and it's not enough if you have people sitting in both places, which is possible if you have two seating areas so close together. I strongly advise a minimum of 54" b/w them, with 60" much better. Also, keep in mind that if that's a slider "above" the table, then you should have 48" b/w the slider and table to allow someone to use the slider while someone else is sitting at the table - unless you are not planning on having a seat on that end of the table. If that's the case, then 36" b/w the slider and table should be enough. (CPArtist already mentioned the 36" minimum b/w the table and the wall on the right.) You might consider a bench along the right wall for the table to give you wider aisles - a banquette-type bench with comfortable cushions and a padded back.