I have white carrara marble dining table. High polish. When it came from the dealer it stained and etched. Small stains could be reduced at home by using rotary tool with jewelry paste to polish those off. I used Mellerud made in Germany. I cleaned top with warm water and dishwashing liquid. Polished off all small water stains and then sealed with this liquid several times. I use just a regular clean sponge and cover surface with Mellerud spread it around evenly let it soak and then apply more to remove the surface remains or move them around to create even coverage. Every time you add more liquid it will reactivate and move the excess liquid that has dried on top that will allow you to remove the unneeded excess of sealant. I repeated this about 4 times. Let it dry overnight and then repeated the same process in a few days. After about 7-8 coats the table become unstainable. Water just wipes off without leaving marks , same with oils or wine. Of course you don't let any spills sit on the surface for hours but 10-15 minutes of exposure will not harm my marble top anymore. I am sure I would have to repeat the sealing in a few years , but so far it has been liquid-proof. Do not ever assume that the marble you get from the store comes properly sealed- lesson I have learned the hard way. BTW, this sealant does not affect the color of my top at all, I have not noticed any shade or haze of different color.

What are good wall colors for this combination? I'm installing a Calacatta Novo countertop with white high-gloss IKEA upper cabinets and Voxtorp walnut look base cabinets. Using simple 3x6 white subway tiles for backsplash with gray grout and Rawtech white tiled floor (looks like light concrete). I'm thinking of introducing some greige to shake things up instead of a more typical white like Simply White or Cloud Nine (which looks great in the pictures above!) - Worn Leather Shoe, Upper West Side, or Quicksand looked interesting in the Benjamin Moore online program. Any tips?

The stones with the large patterns that require a lot of extra material could be close to that. Those are not sold by the square foot. (Most stone really isnt anyway. It's sold by the job,) They are priced by the number of slabs and the amount of worrying with it. You will NOT get "invisible matching" seams in Quartz with large patterns. You'll get "OK" seams with flow. The seams will always be visible. And it takes extra material to even get that. Which is why the costs are higher.

I only mean that the guy doing the counter is responsible for the faucet hole placement. He’d have to simulate an installed faucet to see how far that handle goes back. I’d be surprised to see a regular counter guy looking for the faucet handle clearance. It’s not their job to spec the faucets or double check the handle or make sure the sink depth leaves enough room for the faucet and all it’s parts. The KD is responsible for that stuff. If the homeowner is the KD, there ya go. I recently made this mistake. It was my fault. My Rohl faucet handle hits the window trim. But the powder room faucet not centered on the sink, that was their mistake and they had to replace that counter. We can agree to disagree.