I think many here are being a little hard on the crew that did this work. Whoever did the work is definately lacking some experience in woodworking and capet for not finishing the transition, but i see nothing wrong with the tile work itself. Obviously they arent carpet mechanics, or they would have finished the carpet transition, so let's get that one out of the way first. Secondly, many of the pictures show incomplete and improperly completed cabinetry and areas where they cant possibly nail or anchor the wood trim to. Let's face it, ANY wood trim looks crappy on a tile job but it was required here. Let's ask why it was required here. Because the door sills and the base were higher than the finish floor height ??? ok so why didnt they remove and reinstall the basebaords ? possibly because it may break when being removed or some pieces may have been already cracked, PLUS it would have lowered the height of the base. What does this mean? It means that potentially the walls needed preparation, painting, and possible the walls painted to to get an exact match ... which any experienced floor mechanic will tell you is no easy or quick task ... so they used trim. I guess alot of this depends on what was discussed between the company and the owner/poster. Back-cutting for open-ends in shoe-molding and 1/4-round molding is standard, however it is unusual to do a complete 45 degree cut, only a partial with a sheared end (pictured): example: The problems I see at your inside corners where the trim is riding above the tile could possibly be from grout, thinset, or tile holdiung it up, but I would guess it is from an improperly cut inside corner on the moulding piece. The isntaller probably did 2' 45 degree angles which would work if the existing bas eand the floors were perfectly perpendicular and parallel ... they never are ...so the right way to do it is to cus the one piece square to the inside corner and to cove the meeting piece to the profile of the trim. This facillitates the cove pivoting on the radius of the trim piece making any out od squareness irelevent, giving the appearance of a perfect fit almost every time (pictured): example: Placing trim accross transitional areas or doorways is unusual, but it really depends what was there to begin with. If the existing doorway sill height went above that of the top edge of the tile, then they probably did not want to leave an opens gap. I can not tell by the pictures if the tile is an issue or of varying heights. It seems that your only issues here are aesthetics caused by basebaords that were too high to begin with, and incomplete or improperly completed cabinetry work, possibly because this area had carpeting in previously ? While I agree the carpentry craftsmanship is not exemplary, to be fair, they did not have alot to work with here because some of the pictures you have shown, show areas the could not do much about to begin with, like the metal dishwasher base (cant nail to metal and there might not have been too much width to chamfer out the trim for it, and the corner undr your cabinet doesnt even have a base block to nail to, which is either a opening for hvac or air moement, or it is an area never completed with wood base to begin with (whoever did your cabinets to begin with didnt finish it?). The only way this could have been done to ease every concern you have shown, if the existing base was gapped, would have been to remove all the basebaords, scribed them back to the tile or replaced them entirely if they break during removal (no guarantees on that one - sometimes they break and sometimes they dont and sometimes htey are already installed cracked but repaired and you cant see it til you try to remove them), then this would have made the wood base height LESS and tould have required at a minimum touchup paint, and in the worst of cases, respacling, repainting, and even then it might not have matched the walls, so the pickiest of people would have wanted to paint their entire walls to match exactly. It begins and ends with the basebaords height. If you dont like the look of the trim, then the base needs removed and reinstalled or replaced to cover the gap, which would create a need to repaint or repair the wall above where the base was originally set. I agree the carpetntry work on the wood trim was bad. The tile looks good.

Estimated expansion is generalized in the table. Depending on your local climate, house particulars, wood species, etc. expansion will likely differ. For example, if one lives in a very dry or very wet climate expansion (and contraction) will have particular values, that is - joint change distances. Here's a couple of solutions, given the difficulty of exactly estimating joint change: 1. use a slightly wider skirt molding and hope it's wide enough 2. you could also use wider skirt molding and just observe floor movement. If a crack is seen then fetch some quarter round, stain it or varnish it and tack it into place. Oh, and remember to let the wood cure for a couple of weeks in the room to reduce change after install.

@greenhearted Z5a IL Thank you! It is a tough decision!! I like the floor a lot, but it’s not infallible! I don’t particularly like the grooves, if Flooret had a non-groove option I would have chosen that! Contrary to what people say, stuff does get caught and accumulate in the grooves!! The dark color does show stuff. I don’t know what to say about that. I just didn’t like kingswood, but I would have preferred a slightly more medium brown over brenwick. Other shades were too gray or too light for me. Overall I am quite happy with it. I like the large planks a lot. Workers coming in have been impressed with it...even thinking it’s real sometimes and wanting to know the brand. Truthfully, I’ve had to take care of my dad the last few years in another state and I haven’t been there living in it with day to day use. Only been there once in while for a few days. Kinda crazy. That’s why I disappeared off this thread for a while. So it’s a little bit hard for me to give a thorough review, but I hope this helps...Good luck!!

Just make sure your stairs remain to code. As soon as you change the SURFACE material (you currently have carpet) to something new, you need to ensure the stairs are still to code. The installers might not be able to tell you if they will maintain code or not. A finishing carpenter is the guy you pay to work with stairs. CoreTec is not a thin product. The planks can be quite thick. I cannot find the thickness of this product in the link. I'm going to guess it will alter the rise-height of the treads. That can be an issue at the bottom and the TOP of the stairs (what's up there? is it more carpet). That's more of an issue to me than how to finish a rounded presentation such as your bottom stair. And once you alter the surface of the stair with a different material than is currently there (currently carpet) you *might have to bring the entire stair case to current code (no more grandfathering). It may not be the case. Your local building codes will tell you what needs to be done to stairs when you resurface. A finishing carpenter can be found and paid (they are the most expensive guys who swing hammers in the building industry) to deal with the code issues. I would be concerned if your installers do not know the 15+ codes for stairs (most don't...cause that is many more years of education than they have). Please check your requirements for those stairs.