Hi Raj, The planner file works for me. Maybe you have to have the IKEA planner software installed? Your floor plan indicates that your living/dining area is 12' wide and that the kitchen is narrower due to the entrance hall. Your planner file shows different dimensions. To get the most out of using the IKEA planner, you should enter all room dimensions exactly (including ceiling height which is important in a small space), and definitely show the windows as they are very important to natural light and sightlines. I think FoxCrane's layout would work really well for your space. I'd rather see the fridge adjacent to the hall rather than blocking the transition between your kitchen and living space. The island would provide task space facing the windows, which is missing in your layout. I now have that with my new island and I really like it. The island also provides storage without taking up too much visual space. Some comments on your current plan. The small cabinets on either side of the hood look a little awkward to me, and wouldn't provide that much storage would they? For the corner cabinet, many prefer the 37" corner cabinet fitted with third party 32" super susans that sit on shelves and hold a lot. Finally, you'll get the best advice by following the advice in the STICKY: New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me! thread at the top of the Kitchen Forum - give us more info on who will live there and what you want out of the space (e.g. are you hosting elaborate dinner parties or heating up take-out?). This post was edited by feisty68 on Thu, Jun 19, 14 at 19:23

funky.... I moved the sink and the dw but I can't make the window over the sink bigger. the only thing we can afford is a bi-parting 10' window... if I go up on the window it will cost me about $10,000. which we cannot afford. this window will give us a clear 5' opening in the middle of the window. it is the same size as the sliding patio door in the great room with will also be bi-parting opening clear 5' in the middle of the door. we looked and looked at many options and this seems like the best solution . The cheapest window I saw that came close was $7,000. that is also over budget.

Hey Jillius! I believe the ceiling height (where you pointed) is the same as the kitchen, but I'll double check when I get into the house. Good point about the head space remaining the same due to the design of the staircases.. duh, I should've known that. :) I'm struggling to wrap my head around what I'd do here though.. level the floor, add 2 steps (up) from the basement, move the kitchen doorway over, and add 2 steps (down) from the kitchen to the great room? The benefit is that this increases the 7' width to 8'. However, since the stairs and exterior walls constrain any more opening, changing the back stairs area probably isn't enough for a U or L-shape, huh? I just hate facing walls while I'm in the kitchen (cooking, cleaning, and/or prepping). But I know galley makes the most sense.. Here are actual measurements I took (red are walls I'm contemplating removing). Here is another view of the backstair case area, while standing on the basement steps: The brown skinny door on the left next to the kitchen steps is a closet/pantry thing. View from standing in the great room looking toward kitchen: View in kitchen:

I agree with JM -- I would let the upper cabinets on the wall to the left of the range die into the range wall and not have any additional cabinets around the range. I would also increase the hood width to 6" wider than the range -- right now, it looks skimpy and, in addition, a wider hood does a better job capturing and exhausting steam, smoke, odors, grease, etc. Ideally, the hood should be 24"D as well. I would build the refrigerator in so it looks more like a built-in refrigerator. Flank it with 3/4" finished end panels and then mount a full-depth upper cabinet above the refrigerator and b/w the end panels. Regarding the refrigerator...it looks like it's 36" wide. If so, then it's fine b/c that's one of the sizes manufacturers are standardizing on...that and 70" to 72" tall. So, be sure the alcove created by the end panels and upper cabinet is at least: 37"W (to allow for air clearance and so the refrigerator can be removed for repair or replacement) 72" tall The depth will depend on the refrigerator you get. The end panels should be no deeper than the refrigerator box. The doors must extend out past all surrounding items on the side -- counters, cabinets, walls, etc. (Manufacturers are also standardizing on 42" wide.) . Where is the Mudroom door that comes into the Kitchen? A fully measured layout with would help a lot -- measurements for each window/wall/door/doorway and the distances between each window/wall/door/doorway. The doors/doorways should be labeled as to where they lead. (Window and door/doorway measurements should include trim.) A full-floor sketch of the new plans would really help. A sample layout is included in the following FAQ: How do I ask for Layout Help and what information should I include? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2767033/how-do-i-ask-for-layout-help-and-what-information-should-i-inclu (I'd post it here for you, but Houzz is not letting me post pictures tonight for some reason.)