Please share the link to the torque specs. I would have guessed the small torques would have been given in inch lbs vs ft lbs. Examples in your torque specs and my mid 70s Poulan S25 chainsaw major torques: 1. The only ft lbs torques = flywheel nut 13-15, spark plug 18-22, clutch hub 13-51. 2. Some inch lbs as crank case 55-60, connector rod 55-60, highest carb housing 80-90. 3. All others = low in lbs 20-30. 1/4" drive recommended for in lbs and 3/8" for ft lbs torque. I thought these were interesting comparisons. VWs engines taught me to respect torque specs after rebuilding VWs about 15 yrs. I also made some good torque experiments as torquing a 26 ft lb head bolt before it stripped at about 75 ft lbs. Plus, I was not lucky on some "Real Life" snugging on some aluminum where "O" rings vs gaskets were involved. loger

To see if there is time, check the days to maturity and compare them to your last frost date. For most varieties there is probably time in your zone -- I just planted my winter squash here in zone 7. The true, Dills Atlantic Giant, as raised by giant pumpkin hobbiests, takes an intimidating 10-12feet square though they can be planted in smaller spaces and get smaller pumpkins. More normal pumpkins can be planted in the center of a 3x3 foot square though you can expect the vines to run out further than that. I don't know about other places, but around here it seems fashionable for the professional landscapers to plant a long-vined pumpkin or winter squash in the flower beds to use the large leaves as a dramatic accent and a background for the colorful flowers. If there isn't time for the giant variety this year there is probably still plenty of time for a smaller choice and the giant seeds should still be good next year. :-) Pumpkins are very easy to grow, but they're heavy feeders so you'll want to work plenty of compost into the planting hill and to feed it a couple times during the growing season.

We are also remodeling and have 3 direct vent FPs installed in 1992, rarely used...Majestic brand. (1 in Master BR, 1 in Fam room, 1 in basement). Only working on main floor remodeling now... BR and Fam room. I'm about to head out to a FP store to check out options and am interested to hear any advice out there. I removed the glass front from 2 of the units and copied down model, serial #s, BTUs, etc. info to take with me to the store today. Also taking photos on my laptop. I went to another store yesterday wihtout that info and without knowing the manufacturer name. Sales person was very helpful yesterday, however, and talked about possibility of refacing versus replacing.... mentioned we needed to have it inspected by a chimney sweep and that it would be worth having an HVAC person 1st see if FP unit could be repaired within reasonable cost before replacing. I appreciated her not trying to sell me a new unit right from the start. Now that I know the manufacturer, I'm going to a shop who carries the same brand, although if I'm going to start all over, the new shop will have to work hard to impress me more than the lady from yesterday's shop. Will post any new info I learn.

I had the same problem in a 10+ year old unit. Had a Dr. Appliance person come out 3 times. Then found another fellow who specializes in thermador, subzero, Bosch repair who finally fixed the root problem. It needed to get the motor changed. In our case it was just one side that wasn’t working but I got both sides done. That was maybe 5 years ago and no problem since. I had been close to replacing the entire unit but he said that the unit is good one and should keep it.