Hydrangea Endless Summer "Summer Crush"
whyandrew ON TorontoNorth Z5b
2 years ago
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rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
2 years agowhyandrew ON TorontoNorth Z5b
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Endless trouble with Endless Summer Hydrangeas
Comments (4)Hi Erica, I'm thinking it was a combination of more fertilizer (which they don't need the first year), the insecticide spray, and the sun! Is it possible that he tender leaves did not like the spray on them and burned in the sun! You may have to cut them back and wait for new growth, but no more bug spray and limit the sun until they get used to it. New plants in pots look great when you buy them but they don't acclimate themselves to the elements for a while. I have a bed of 6 hydrangeas in shade most of the day but they get 2/3 hours of sun in early afternoon and this year we added 3 new plants to the planter and the flowers burned to a crisp on the new ones and the older ones that had been in the ground for a year or so sailed through the heat and sun with no problems! The temps went up to low to mid 90's for several days, and all the hydrangeas in my yard wilted from the heat but the flowers perked up in the evening. Don't be afraid to prune them back if necessary, it will thicken the plant for you and you should still get some blooms later on the remontant types. Good Luck! Donna...See MoreEndless Summer Hydrangea not blooming (zone 3A)
Comments (10)@luis_pr Thank you so very much for the info! I have seen people plant ES on the ground in the spring and dig up and put in a pot and bring inside for the winter. For me, it is almost not possible. 1, the plants are very big now, 3 ft wide and tall, as I bought the 4 gallon ones in the spring. oh well. 2, too much trouble for me and too much shock for the plant. 3, i dont have indoor space and big enough window to give them the light to keep them happy insdie. Artificial light is too much set up again. SO after some search, i will be use the cardboard box method, i think. Here are tentative steps: please help me better this process if something wrong in the procedure lol. Zone 3/4, Edmonton 1) After tree leaves fall, collect leaves in plastic bags. 2) When ES hydrangea leaves are brown and dried, covered them with a cardboard box, fill in dried leaves. 3) Tape the top of the cardboard box, to seal. 4) Secure the bottom with rocks or garden staples. 5) Wrap the box with brown burlap. 6) Wrap again the box with black landscape fabric, to absorb warmth from the sun. 7) Sit for the winter to be over, hopefully lots of snow cover. 8) Remove protection around last spring frost, on May 15 ish. 9) If Frost come back after the fact. using white drop cloth for temporary cover. I also attached a pic of my blue ES (the original) in my yard this year. Isn't this blue out of this world!...See MoreHydrangea Summer Crush
Comments (47)Nancy, I would move it now! If it is getting full sun in the afternoon it is too much, Not only will the sun blast it, the reflection off of the white stone pathway and the white board on the left as well as the house are all too much! Reflected light is almost as bright and hot as direct sunlight. The roots will be just fine if you dig them out and make sure that they are not dry. Many times the water will just scoot around a root ball and not penetrate at all. If the roots are dry - soak them in a bucket of water for a couple of hours and then plant in the soil. The best way to know if you have decent drainage in the new spot is to dig the hole, fill with water and see if it drains. If it stays in a puddle, pick a new spot. Test the new spot to make sure it is good. When houses are built, many contractor move soil, rocks and even dump cement on the site and later just cover up the rubbish with fresh soil and that causes problems for the gardens. We move hydrangeas all the time - all seasons and all temps. When you take a plant out of the nursery container, be sure to loosen the root ball and shake as much soil off as possible. You want to plant with as much native soil as possible! Nursery potting soil and native soil can form a barrier and the roots of the plant will never get wet. Don't be afraid that you will kill the plant if you are aggressive with the roots - you will not harm it and then spread out the roots and keep the top of the root ball about 1/2 inch or so above the ground level. Water in the new planting, drain and water again....See MoreEndless Summer Hydrangea-Spring Growth
Comments (12)I know this is an old post but I am hoping someone reads this! These comments are the first that I am hearing of old wood hydrangeas blooming only at the terminal buds. I am in 7a on the new england coast and everyone has endless summers and nearly everyone seems to prune theirs back quite short at the end of the season for aesthetic reasons. Aside from last year (where we had weird weather) the hydrangeas have been fine. I am so worried now as I have just pruned the dead flowerheads off my hydrangeas… the flower stalks are all quite tall and filled with buds but now I am worried that I inadvertently snipped off the most important flowering bud! Would greatly appreciate any further insight and best practices about this!...See Morerouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)
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rouge21_gw (CDN Z5b/6a)