Looking for the best rug to use in my kitchen with new hardwood floors
Wendy A
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Wendy A
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoRelated Discussions
Should I cover my new hardwoods with a rug?
Comments (61)I remember when you got those new sofas and how much I loved them. Now, with your beautiful wood flooring, everything is looking super! I feel a rug would go nicely, there. You have already received lots of good advice & suggestions from other posters. I'll throw in another option for you to consider. For my home, I've used washable Latex backed rugs from JCPenney. I know many people will cringe at the mention of Latex backing in contact with wood floors. I've heard that some factory pre-finished floors will be fine with these (Latex backed) types of rugs. I'm keeping a close eye as the months go by and so far (it's been 1 year), all is good. My floors are engineered wood by Lauzon. These rugs are not as plush as other more expensive rugs, but they are fine for me. I have not had the need to wash them, yet. When I do, I'll try the smaller one (5'x8' family room) first and see how it goes. I'll use a commercial front load "mega capacity" washer & then hang to dry. The 8 x 10 living room may just need to be washed by hand/hose in the backyard one sunny day. If you have a JC Penney near by, rugs can be returned if you don't like them. Also, don't pay full price! JCP always has sales. My 5 x 8 Double Border rug was $170, the 8x10 Majestic Scroll was $220 (including tax & free ship). The fibers are Nylon and they are made in the U.S.A. These rugs are not absorbing dirt hardly at all. My Olefin fiber rug in the entry (ordered from an online rug store) became dirty looking after only 3 months : ( I also do not like the feel of the Olefin rug. Pictured below is the 8 x 10 JCPenney Majestic Scroll rug (color: Sand) in my living room. I don't have a coffee table or ottoman, yet. This open space is where grand baby practices rolling over & his toddler cousin builds Lego creations : ) Here is a link that might be useful: JCPenney Rugs...See MoreBest type of rug to protect hardwood floors in kitchen?
Comments (22)Shipping is expensive, but I received them very quickly. Backings are made from latex and nitrile rubber (Multi-grip), see the link for a description of two types. They stay very flat, no curling, and have a very low profile. I have them on all three of my exterior doors. The great thing about them are that they can easily be machine washed in a normal washer and drier. They are not bulky! I went through a couple of those expensive gel mats which both curled after a couple years which made them look bad....See MoreNew Hardwood over Old Hardwood?
Comments (9)My concern is the layers of vinyl underneath the hardwood. Hardwood doesn't like sitting on vinyl and vinyl doesn't like sitting on hardwood. The two do NOT like each other. If you think this is a good idea (which it is considered on the technical side of things a horrible approach to this) then you might have to add another layer of subfloor. A nice, fat, thick 1/2" plywood to cover those two layers of vinyl. Now you can go ahead and lay the hardwood. Technically, my suggestion is hideous. It is atrocious. It is so "unprofessional" that I could weep. But if you insist on leaving the vinyl in place, then you need to think of a way to separate the vinyl from the hardwood sitting on top....and one very sure way is with plywood. Again, my suggestion is a travesty. Then again so is laying hardwood over two layers of vinyl. In the flooring world, we 'allow' ONE layer of resistant flooring (like vinyl) to sit underneath another floor. For example: the first layer of vinyl was considered "OK" to lay another layer of vinyl over top. All good. No one in the technical department batted an eye. If a THIRD vinyl floor was proposed (or a laminate, or linoleum, or cork, or hardwood, or tile, or even carpet) it would be a "NOOOOOOOO! STOOOOOP! DON'T DO IT!" type of answer. So I will officially say: No. Stop. Don't do it. There. It has been said. That being said, if you as the homeowner choose to forgo the installation instructions and the "Best Practices" as set out by the National Wood Flooring Association (as homeowners your word is "law" when it comes to things like this), you are welcome to go ahead and lay hardwood over two layers of vinyl. If you do it, I suggest a new layer of plywood to help things along - because you need FLAT. And most "old hardwoods with two layers of vinyl sitting on them" are anything but flat. Good luck. You would be better off remediating the asbestos/vinyl and getting down to bare hardwood. Now a new floor (with the help of a layer of plywood) can go down. Or you remove the original hardwood with the vinyl (this is easier to do than scrape off the vinyl...and easier = cheaper) and start with a new layer of subfloor and go after it like it should be done. But as homeowner your word is "law". If you tell a professional to "just do it", they will say "yes ma'am/sir" and do it. But they will not warranty their work. You will be left holding the bag - and all the pit vipers that lay inside. It's your call....See MoreBest Practice for order of install/finish new hardwood floors?
Comments (12)It's possible to get the sanding, sealing and two coats of finish done. The FULL CURE must happen (Bona Traffic HD is 5-10 days) = NO ONE working in the house...AT ALL. Then the Ram Board is put down and the kitchen goes ahead with install. Once everything is all set up, a final coat is applied to the entire home and another FULL CURE (5-10 days) occurs before you move in/reno finishes. So the question becomes, do you want to have ONE cure time...or two? Do you have TIME to allow the floors to FULLY CURE before the kitchen goes in? Are you willing to accept a bit of damage to a finished floor? Personally I would get the floor in and leave it. The kitchen goes in over the raw wood. Leave the trim and toe kicks OFF. Get all the wet work done (painting, tiling, etc). Bring in the flooring professional once the kitchen is FINISHED...and allow him/her to do his/her job without interruption and without any pressure. Any issues the subs caused to the floors will be dealt with by the sand/refinish process. The trim gets put in place once the floors are finished. Now you wait the 5-10 days for the cure and move in....See Moretaliaferro
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agoToronto Veterinarian
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoLisa Caudill Designs
3 years agocheri127
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agocheri127
3 years agoWendy A
3 years agoWendy A
3 years agocrcollins1_gw
3 years ago
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