Davidtay, I did look at the link and try hard to find stores that have these bulbs but I could not. I will call Cree today and the phone number they give for Cree Sales Residential. I just measured the room that needs recessed lights and without the two foyer areas and not counting the connecting dining room that has a half a wall high and a half a wall long separating the home office (which is the living room) my room is 17' 8" long X 12' 2" wide. My kitchen has 6 recessed light in there that are supposed to be 900 Lumen's and it is not bright enough for me unless I put the 7th light on the sink on and that room is 14' long X 10' wide. I think I may need more than 6 recessed lights? My kitchen lights have very pretty color (Halogen Reveal but I should have went with the GE Halogen bulbs as the radius of light is not that wide on my bulbs creating areas with no light. The ceilings are 8 feet in these rooms that I am putting the recessed lights in. Maybe 800 Lumen's from a CR6 is better use of lumen's than the 900 lumen's from the Halogen bulb in my kitchen? Maybe 2,700K LED is a whiter cleaner light than Incandescent bulbs that are too yellow to me? I like the 90 CRI of the CREE. Philip's has LED bulbs with higher lumen's and more of the 3,000L I want but the CRI is 82 and they are bulbs they go in a can while I seem to like the one piece look of the CREE. Thank you Davidtay again for always helping us.

I like a lot of light as well. I think everything is well lit except for your family room. Definitely not enough light in there (especially if you want the option of a brightly lit space. There is no center lighting and everything has been arrange around the edges of the room. IMO, what you have is a HUGE span with zero lighting which is not at all adequate. Some people prefer room edge lighting and that’s what they’ll recommend. But if you like a lot of light, I don’t think the way your designer set things up will satisfy that need. If it was my home, even though the ceilings are only 8 feet, I would want a center fixture (small chandelier or semi flush)...something pretty. If you are not sure about your furniture placement they can always install the box with lots of extra wire looped in the ceiling so you can adjust it later. Just take pics of your ceiling joists when it’s all opened up (if it is opened up) so you know where everything is located. Makes it easier later. You’ll have a little sheetrock repair, but completely manageable. I would add more cans/wafers around the center of the room and put them on a dimmer. You can always turn them off or dim them if it’s too much light, but if there’s nothing there, you’re stuck with a dark room and no real way to fix it (other than having your electrician return and hack up your ceiling). I’m not a fan of LED, but some people love it. Just make sure you like the type of light they put out before you bite the bullet on them.

@Jennifer K Theres actually a large closet on the other side of that wet bar in the hallway to the left of the wet bar, I thought about closing off the wall and expanding the closet. I dont need space for a desk area at this point as the home has two butlers pantries, one of which I was going to turn into a little desk nook and a large room for a home office. My kids will have a desk setup in their bonus room as well. I thought about a reading nook but the kids want a treehouse in the backyard instead. My reasoning for the drywall was it’s the least expensive option and I think I need the wall space for hanging photos. I want to take my photo and photoshop out the wet bar and see how it’ll look!

Thank you cpartist. So the cabinets above lower ones are 2 ft. tall tall. Photos are deceptive. I thought the bottom cabinets were 9 ft and the top ones just 1 ft. LOL. Since you have commented publicly that you are not tall, what was your rationale for going with cabinets to the ceiling? No the cabinets above the lower ones are 20" tall. Here's how it works out: 120" total height to ceiling - 36" base cabinets = 84" 84" - 18" height between base cabinets and upper cabinets = 66" 66" - 40" upper cabinets = 26" Top cabinets are 20" leaving 6" of crown molding. My rationale is when I was renting an apartment in NY the cabinets didn't go to the ceiling. I spent the first week I lived there standing on the counters, cleaning grease, dirt, and other disgusting stuff that was at least 1/4" thick off of the top of the cabinets. I also feel it looks cleaner going to the ceiling. Living in the northeast most people talk about how large and open concept, 10 ft spaces are not only more costly to build but costly to heat. The kitchen in your home looks beautiful, but I’m having trouble justifying 10 ft. ceilings to myself. I don't think the difference between 9' and 10' is that huge a difference in cost. However my rationale for going with 10' was I'm in FL and heat rises. This past winter I turned on my heat 2x for maybe 2-3 hours total.