Here's a pic of my pond that is (sealed) brick walled/concrete bottom, but below ground. It's about 10' x 8' x 2.5' deep, plus the small leg. It's around 19 yrs old, and has several large cracks- in the mortar and cracked brick. (I just purchased the home it came with recently and have been trying to fix the cracks myself with hydraulic cement- But it's difficult to locate some of them as was suggested.) I've heard the previous owner had it repaired at least twice and I assume gave up before deciding to sell. Also, I'm in Ohio so temperature differences from seasons are more drastic = more cracks.. I think a great scenerio since you have the materials would be to create an outer brick wall, but keep the inner portion all liner. If I can't repair the cracks well enough and get more leaks after next winter, there will be a liner in the future!

The testing company sent 3 to map our home and ground on all sides. Inside they took pictures of the cracks. Using water mounted atop a tripod with a long connected plastic tube they checked all rooms on the bottom floor to see if they were level. Also asked if we had noticed any hollow sounds in any of our 900 sq. ft. of porcelain tile floors. We haven't but in 2002 there was big hollow areas in the broken quarry tile floors we had then. We replaced that with porcelain tile. This company is owned by 3 P.E's that also have taught at a Florida university. Outside they checked the top 12 feet of soil with a ground penitrating ?????. They used many many long tape measurers to make a grid of the grounds---marking (took measurements) every few feet. I wanted to ask them from their testing did anything show up but they left before I could ask. Two facts I had not considered before. ONE---a couple years ago my daughter thought our in ground gunite pool was loseing water (faster than normal evaporation). Had a leak detector guy out for $300.00 who said he patched a couple of small cracks near the tile along the upper edge. If there is still a leak it is very small. SECOND---about 20 feet out from the cracked corner of our home the roots of a big oak tree rotted and the tree fell falling away from the house. The incharge guy today said as the long roots, that remain in the ground that we don't see, rot the soil around them can become less stable. If the tree roots created the problem I hope our insurance covers it. Next Tuesday (April 28)is the day they drill test holes. The company subs out this work. Will report later.

Weep holes are seldom done in residential construction in my experience. I have never seen a code requiring them(could be though). While they are recommended in commercial construction, they are part of a drainage system of through wall flashing & often a mortar baffle that helps keep the weep holes clear of mortar. The flashing intercepts any water & directs it to the weeps. I would not add weep holes to a wall not designed for them. I doubt if they would work & would more likely cause trouble or damage. If their are no water issues at this point their most likely won't be.

It's not damaging the foundation. The foundation probably has a crack that is telegraphing through the stone facade. I doubt that it indicates a major problem, but only a structural engineer could say for sure. You could fix the crack by re-pointing the mortar, but that involves grinding a larger channel into the crack and them re-mortaring. And since the color of the new mortar would stand out, you would just draw attention to the cracked area. Also, there is nothing to guarantee that the crack wouldn't open up in the future. If you're concerned about the cosmetic appearance, there are caulks that are mortar colored, and, if you did a careful job of caulking only into the cracks, the fix would be more flexible and less noticeable than a re-pointing job. I will also point out that, since this is an area under a window, it could indicate that excess drainage from the sill is getting behind the facade and causing issues.