When I planted a tree at my daughter's school, I was afraid that the hundreds of kids on the playground would pull twigs off the small tree and rip the bark. So I planted some other plants at the base of the tree to distract them. I planted mini-roses not for the thorns, but so the girls could come and pick flowers instead of leaves and twigs off the tree. And I planted a lavender, and a daisy so they could pick those flowers too. This was on a school playing feild with hundreds of kids at recess, so I did have to put three tree stakes around it, and I wrapped three foot tall hog wire around that. The flowers grew right through the 4" hogwire until you couldn't see the fence, and the flowers were picked off right up to the fence line. It's almost like the kids 'mow' or hedgeprune the bushes and leave the tree alone, even though they could easily reach it.

I use it for 2 years and it works! "I have used a similar solution for years. (We have 30-40 deer every night feeding on the field next to us and some adventuresome deer always manage to sneak in under the dog's nose.) Fill a 4 litre milk jug almost to the top with water. Take one egg. Whisk or beat the egg really well, DO NOT STRAIN. Pour into milk jug and close lid. Shake back and forth to mix. Now, pour some into a small squirt bottle and as you are walking around your acreage or yard mist the plants you do not want the deer to eat. You do not have to POUR the solution on your plants, a little mist goes a long way. Rain will wash it off. I reapply after EVERY rain or dew and otherwise about once a week, if no rain. I have NEVER noticed a smell of rotten eggs on my plants in hot weather. The mixture will smell if left unused for a few days and you will smell the solution as you are misting with old solution, but it goes away as it dries..... my garden does not smell in hot weather. The protein smell deters the deer. You can spray your plants with fresh or days-old mixture, both work. My spray bottle has been used for about 4 years and has NEVER "gummed up". Better solution... permanent solution...an eight foot fence or deer hunting season."

One problem with mice traps is that once the trap has sprung, if you aren't right there to clean it out, it is no longer effective for other mice in the area. My father had a cabin in the woods that would be vacant for long periods of time. A friend of his suggested this home-made trap that keeps on working. Fill a 5 gallon pail with several inches of water. Take an empty soda or beer can and poke a hole in the bottom. String a wire through the can and suspend it over the water by tying it to the handles of the pail. Smear peanut butter on the can and rest a piece of wood against the side of the pail so the mice can climb to the rim. They will jump onto the can to eat the PB, and spin the can and drop into the water. You may end up with a mess in the pail, but it will keep working until you get a chance to empty it.

Hey Petey_racer thanks for the reply. Did find a diagram on POCO guide it was buried on page 91 of 93. It matches the "knuckle buster" bend I was nervous about (load side right lug). For the record I think residential and the the industrial/factory electrical fields are two different animals. Alot of people assume because I spend my days running NEMA 12 wireways and wiring control panels with hundreds of low voltage cables that I'm also an fully capable of wiring a new home. My sister just built a new home and I had a friend that works on the work residential side of my company wire her house and I couldn't believe the code requirements and the amount of Romex he ended up using. Took one look at realized I'm not even gonna try that game. I grabbed a 40' of nema 1 lay in wireway we tore out at work and am running from my panel across my basement and tapping off it with pipe to a 6x6 jbox in each closet and I'll pick up my circuits from there. FYI I think can get 30 current carrying conductors in a wireway.