This is a very big deal. Not because you can't adjust to it. But because you might have a real problem selling it. So, it has to be fixed before the shingles go on. First, you and the builder have to work together to have someone (NOT the builder; an architect, a home designer, a talented draftsman) do a drawing of what it will look like with the garage at 10:12. Rooflines are a tricky thing. And it's not necessarily a given that your garage will now make the house look better just because it'll be closer to the original design. You don't have the original design anymore. I'd gather my energy and make sure this doesn't become something you'll so regret later--for more than personal aesthetics reasons. Get a professional designer, architect to help you SALVAGE this plan. You might end up with something even better once the Euro excess runs its course. Emmachas and lyfia are on the right track; don't worry about what the plan books call it. Go to homeplans.com and look at their Plan AH-3230. It looks similar to what yours could be. Tat main roofline really needs to be higher than the others, but a talented architect might be able to break that rule and still have it work. I hope you'll exercise your right to change your mind about blindly letting the builder go forward till you get some professional help in working with the problem your builder created for you. It's a joint problem. Let us know!

Each region of the country has it's own look. I'm not sure if would be considered appropriate for you area. Personally, I would update the white and go with a light to medium shade of tan/taupe or even a sage/olive if it would work with the brick. I'm partial to black shutters and a black door. I can't tell if the dark colored brick is a black or a brown so the above mentioned choice might be a better choice if it is a dark brown. I would absolutely get rid of the blue because that makes the house look more dated.

I would paint the carport doors, window frames and front railing either the same color as the house (white), or Raccoon Hollow which you show above. The front porch concrete North Creek Brown, also shown above. Teal front door to make it the focal point.

I’m doing a white with a touch of light grey for my concrete floors. This is an overlay. The first white sample did not look good against my white walls, so the installer is adding a touch of black. I would recommend getting samples of the colors you like made up. I currently have some sort of an overlay, that is a very light grey, and I am happy with the color but would like to go a little whiter. I also agree with justjanni that natural grey would look good too. I think one of the most important things are the joints - my installer is putting in a lot of joints to prevent cracking. Every doorway will have a joint and there are additional joints where I have cracking in the current floor. He is adding more joints in other areas. He is suggesting putting a metal strip in the joints. He does commercial floors, including for dwr, so I feel pretty confident with his work. Lastly, make sure you have your floor plan finalized before the concrete is done. If you decide to move a wall, or get rid of a door jamb, afterwards it will be evident. For instance, I want kerf jambs for all my doors. This will need to be completed before he pours the floor. We are doing the floor in stages so I can move to the either side of the house while it is being done. For me, concrete makes sense as I have a very open floor plan and I dont want to see lots of grout lines. If you like I can post samples that he made, so you get an idea of the options he offered that we are modifying. I have white concrete counters in 3 my bathrooms of my current house and in the master bathroom of a rental. I also have concrete counters in the kitchen of my rental and in my current master bathroom. They are absolutely beatuiful But they are porous and stain easily. this is partly my fault for not having them sealed regularly. I dont think I would recommend white counter, unless it’s in a bathroom not used often.