Schluter edge if it's the same height, and it must be installed before tiling. How much higher is your tile? I would worry about someone stubbing their toe on it. Oh, looks like they make Schluter with one side higher than the other. Hopefully someone else will give you some idea that they have actually used.

Raise the patio doors.

Thank you lucky and Mark. It seems like there should be a thin metal piece that can lie along the tile and run along the slider tracK.

The sliders go floor to ceiling already, so there’s no room to move.

I haven’t bought the tile, but it seems like a shame not to buy it because it’s over by a couple mm.

Scout, look at the different style Schluter edges...they have that, looks like a thin edge but it goes partially under the tile and hides the edge. The picture I attached has a much larger profile.

I would look for a thinner tile. Someone is going to get hurt. Stubbing toes is one thing, but, it could also cause someone to fall, and get badly injured.

Thinner tile like Cat said. Don't create a hazard when it is easy to avoid doing so.

Whats on the floor now? Is this new construction or a remodel?

Thank you for all the responses. This is so helpful.

It’s a remodel. The previous flooring surface is removed and it’s at the original concrete slab surface. Here is a pic of a tile at 5/8 inch next to the transition At the sliding glass door. I don’t think it will be a tripping hazard since you have to step over the transition to get in the house anyway.

This is not the tile color I”m using, but the same thickness. By the time thinset is added it will be over the metal piece. The company is recommending 1/2” thin set to set the tiles. I dont know how much that will add in height when the tile is set.

The tiles are 5/8” thickness. Maybe I will have to go to a 3/8” porcelain?

Thank you Timothy. You have to step OVER the slider tracks and a 4" wide space between the patio surface and the slider to enter the house so I dont think it is a tripping hazard, but I could be wrong. On one of my newer doors, the installers added some sort of water guard that protrudes above the level of the track - just thin strips of aluminum. Maybe I could do something like that?

I agree. It might take some agility to get over it that an infirm person might not have, but that's the nature of it. I like the L idea rather than a flat strip because it's easier to fasten and make sure it stays put. Depending on where you are, you might be able to find different grades of extrusions, different thicknesses and heights, so it's likely you can find one that has just the right dimensions for your application. If not, there are online sellers that can ship to you.

The Elephant in the room: Cement tiles. You are well aware that cement tiles STAIN, yes? And they etch, yes? And they need regular sealing/maintenance that you have to either DIY or pay someone to do it? Yes?

You are aware that many many many tile setters do not know the sealants needed, how to use them, etc? And you are aware of how many cement tiles have been ruined because the grout stained it...because they were unsealed by the tile pro?

If you answered "No," to any of my questions, I HIGHLY recommend you look at another material.

@SJ McCarthy - these are not encaustic cement tiles. They are terrazzo. This brand is installed in restaurants, bars, commercial projects. The tile in the pic is not the one I am using. It was just an example to show the height. I have the terrazzo in another part of the house and they are holding up great, even to my puppy’s pee, etc. They do have to be sealed every two years, though. I just purchased a large quantity of the company’s pavers also. I would definitely prefer porcelain but cannot find any I like. If I use the terrazzo, they can at least be ground down if necessary near the doorways. I appreciate the advice and it is something I have to consider.

@Timothy Winzell So I went to another area of the house and the tracks on those sliders are above the level of the floor. Nobody is tripping on that track. I spoke to a window contractor last night and he suggested a piece of break metal. You can see the metal strip in the front of the slider that was added as some sort of protectant. When you say L, the short arm would attach to the tile?

L-angle aluminum can be acquired with different size legs but mostly it will be found with the legs the same size. We have drilled and screwed one leg to the concrete while the other butts into the existing track.

I agree about walking across the tracks. That comment was more directed toward the notion others made that this was a hazard or that you should have the door tracks removed and raised.

https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-angle-6061?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjPaCBhDkARIsAISZN7SEOjsTpGVsryqmy2SGHPc3HIP17t8EDTgGdhaCtEYIxNQuzOgdcfYaAkVqEALw_wcB

I assume your tile would be mudset, or at least have a heavy layer of thinset so that the tile would go over the bottom leg of the L-angle

Thank you. That looks great. I will show it to the tile contractor when ready. We also may be able to grind the concrete at the doorways and/or lightly grind the tiles. I spoke to a contractor and the company and both say this is possible. But your solution is the easiest by far. This is a big help!

Sorry Scout...I guess I didn't understand your post;

"There is a concrete tile that I really want to use as a floor tile for my whole house, but it's thick enough that when laid the tile will be higher than the patio sliding glass door tracks."

@SJ McCarthyThey are concrete tiles, not cement tiles. Is that what you are referring to?

Yes. Cement is the binder in concrete...it's what makes sand, water and gravel stick together. It allows the slurry (wet concrete) to set and harden after being poured into place or a mould. The Ancient Romans had a mixture that set under water....which is how they could build bridges over wide bodies of water....They could pour the concrete (with the cement mixed into the slurry) into the water without issue.

Terrazzo is a mixture of aggregate with a binder that does not have to have cement. Today's terrazzos use epoxy as the binder...which makes them extremely tough and expensive.

Just a thought....there was a poster who had a similar problem (not sliding glass door but a floor that would sit higher than the threshold) who used an INSET mat/rug that sat flush at the threshold and then was slowly ramped up to the tile level.

Here's the link in Houzz: Recessed mat under door? (houzz.com)

They used a stiff bristle entrance mat that was set into place. I don't know if it was glued (probably not) but it worked out like a hot d@mn!

I would start with a 1/2" Schluter Jolly in a brushed aluminum to blend with the doors. You should be able to buy a piece locally to see how it mates with the tile. You can't grind the floor by the doors lower as eventually the tile all needs to be installed flat (especially a large format terrazzo) I have no concern with tripping here- my patio doors have a 1 1/2" lip on the inside due to new hurricane codes. People tend to pick up their feet and step over sliding door tracks as they aren't very pleasant to walk on...

Thank you guys!

@SJ McCarthy , I think this terrazzo is made with concrete and not epoxy. I’m also looking at another brand of terrazzo, which might be epoxy. These are 1/8” lower (1/2” as opposed to 5/8”). I’ll know more tomorrow. I’ve also seen some in resin? I’m still hoping the porcelain tiles will work, but having trouble finding any that aren’t a 3 month wait and I’m not finding any that I like as much as the terrazzo options.

Thank you for the link. Those tiles are beautiful! I dont think I will do the Matt but it is a very good idea and I will keep it in mind for the front door

Thanks @HALLETT & Co.! I agree with you! Plus I have a 4” gap between the slider and the outside patio that people have to step over to get in.

Emser offers its Building Block concrete-look porcelain tile in several shades. It's 10mm (0.394 inches) thick. Emser tiles are generally available and you can see them and often get samples at its Emser showrooms. All Emser concrete-look tiles.