I don't think it is worth it to strip the paint in your entire house just so that you can convert back to oil. Stripping paint is a very labor intensive and messy job. Paint will chip off in high traffic areas with latex and oil based paints. You should remove what is loose/not ahdered by scraping and sanding and then repaint with a 100 percent acrylic paint. Many DIY painters do not sand well enough and that is why the paint may not be adhered in some areas. You really want every inch of the trim to be very dull and clean before applying any paint to it.

I used oil based paint years ago; but latex is the thing now. HOWEVER, our house is 14 years old and last year we started to touch up and repaint our white trim, which runs throughout the house. I only wanted to touch up and paint as necessary and had a really hard time matching the white brightness and the gloss. Finally my paint people (really the best local paint shop) asked me to bring in a door so they could get it right. Turns out our builder used oil paint on all the trim including the really glossy bookcases and fireplace surround and baseboards. Oil based paints, oddly enough, will yellow over time in rooms without much light, like the inside of a closet door or a room that isn't used often. That's exactly the way my wood trim was aging. But, I can tell you that the paint they mixed for me matches perfectly -- color brightness and gloss. It goes on beautifully and is very forgiving. Honestly, my choice of paint has been and will continue to be oil based for wood. I weigh my choices environmentally and I don't feel I've done serious damage to the environment by using oil based paint. My alternative would have been to repaint my entire house; not a viable option in my opinion. Annie

Use gesso in multiple coats to bring the chip up level with the rest. Use acrylic artist's colors to match the variegated blue effect. Coat over the repair part with clear lacquer (could be nail polish, LOL) then blend into the existing with a typical rubbing-out regime of 2000 grit sandpaper, more clear, more sanding, finally a polishing compound and wax. A lot of asian lacquer of more recent vintage "cheats" and uses gesso. That blue may be the tint they added to their gesso underlayers. Casey

Had I done this job your complaints (except for the inconsistent stain on the tread) would be covered by the disclaimer "Does not include any touchup painting or a complete dust cleanup" that goes on every proposal. If asked, I will mask off adjacent surfaces but stain and finish often work their way up behind the tape. I also charge more to do so. My position is that if an adjacent surface is just a standard paint, it's cheaper to repaint than to mask off, considering that there still may be some touchup needed. If the adjacent surface is faux finished, stone or finished cabinetry, we will take extra care. Of course that costs more so we charge more. I regularly tell clients not to finish paint before the floor sanding and finishing. We'll be sanding next to vertical surfaces at least twice, then applying finish. Are you sure the finisher didn't tape the base? In one of your pictures the base looks good but the adjacent casing appears to have the issue I mentioned, that the stain wicked up between the tape and the paint. We use dust pickup so generally we don't leave much dust but accidents do happen Like a Trio bag blowing off). We don't charge a penny for dust cleanup and don't do any beyond what is required to get the floor done right. Part of this is because my guys are more expensive than dedicated cleaners (and less skilled) while another part is that fact that we're often among the last people on a job and may be expected to clean up messes from every trade that preceded us without compensation. Contractors here usually hire a professional crew to clean from top to bottom after all the trades are done. A skilled painter shouldn't have any problem touching up your trim. Walls and trim are painted more frequently than floors are finished so this is typically not a challenge.