Do yellow bathroom tiles have to go? Or can we make them work?
Julia D
3 years ago
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Beachlover
3 years agoSeabornman
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Bathroom fan....do we need to replace it? Is it working at all?
Comments (5)For a bathroom of your size, a 110 cfm fan should be sufficient, providing it's actually exhausting 70 to 80 cfm. A part of your problem could be that the flex ducting is causing an increase in static pressure, which reduces the ability of the fan to move air. Changing the flex to smooth metal ducting might improve the fan's performance. You don't mention the type of roofjack or termination you have on the roof. Does it allow the exhaust stream to exit unimpeded? Does it have a back-draft flap? If so, is the flap opening properly? If it's stuck or doesn't open properly, that could be the source of your problem. Barring that, is the roofjack sized properly? If it's too small it could be constricting the air flow, which also increases static pressure, further reducing the efficiency of the fan. If you want to read a bit more about properly sizing a bathroom exhaust system, I recommend the Fantech website. It contains a great deal of good information for properly sizing and installing an effective bath exhaust system (be sure to check out the downloadable PDF files). The information you'll find there would apply in any setting, regardless of the exhaust fan brand you're considering or have installed. That being said, I have Fantech bath exhaust systems in all of my bathrooms. Not only do they operate in almost total silence, they are extremely effective. I never have a build-up of steam in my bathrooms, regardless of how hot or how long showers or baths go on. I haven't had a foggy bathroom mirror or condensation on windows in years. Here is a link that might be useful: Fantech Bathroom Ventilation...See MoreOkay, heeeere we go! (small bathroom remodel eventually)
Comments (11)Trance: I was determined to keep our small pedestal sink when it's moved to the corner, and I am probably going to go ahead and do that at first, but I decided yesterday that I would eventually put a vanity there. What I'm going to do in the meantime is keep the medicine cabinet/mirror on the same wall it's on, then add another one where the sink will be, only a bit bigger. I think there will be enough room in there for things that go in the bathroom, besides cleaning supplies, and the towels and clothes should have plenty of room on the shelves above the toilet. moccasin: No, I never open the window, and husband put one panel of the curtain back up there for now, because the wooden edge around the window was getting soaked, and, though we will probably get rid of that wood eventually, for now we don't want to be causing damage to it (eh, just in case). I love the idea of SHELVES in there, thanks for that idea! There is no other natural light in the bathroom, so I do like that bit. But, yeah, I can clean the windows from the outside, I just have to open them from the inside. They are very good insulation in themselves, I believe, since they were put in by the city due to airport noise. So if I took the inside window out of the equation, I'd have quite a bit of room in there. I promise I'll post a pic this week soon, so you can see what I mean. Put up the curved shower rod even though my new curtains have not arrived and it makes a HUGE difference. I still want to replace the vinyl stuff hanging from the window, though, because even though we only use one panel now, and it's flat against the wall, I can still elbow it and it's cold. I need to find out what the name of that material that a lot of hotels have in their showers and maybe cut that down to make curtains that fit the windows. Unless anyone has any other idea for a material that won't be cold to the touch and also won't let water through? :) The best news, though, is that a lot of this stuff doesn't have some ephemeral "eventually" to it. Husband gave me a budget today, and a GC is coming in 2-3 weeks (after he finishes some stuff for us on a rental) to give me some estimates. The budget won't allow for a full remodel, but it will give me a lot of working room, I think. Still have to be careful, though. :) Costs so far: -~$25 for the curtain rod -~$25 for the tp/magazine rack -$6.97 new shower curtains from k-mart -~$80 for shelves above the toilet (a little high, but I was desperate at that time, am a tiny bit more patient now) I should probably make a blog, huh? :)...See MoreHow can we make this sink work in our bathroom?
Comments (5)I understand flash photography and how it accentuates everything you don't want it to, not to mention the color shift, so, having said that AND having a "noticer" on steroids, I'd do one of two things. Leave it alone. You'll stop seeing it after awhile and I'm almost certain no one else sees it. Or, keep trying with the paint. I looked and looked at the picture, knowing something bothered you about the sink but didn't read what it was till after I tried to find it. If I even saw it I'm sure I thought it was a reflection from the flash :) Monica...See Moredo we tile our bathroom ceiling or only the walls?
Comments (16)The practical part: Moisture problems: Regardless of what you choose you have to have a good exhaust fan and/or window. That will take care of any moisture issues. If it’s a steam shower, or even if it’s not and you are taking glass to the ceiling, yes you need to tile the ceiling, The style part: If it’s a tub/shower combo, I personally prefer to take the tile all the way to the ceiling, but not tile the ceiling. If it’s a stand-alone shower, it depends. IMO if it’s really open and visible to the room (like a full glass enclosure), I don’t like a tiled ceiling. It’s visually heavy. But if less open/visual, then a tiled ceiling is okay, visually. And then it’s up to you if you want to do it. About a year ago, we had an upstairs guest/office bathroom redone. It had a bath/shower combo. We really wanted to take out the tub and just make it a standalone shower, but we weren’t sure if we could. The contractor was able to show us the way that we could steal some space from the attic, and re-frame it so that it could be about 44” wide instead of about 30 inches wide. But the roofline was coming down in the area where we wanted to push back into the attic. The way that it ended up is that we tiled the slanted part and then we also tiled the flat part of the original ceiling. In that bathroom it made sense to tile the ceiling because it would’ve looked really stupid and ugly to stop after the slanted part. So as far as style goes you have to look at your individual situation and decide what you think looks best....See MoreRho Dodendron
3 years agogustaviatex
3 years agoDianne Polome
3 years agoCarrie B
3 years agoMissi (4b IA)
3 years agoptreckel
3 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agochinacatpeekin
3 years agokforeverlooking
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoalwayscold
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoalwayscold
3 years ago
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