The thing about "aesthetics" is that they are mutable within a particular culture over time. If they weren't we wouldn't think that avocado appliances are "ugly". We might think that they are dated, but we wouldn't equate dated with ugly. And people like Jonathan Hale feel that modern culture has actually lost the ability to discern the difference between aesthetics based upon true classical proportions from aesthetics based upon a "symbolic" cartoonish representation of an architectural style: i.e. Is it a real Georgian style house, or is it a contemporary house with the symbols of Georgian architecture tacked on. He posits that most people can't tell the difference, and also to some extent that modern culture may prefer the cartoon to the real thing even if they can tell the difference. ----- The thing about "code" and "requirements" and "guidelines" is this: it only matters what your locale says about code in your locale. So it may be 36" aisles and exterior ventilation where you live, and that is all well and good, but I don't think people should insist on imposing it where it may not be a requirement, even if it's a great idea. The kitchens I posted are exceptions to what one sees nationally but in old Eastern seaboard cities, this sort of thing is not uncommon. And the reality is yes, they're grandfathered and some of these dimensions would not be allowable in new construction, but--if they were a serious threat to safety they would be unallowable remodels even in preexisting structures and the structures themselves might be condemned. There are buildings here where the top floors (say where staff used to live) are "uninhabitable" due to ceiling heights of 6' and lack of means of egress, for example.

Update: The pyrolave is a match. We will meet with the carpenter in 2 weeks. We are planning to repaint the cabinets. They are 20 years old now so as much as it pains me to paint over something that is working I think it will make everything more cohesive and it's probably "time" to paint the cabinets. We are considering BM Edgecomb Gray which seems to work with the countertops. The actual limited painted kitchen walls are currently BM Navajo White. I think that will still work. I may have to repaint trim and the ceiling. From what I have found on line it sounds like BM Dove White is a good choice. It's all northern exposure. I am leaning toward a stained island but using pyrolave for all the countertops. I am also considering a painted island. I think the stain may warm up all that stone. Question now: We cannot match exactly the marble tile and we are putting in one little section of open shelves in place of the hutch (over the new counter). Should we just have a painted wall behind the shelves or try to get some sort of matching tile to the kitchen tile across the room? Or should we use the countertop pyrolave as a small back splash? Do we paint the coffered ceiling beams to match the cabinets?

