Yep, I agree with mayland--we're using cut-down kitchen cabs as our bath cabs (master bath). DH cut them down to 22", we're using a 1/4" plywood backing instead of the backing they come with, and he cut new cam holes (we also glue and clamp). No problem. They can handle any top you want. I was VERY disappointed in the quality of the bath cabinetry, myself. Maybe for a powder room, but never for anything that really gets used. I'm also putting an extra coat of waterlox on the Hallarum doors/panels we got to use on them. We had an extra coat of conversion varnish put on the kitchen Hallarums--it's made them so easy to clean and very tough, but the refinishing guy wouldn't handle such a small job as our bathroom doors/panels :(. So I'm doing waterlox myself. Some extra kind of finish is strongly recommended, IMO--can't hurt, will help. ACTUALLY, I take it back on *one* account: the particular washbasin we're getting for DD's room--it's the one that's open underneath and is all birch. I'm actually going to take the top off and put silestone slab ontop, and a bigger drop in sink. But the rest of it looks pretty sturdy, and I hope the matching tall storage piece will be too (I'll see when Ikea opens close to use in about 30 days! -- we were using one that's about 2.5 hours away, but we won't have to for much longer :)). The actual bath vanity *cabinets* I would not recommend.

The reasons for not using an Ikea vanity are: -Already used one in guest bedroom. -Color choices very limited. White won't work (that's what I used in the guest bathroom) due to color scheme (which is mostly white carrera marble). The "wood" effects looked really fake and cheap to me. Gray gloss could work, but do I want the same cabinets in my bathroom as my kitchen? -The vanity will not fit wall to wall and there are no panels to make it do so. That leaves a useless gap/wasted space on each side of the vanity. -The vanity drawers are impractical for storing cleaning products/taller items. In my guest bath, I cannot store bottles like windex, etc. -In the other bath, to wall mount the vanity required extensive reinforcing. In other words, tearing the walls open. I was hoping to avoid that. The vanities connect in very specific specific point to the wall (which is almost never the stud). The kitchen cabinets use a rail.

I know i'm answering an old thread and the OP certainly doesn't need this info anymore, but there's a lack of solid information about this IKEA hack on the internet. Hopefully this helps someone. I just went through the trouble of doing this, and while it is doable, it's unlikely I'll do it again. I certainly won't install them the way IKEA calls for in their manual. This obviously isn't a step-by-step, but I wanted to share the trickier parts of my installation. When using the Maximera drawers with the Sektion base cabinets, you can cut the depth down to 22". Any more than that and you'll likely run into problems. When you cut the depth down, you are introducing potential clearance issues with the drawers and the Sektion L-brackets that mount the cabinet to the wall. I have less than a 1/16" clearance between the white plastic bracket cover on the Sektion and soft close mechanism on the Maximara drawer glides (pictured). I also opted to drill the holes for those metal brackets lower down the cabinet to ensure the drawers wouldn't interfere. Where you choose to mount those brackets will depend on which size of top drawer you use (if you are using a bank of drawers). If you change the location of the brackets, you'll likely need to cut the cabinet back a bit lower on each side to allow for that. While cutting down the depth of the cabinets was definitely doable, I had bigger issues with the general way in which the cabinets install. If I had it to do over again I would build a plywood base to set the cabinets on instead of using the metal hanging rail and the plastic adjustable legs. Those legs are truly awful. They are flimsy in just about every way imaginable and I spent a good amount of time fighting them. Additionally, once I had everything in, I honestly didn't have a lot of confidence in the strength of those legs, so I ended up cutting some 4" plywood pieces and used shims underneath them so they would provide additional support underneath the cabinets. Building a base, shimming it level, and screwing it to the wall would have saved a significant amount of time and made for a sturdier installation. If I had built a base, I would have no issue skipping the metal hanging rail and simply using heavy duty hollow wall anchors to attach the cabinets to the wall. I also ran into issues because the hanging rail and plastic spacers which attach to the back of the cabinets at the bottom assume a plumb and flat wall across the whole span. This was not the case with my house. Removing those white spacers and using wood shims was the way to go. This isn't an issue that's created when you cut the depth down. It would apply to all installations unless you have a perfect wall. Also, buy the Sektion reinforced top rail and use those instead of the flimsy ones they package with the cabinets. They should be standard. So, those are my big lessons learned. I'm satisfied with the outcome, but I'm not sure it was worth the trouble. Let me know if you have questions. I'll try to help. Pic of clearances. This could be increased a touch by skipping the white plastic cover.

Blubird is obviously anxious that the standard American P-trap is absent. If the space saving siphon meets local code and was installed by a licensed plumber and passed inspection then all is well, but I'm pretty sure that this install would not meet code where I live.