I have been looking at these floorplans as well and have the same idea as cpartist on the exterior changes. I love the simple, more traditional look of removing the shutters an the extra garage bump out. I love the interior layouts of all of them as well, but am trying to cut corners (literally) to lessen the amount of bump outs in hopes that we can make it work with our budget. There are about 4 floor plans from the same designer that have a similar layout and range from 2000-2600 sqft. Here's the smallest of the floorplans

I don’t think wood tile is comparable to other types of tile (or tile sizes) in terms of how likely it is to become dated. Salt and pepper granite tile is the only other kind of tile I automatically react negatively to. And that’s not really dated, it’s just harsh-looking and out of place in most settings. People may say they are sick of subway tile, but it’s popular for a reason. Terrazzo was almost unheard of for ages, and it made a huge comeback. I’m about to install terra cotta tile in a kitchen. It’s already dated and a lot of people hate it. I really wanted a patterned cement tile, but decided against that. Not because it’s trendy and might become dated (I already have 100 year-old cement tile in another room), but because it was too bold for a partially open kitchen and would have contrasted too much with the adjacent wood floors. While I realize terra cotta is “dated,” I’m convinced it’s appropriate in my setting. What I would NOT Install is fake terra cotta. In a laundry room or basement, maybe. But kitchens get more focus, and I wanted a floor that seemed like it could have been original. Did I do the same with the appliances? Of course not, people don’t have 100 year old kitchen appliances. Trying to approximate that would look ridiculous. I feel similarly about wood tile. I don’t even like engineered wood floors with details like beveled edges or intentional distressing, but I don’t hate them and I think sometimes they look very nice (and suspect other times I can’t tell).

SJ McCarthy's analysis is correct. If you plan to move in a relatively short period of time, then find out what kind of flooring is typically expected for your comps. Based on the thread title, you are not designing based on your own aesthetics but interested in ROI. Obviously as a personal design decision, there is nothing like wood floors but it's expensive. Mine are costing about $18 per square foot installed - but part of that is because of all the subfloor preparation required included self leveling layer as well as soundproofing. The moderately good engineered floor were about $8.00 per square foot without installation and were not any kind of exotic wood or finish :-) I wouldn't install tile because it really is taste specific and is expensive to install and remove. As an aside, when I used to watch HGTV House Hunters there would be at least one idiotic buyers each week who would insist they wanted granite and wood floors and then would have to ask whether the flooring was wood (it was often laminate in the starter home category) and whether it was granite (sometimes it was granite looking formica). They also didn't differentiate between granite tiles (inexpensive) and slab solid surfaces nor did they ever differentiate between cheap stainless steel appliances and higher quality appliances whatever their color.

OK...now to the MEAT of the issue. By 'rugs' I assume you mean wall-to-wall carpet. Ok. That means you have a house that has a second floor (can we assume wood joists for the second floor?) that has been BUILT to handle carpet. Carpets are light. They HIDE tremendous amounts of errors that the builders caused when building the house. At this point I would ASSUME the upstairs needs strengthening BEFORE tiles can be installed. Bathrooms are different. They have extra support because they are full of heavy things (tubs, showers, sinks, cabinetry). That means the bathroom floors are strong enough to handle tile. The rest of the upstairs is NOT strong enough for tile (if you have concrete then you can ignore this thread). Tiles are HEAVY. They will cause normal wooden subfloors to bend. Tiles don't bend...they crack. Their grout cracks. Then the pop up. Now you have a HUGE mess. The installer will have to do the math for the joists + subfloor thickness. That math will tell him/her how much THICKER the upstairs subfloor has to be. You will then pay for the new plywood for the upstairs. You will pay for that plywood to be installed (can be $2/sf for material + labour). Now you can install the tile. Tiles normally sit 3/4" thick once installed. That is VERY THICK compared to your carpet. Now the subfloor thickness is added to that. It is possible the upstairs floors will rise by 1" - 1.5". That means your stairs are going to get messed up. And now we have a BIG expensive problem. And that's just for the stairs. Imagine how big of a step down you will have into the bathroom. And the doors will have to be taken down and trimmed. If you want an easy to care for surface, you should look at laminate or vinyl plank flooring. Tiling the second story of a home can be VERY expensive. So expensive that most people do NOT try it. Be VERY aware of what you ask of your house. It was NOT built for tile upstairs. It was built for carpets...The stairs could be a nightmare you never ever want to experience. Their costs are extreme. Having to 'fix' a stair that is out of code can double, or even triple the cost of the project. No. I am not kidding. We've seen $15K spent on bring the stairs up to code in a situation like this. And then you have to pay to have a floor put on them.