It's a good report. You should understand that it's probably standard for your neighborhood, and not standard for my neighborhood, but all of my neighborhood shares the same general soil characteristics, as does yours, but they are different. 1. You built in a hayfield. That means the bacteria, the mychorrizal fungus, the tiny critters, that live on the most common plant in the area, while taking over, have not yet successfully transitioned from 'field' to 'lawn', but they're working on it. I'm tempted, at first, to just leave it, but you might get ahold of a company like Bio-Vam, and order up a dose of mychorrizal fungus,and spray it on your lawn. It really did help me out, a few years back. Reach me here, if you decide to do this, I can give you a few tips. 2. The lawn does not have enough organic matter, which surprises me, given that you have 2 acres. I'm assuming you leave the lawn clippings on the lawn. Are you mowing high? You should. Mowing at 3.5 to 4 inches will really help that lawn keep organic matter. I had a pal talk to me, two acres, and it turned out he was mowing at one inch, literally, and it looked like a pool table, with an unshaven stubble: he will never have a lawn. Mow high. 3. Ignore the potash. It's not really a deficiency, and will change, over the next five years. Keep the report, as we're going to compare 'next year's' report to this one. 4. Don't add fert that has any, or not much, phosphorus. For TODAY, not three weeks from now, if you can add a half-dose of urea, I would. Keep this in mind: if you are un-disciplined, or not mechanical, or somehow overwhelmed by this job, just pass on the job: no offense taken. If a normal application of fertilizer would be a 6 on your tow-behind spreader, I'd like you to get some urea, and spread it around, almost immediately, using a setting of 3. You can't do a full dose, you have to do a half dose. A full dose, with summer almost upon us, would burn the lawn, and we don't want that. But a half dose would be perfect. Urea is something like 30-0-0, or 45-0-0, and it's all nitrogen, no phosphorus, no potash. But it has to be a light dose. Lime: Is best put down over several small applications, spread out by at least three weeks, rather than one big boomba application. You always, always, want pelletized. It flows, just like fertilizer, through your tow behind rotary spreader. For two acres, go over to H/D or Lowes, and get six bags, three for each acre. Throw it on the lawn. Eight to twelve bags per acre would be mathmatically correct, and you are not remotely interested. Solve that small problem one small step at a time. By the way, we're going to do another application, either in late fall, or early spring. Let me say this: you are at that wonderful stage, at the beginning, where almost everything you do will be correct, will show an immediate improvement, and even better, will improve MORE after that. Take this stuff in slow, rather than big, stages or applications. Give the lawn time to be a lawn. Mow tall, rather than short. You probably want a tow-behind boom sprayer (I LOVE mine) for a few hundred, to put down weed killer or liquid fert. Shop around, and reach me here if you're not finding what you need. Do not add phosphorus, or add darn little. Ignore the potash, it's fine. Let us know, here, what you're doing. You're gonna love this job.

I know the feeling, but it all sounds pretty. Any undercabinet lights? I have a friend who wanted a light kitchen at first. She's had peach with white cabinets. She went through the same thing you are. What she liked was cinnamon cabinets and black galaxy counters. With medium oak floors and a medium mixed stone backsplash in ash tones with some blacks and orange-browns. She put in a lot of overhead light and undercabinet lights and it looks gorgeous and she loves it. Whereas I searched for months for the perfect white reflective floor.

Wanted to give an update so this isn't left hanging and maybe this info will help someone else at some point. justerrilynn what you said about 'not messing with the feel of the room' really struck a chord with me and made me re-examine the reasons I wanted woven wood shades. Being honest with myself it's because I see them everywhere online, every blog, every designer's portfolio, pinterest, insta.... 90% of the time with white curtains. It's a great look and one that works in a lot of settings but that's not a valid reason to play me, too. Plus it's a little too 'of the moment' IYKWIM and will change the focus of the room. Decided to to a test run on only the 2 windows flanking the TV because that limits the loss if we hate it and we can always order more if we like it. DH installed them yesterday and I think we've hit on a way to attractively and easily cut glare when needed and not compromise the look of the windows when shades are up which is 98% of the time. Thank you for helping me get there!

Although I have never lived in one (and wouldn't want to), I have dealt with any number of HOA's in my capacity as a landscape designer. I have never encountered any issues with them signing off on my designs. Once they have the plan and plant list in hand, they can easily verify that nothing will exceed any height regulations or expand rampantly. I even had one with a 'must have lawn in the front garden' reg (ridiculous when the entry garden area is not much more than 150 square feet!) that agreed to its removal and replanting. I'd try it. Often when presented with a professional design plan, they cave :-) It is true that many HOA's have boards that consist of petty despots who like to throw their weight around to feel important and that some of the regs are arbitrary at best. My ex moved into one like that after we divorced and after butting heads a few times, got himself elected to the board and made the landscaping regulation changes he wanted and thought others would appreciate as well.