Ikea Sektion cabinets for bathroom???
Comments (10)
PROPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agomass36 thanked Patricia Colwell Consultingm_gabriel
4 years agoWe used Sektion cabinets in our hall/kids bath and I really like them! Honestly, we do not really need all the space in the drawers/cabinets so maybe it was a bit overkill but it's what I really wanted. We installed at full size/height. We also have Hemnes vanities in our master and, like Patricia says above, the actual vanities are really nice and may be better scaled to your space.
Hemnes in master. Contractor installed them flush to each other. I wasn't there to make the final decision due to a death in the family. I think I pictured them slightly separated but I think he made the right call due to some space issues.
mass36 thanked m_gabrielRelated Discussions
Ikea bathroom vanities and sinks?
Comments (5)Yep, I agree with mayland--we're using cut-down kitchen cabs as our bath cabs (master bath). DH cut them down to 22", we're using a 1/4" plywood backing instead of the backing they come with, and he cut new cam holes (we also glue and clamp). No problem. They can handle any top you want. I was VERY disappointed in the quality of the bath cabinetry, myself. Maybe for a powder room, but never for anything that really gets used. I'm also putting an extra coat of waterlox on the Hallarum doors/panels we got to use on them. We had an extra coat of conversion varnish put on the kitchen Hallarums--it's made them so easy to clean and very tough, but the refinishing guy wouldn't handle such a small job as our bathroom doors/panels :(. So I'm doing waterlox myself. Some extra kind of finish is strongly recommended, IMO--can't hurt, will help. ACTUALLY, I take it back on *one* account: the particular washbasin we're getting for DD's room--it's the one that's open underneath and is all birch. I'm actually going to take the top off and put silestone slab ontop, and a bigger drop in sink. But the rest of it looks pretty sturdy, and I hope the matching tall storage piece will be too (I'll see when Ikea opens close to use in about 30 days! -- we were using one that's about 2.5 hours away, but we won't have to for much longer :)). The actual bath vanity *cabinets* I would not recommend....See MoreIkea bathrooms? Would love to see pics.
Comments (8)WEll. I don't know if this is helpful, but... I drove over 3 hours to get bathroom fixtures for our master bath but when I got it all home we decided to return it. It's not really the product's fault, though... I'd seen the new Godmorgon line last time I was there and really liked it a lot. Unlike most of their other bath cabs, the fasteners aren't visible; the cabinets do look a little more substantial and expensive than most of theirs. (In fact they are more expensive than most of Ikea's). The Braviken vanity tops, especially the thick ones, are pretty lovely in person. It's a resin and crushed marble composite... basically cultured marble I guess but nice and rich looking and substantial. Anyway we needed a medium wood tone and they only have a lovely blonde, a great glossy modern white, and dark brown. One day I saw they had a new color and drove down to see it in person. It's so new there wasn't one on the floor, so they pulled a sample piece from storeroom for me to see. I liked the finish/color OK so I bought $1000 worth (you have to buy the legs, top, etc all separately...). When I got it home and unpacked it, realized that the drawer design was totally different than the other colors, and I did NOT like it. Way too retro-70s. A big disappointment. Now we're having ot custom made which costs 4x as much :( We are keeping the legs though, for the custom cabinet. There's a great line of wall cabinets and amazingly inexpensive mirrors that coordinates, too. This Godmorgon line looks really nice in person, much nicer than it does in the Ikea catalogs, which I feel are styled pretty cheaply. if you google Ikea bathroom, or Ikea vanity, and choose "images" you'll find some shots of "real-life" Ikea baths. I thought the interior of the Godmorgon was really nice, too. Nice solid-birch slatted drawers. Not dove-tailed but still seemed a definite step above the typical Home Depot type vanity! I do know there are some GW who've used the Hollviken sink tops and love them. I was going to keep the Braviken for our custom vanity but chickened out because I was worried about scratching it. I just like good old ceramic better!...See MoreIkea Sektion Fridge Panel Question
Comments (0)Hi All, I've used Ikea Akurum for my kitchen and 3 of my bathrooms. Love them all. Finally doing my last bathroom and now it's Sektion. I have successfully hacked the cabinets to make them floating but am wanting to use the Sektion Ekestad 36x96 cover panel as a counter top. The top would be 50x22. It's the guest bathroom and it won't get much use. I will probably spray some clear enamel on it for protection and I also have a good exhaust fan in there. However, I have family who visit for weeks at a time. Do you think it will stand up to the moisture?...See MoreIkea Sektion: dark fronts, white cabinet boxes
Comments (19)This is very helpful! I am facing the same dilemma. I've chosen the Jutis frosted glass doors and the glossy gray Ringhult panels for the sides. But I could not decide on the white vs. the brown cabinet boxes. I was considering the brown boxes, but I was concerned about it being too dark on the insides. After reading this, I'm now leaning toward the white boxes, and possibly using the edge band around the fronts -- perhaps in a metalic/gray color to match the aluminum doors. I'll be happy to share photos once it's complete. Thanks to all for your input!...See Morearialechat
3 years agom_gabriel
3 years agoarialechat
3 years agocej22
last yearlast modified: last yearI know i'm answering an old thread and the OP certainly doesn't need this info anymore, but there's a lack of solid information about this IKEA hack on the internet. Hopefully this helps someone. I just went through the trouble of doing this, and while it is doable, it's unlikely I'll do it again. I certainly won't install them the way IKEA calls for in their manual. This obviously isn't a step-by-step, but I wanted to share the trickier parts of my installation.
When using the Maximera drawers with the Sektion base cabinets, you can cut the depth down to 22". Any more than that and you'll likely run into problems. When you cut the depth down, you are introducing potential clearance issues with the drawers and the Sektion L-brackets that mount the cabinet to the wall. I have less than a 1/16" clearance between the white plastic bracket cover on the Sektion and soft close mechanism on the Maximara drawer glides (pictured). I also opted to drill the holes for those metal brackets lower down the cabinet to ensure the drawers wouldn't interfere. Where you choose to mount those brackets will depend on which size of top drawer you use (if you are using a bank of drawers). If you change the location of the brackets, you'll likely need to cut the cabinet back a bit lower on each side to allow for that.
While cutting down the depth of the cabinets was definitely doable, I had bigger issues with the general way in which the cabinets install. If I had it to do over again I would build a plywood base to set the cabinets on instead of using the metal hanging rail and the plastic adjustable legs. Those legs are truly awful. They are flimsy in just about every way imaginable and I spent a good amount of time fighting them. Additionally, once I had everything in, I honestly didn't have a lot of confidence in the strength of those legs, so I ended up cutting some 4" plywood pieces and used shims underneath them so they would provide additional support underneath the cabinets. Building a base, shimming it level, and screwing it to the wall would have saved a significant amount of time and made for a sturdier installation. If I had built a base, I would have no issue skipping the metal hanging rail and simply using heavy duty hollow wall anchors to attach the cabinets to the wall.
I also ran into issues because the hanging rail and plastic spacers which attach to the back of the cabinets at the bottom assume a plumb and flat wall across the whole span. This was not the case with my house. Removing those white spacers and using wood shims was the way to go. This isn't an issue that's created when you cut the depth down. It would apply to all installations unless you have a perfect wall.
Also, buy the Sektion reinforced top rail and use those instead of the flimsy ones they package with the cabinets. They should be standard.
So, those are my big lessons learned. I'm satisfied with the outcome, but I'm not sure it was worth the trouble. Let me know if you have questions. I'll try to help.
Pic of clearances. This could be increased a touch by skipping the white plastic cover.
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