Selecting a kitchen designer Remodeling a kitchen? What can you expect? If you are remodeling a kitchen, and you are using custom cabinetry, expect to leave a deposit with your design firm. There are two popular formats followed by most companies. They are 50/40/10 and 40/50/10. What does that mean to you? It means that you will be expected to leave a 50% deposit when ordering, 40% payment when the cabinetry is delivered and 10% on completion or substantial completion. The term substantial completion is something you should understand. Many companies will expect the final payment on substantial completion. This means that the project is substantially complete, possibly missing a knob or a piece of molding. It is unfair to hold back thousands of dollars for a small item. However, if the company is not reliable, this payment system can cause undue heartache for the consumer. Since the company has received virtually all of its funds, there is no monetary incentive for them to return. This is why it is important for you to make sure you are dealing with a company with a good reputation. How can you determine if the company has a good reputation? The first place to look is their relationship with NKBA (National Kitchen and Bath Association). Members are supposed to keep to the standards of the NKBA. Secondly, look at your local BBB for advice. Most importantly, talk to your friends. If you know of someone who has had a kitchen remodel, ask them about their experience. Lastly, use your "gut" feelings! If you feel uncomfortable at all during the initial presentation, do not go forward. What should you expect before you make a buying decision? You should expect to see a designer's portfolio. The portfolio should have before and after pictures, floor plans, letters from past clients. If the designer does not have a portfolio, we suggest you move on. Your designer should be able to give you a clear vision of what he or she can do for you as well as a price range for the project. Giving the designer a budget is the best way for you to lead your designer toward the best products and design for you. What you should NOT expect before making a buying decision. You should not expect to receive drawings. Sadly, the kitchen industry has lagged many of the professional industries such as architects. You would never expect an architect to produce drawings prior to engaging him or her in the form of payment. If your designer is a good designer, he or she should not be expected to work for free. What do you need to know in order to make a buying decision? Interestingly enough, making a buying decision is easy if you have the answers to all the questions required to make that decision. Often, designers fail to offer all the answers. This is why it can be frustrating for you, the consumer, to make an educated choice. Here is what you should look for. Does the company have a good reputation? If you do not know about the company, do some research. The company is the most important factor in deciding where to make your investment. For example; if the company has a reputation for delays, or worse yet does not follow up on details, do you want to invest with them? The best designer working for a company with a bad reputation can be a disaster. If there is a catastrophic problem, can the company back up the designer? If there is an expensive problem, can the company afford to make things right? Here are just a few potential problems that we have seen over the years. a. Cabinet color or style ordered wrong by the designer b. Cabinet manufacturer makes the cabinetry in the wrong color or style by mistake c. Designer measures wrong and some cabinetry does not fit d. Designer does not order enough molding to finish the job e. Designer does not take care to assure that all appliances will fit properly These are just a few of the potential problems that can arise. Make sure the company you deal with can afford and will be willing, to make things right in the event of an expensive problem. Does the designer have the capability of doing the project properly? The designer should have some schooling. Ask to see credentials. Look at their portfolio. They should have before and after photos of projects, they have managed. Also, ask for referrals. Most importantly ask for at least one referral where there were problems. The character of a company is measured by what they do when there is a problem. Does the company have products you like? Before going too far, make sure the company has products you like. If there is nothing available in the style or price range you are comfortable with, don't waste your time or theirs Will the project fit your budget? Don't be bashful. The biggest waste of time is when consumers hide their budget. If you give your budget to a reputable firm, you can be assured that you will receive the best value for your investment. If you have no idea what to budget, ask! Your designer should be able to give you reliable price range estimates on your project at the first meeting. This ability is the sign of a seasoned pro! A true functional kitchen is much more difficult to design. The designer must get to know you and your family habits. The designer must know if you are right or left-handed, the type of cooking you do, how you shop, how many will be in the kitchen and so forth. The designer must take inventory of the types of things you will store in your kitchen as well as the "style" of entertaining. This is not a fast process, but well worth the time spent. A good designer is not easy to find. When you find one, don't get cheap and try and find a lesser expensive solution. You will save money in the long run with a good designer.

Hi folks - THANK YOU for all of this incredible information. I have spent a good amount of time digging into all of this over the past few weeks and it’s been fun, daunting, and really educational. It’s led me to realize I likely shouldn’t go with a vent a hood as I originally was thinking. Based on what I’ve read so far, I’m leaning towards an Accurex setup with a 72” hood or another similar commercial custom hood (need to figure out what other good options are in this space). However, I have two questions for you experts if you don’t mind continuing to share your wisdom: As you worked through your setups, how does one go about figuring out the Thermal updraft velocity (feet per min) for a new range / oven combo? I saw examples in the green heck KVS guide but can’t understand how they came up with these estimates, and I have to believe they vary across different appliances, or for appliances that incorporate multiple elements on top of each other like a range and oven and/or warming drawer. How does one go about finding an engineer or professional to help design these type of systems, including the MUA system? I’m in the San Francisco Bay Area in case folks have recommendations for specific people. I’m a bit lost here and apologies for the really basic question but I’m not even sure if I’d hire someone like an HVAC professional/engineer to do this, if some kitchen design folks have this expertise, etc. I am guessing that each manufacturer has folks that do this for their products, but I’d love someone who is independent and could help me piece together the right system across multiple manufacturers if that ends up being the best approach since I’m not sure if Accurex makes all of the MUA components I’d need. While I am really enjoying learning about this myself and do have an engineering background (it’s electrical, though, not mechanical!), I think this is an area where I’d love the guidance of someone who has built many of these systems and knows well what works and doesn’t. Thanks again for all of your advice!