Hydrangea Endless Summer "Summer Crush"
3 years ago
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Endless trouble with Endless Summer Hydrangeas
Comments (4)Hi Erica, I'm thinking it was a combination of more fertilizer (which they don't need the first year), the insecticide spray, and the sun! Is it possible that he tender leaves did not like the spray on them and burned in the sun! You may have to cut them back and wait for new growth, but no more bug spray and limit the sun until they get used to it. New plants in pots look great when you buy them but they don't acclimate themselves to the elements for a while. I have a bed of 6 hydrangeas in shade most of the day but they get 2/3 hours of sun in early afternoon and this year we added 3 new plants to the planter and the flowers burned to a crisp on the new ones and the older ones that had been in the ground for a year or so sailed through the heat and sun with no problems! The temps went up to low to mid 90's for several days, and all the hydrangeas in my yard wilted from the heat but the flowers perked up in the evening. Don't be afraid to prune them back if necessary, it will thicken the plant for you and you should still get some blooms later on the remontant types. Good Luck! Donna...See MoreEndless Summer Hydrangea not blooming (zone 3A)
Comments (10)@luis_pr Thank you so very much for the info! I have seen people plant ES on the ground in the spring and dig up and put in a pot and bring inside for the winter. For me, it is almost not possible. 1, the plants are very big now, 3 ft wide and tall, as I bought the 4 gallon ones in the spring. oh well. 2, too much trouble for me and too much shock for the plant. 3, i dont have indoor space and big enough window to give them the light to keep them happy insdie. Artificial light is too much set up again. SO after some search, i will be use the cardboard box method, i think. Here are tentative steps: please help me better this process if something wrong in the procedure lol. Zone 3/4, Edmonton 1) After tree leaves fall, collect leaves in plastic bags. 2) When ES hydrangea leaves are brown and dried, covered them with a cardboard box, fill in dried leaves. 3) Tape the top of the cardboard box, to seal. 4) Secure the bottom with rocks or garden staples. 5) Wrap the box with brown burlap. 6) Wrap again the box with black landscape fabric, to absorb warmth from the sun. 7) Sit for the winter to be over, hopefully lots of snow cover. 8) Remove protection around last spring frost, on May 15 ish. 9) If Frost come back after the fact. using white drop cloth for temporary cover. I also attached a pic of my blue ES (the original) in my yard this year. Isn't this blue out of this world!...See Morenew hydrangea in Summer 2019: Summer Crush
Comments (1)Wowza!...See MoreBest newish plants (perennials/annuals) in your garden (2021 or 20)?
Comments (57)I have a decent sized area full of echinaceas and I've had a few plants over the years have Asters yellows. Most likely from me bringing in another echincea with it. so I've been fine with just pulling the infected plant out. My father built and tended a large public garden area for 15 years and had large patches of susceptible plants. There were some infected rudbeckia that he "enjoyed the look of" and refused to remove. With that said, it doesn't seem to spread incredibly fast by any means. Mite infected plants are being sold just as much as AY plants, so you have to be careful with them too. Besides just removing the infected cones during the season, I've been seemingly successful by just clear cutting my echinacea bed to the ground earlier in the fall when the plants are looking ratty but haven't been knocked back from frosts. I then just remove all the plant debris. The mite infected cones have been reducing year by year....See MoreRelated Professionals
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