Andersen Windows - E-Series or A-Series

Things can can complicated on a new build when trying to use a good window , especially vinyl when working with a builder. Many of the top brands of vinyl are not available to builders and things get more complicated and a bit more expensive when trying to bring a third party in. I’d expect a big jump in price if switching to A wood window or to vinyl window not available to your general contractor. Sounds like your in the Midwest , so there many good options available. I’d ask your builder what other brands they have access to for starters. What type of windows are these? Casements , double hung, awning or sliders? I n all fairness to Lindsay I’m am not familiar with there whole line up . It is not uncommon for a brand. To have a better window. Inn one one configuration than another.

@HomeSealed Exteriors, LLC Thank you! I am located in the Mid-West. I am more concerned about the function of my windows and not so much about aesthetics.

@Lori Behrens What makes you recommend Anderson? I've heard both good and bad things on this particular brand so I'd be interested in hearing your experience!

If you're in the midwest, winters can be especially brutal, making window performance (coupled with budget) a top priority. I echo what HomeSealed Exteriors, LLC said above regarding air-sealing and function. Good luck!

I have the Anderson windows 100 series made with Fibrex and low E glass. I had these windows and a slider door installed about 2 years ago ( they replaced 30 year old Anderson windows). The Fibrex material is a composite of reclaimed wood fiber blended with a polymer: won’t flake, rust, blister,crack, pit or corrode. It resists warping and bowing. We got them with the Low-E4 SmartSun glass that gives highest efficiency rating in cool and hot weather and blocks 95% of UV rays that can damage drapes and furniture. The windows look great, are easy to clean and have reduced my gas heating bill.

I’d stay away from the Low-E 4 especially in the upper MidWest. I would not use the 100 single hungs either, there casements , awnings and slider are ok though.

I've always used and specified Andersen windows, usually the 400 series. They are reasonably priced and give good value, plus they're available almost everywhere. And you can customize sizes if necessary. I would NOT recommend all-vinyl windows.

Pella and Marvin are upgrades and more expensive. You would not go wrong with either one if you can afford them.

All of these manufacturers have a range of different models so they can compete with each other. Even the Andersen 400 series has two different models so its usually pointless to discuss the brands unless you're comparing warrantees and customer service.

The 400 is little unique , the double hungs use an outdated jambliner , and the casement is pretty much a vinyl sash with a wood frame. Both of these would need to be finished on the interior. I would not use Pella‘s wood , vinyl or fiberglass products. There are many quality only products in your area, many pro‘s here will back the better brands but not the cheap builder grade vinyl that most builders use.

I’d stay away from the Low-E 4 especially in the upper MidWest

Todd,

Low-E4 is an AW designation identifying an overall glass package (I believe that it originally referred to the combination of LoE coating, argon, NEAT coating, and Preserve film), and was not to intended to refer to a specific coating.

LoE²-272 is the coating used in the standard Low-E4 package while Low-E4 SmartSun uses 366, SunGlass is 240, and Passive is 180.

When Andersen introduced the Low-E4 label, there were no 4-layer LowE coatings, but now with the recent introduction of Quad LoE-452+, that is no longer true.

Since the Quad LoE-452 name is a departure from previous coating designations, I would bet that could be due to Andersen's previous use of Low-E4.

Sounds about right, I got confused with a surface 4 Low-E coating vs Low-E4.

I always find recommendations from architects interesting given that they aren't the party being called 10-20 years later when the windows have failed. A blanket statement of "I would NOT recommend all vinyl windows" is a pretty good indicator that one should move on from any advice pertaining to windows from that source.

Also interesting that one would recommend partial vinyl windows? Is vinyl a suitable window material or is it not? I'd imagine that the exterior and its exposure to the elements would be a good enough test of its mettle to qualify it for indoor use, no?

I suppose I shouldn't complain, recommendations like these keep the replacement window business booming, so thank you for that!

Todd, that makes sense.

The Andersen 400 is offered as the Woodwright (vinyl clad wood frame with a Fibrex vinyl & wood composite clad wood sash) and the Tilt-Wash (same frame with an epoxy painted wood sash). I can't remember if they have different sash balancers.

res2....

if choosing Andersen 400, would you recommend the the Woodwright or the Tilt-wash?

I preferred the 400 Woodwright for years because the thickness of the 400 Tilt-Wash sash forced exterior mullions to be flat which was unacceptable for my projects. That was eventually changed so the windows now look almost the same if you don't mind the protruding glass stop.

The frames are the same; the sash balances are different and I have no way of knowing for sure how durable the PPG Flexacron epoxy paint is. Its used for other all-wood windows. I don't know if Adnersen treats the wood sash with a preservative like Pella does on their roll-form aluminum clad windows.

I guess the Tilt-Wash might be a reasonable alternative if the budget couldn't accommodate the Woodwirght and the home owner didn't intend to live in the house forever but it would also depend on how competitive the price for the Marvin Elevate fiberglass windows was. At this point its unlikely I will ever use the Tilt-Wash.

TILT-WASH on the left; WOODWRIGHT on the right

Ok...Thank you.

this advice is for my daughter. They can’t afford the Marvin Ultimate but you mentioned the Marvin Elevate. Is it a good window?

would it be wise to price the Marvin Elevate fiberglass windows against the Andersen 400? they are planning for the Andersen 400 as of now.

Tea...thank you for letting me get advice on your thread.

I would get a price for the Elevate as well. Whenever I can avoid PVC I try to do so.

I just designed the total renovation of a 2 1/2 story 1910 Colonial Revival. For the replacement windows we used Marvin Ultimate aluminum clad wood double-hungs on the ground floor and the front of the second floor but Marvin Elevate fiberglass clad wood double-hungs for the rest of the house.

To me the major difference is the interior appearance of the top of the lower sash. The Elevate is a bit clunky and the Ultimate is so clean you can't tell it from the original windows. No one else seems to have taken any notice of the difference.

I love the Elevate; its just not suitable for historic restoration.

Ultimate - false latch releases pins in the jambs, top of sash perfectly clean, windows automatically lock

Elevate - jamb release and cap on top of lower sash, conventional latch at center

I haven't read through all the suggestions here, so my comment might be a duplicate. You must talk to your builder. It is all about the warranty. You have to make sure that your pick of the window doesn't void the contractor warranty though the window itself has a manufacturer warranty. Talk to your contractor about your concern and find a solution.

Best of Luck

Thanks res for all of the detail.