Don’t expect seconds from a seconds company to be able to have small grout lines or be flat enough to do any herringbone. And you are NOT getting a good looking herringbone out of any 12x24 tile anway. The size is too large, and the space is much too small for either herringbone or chevron. And the proportion is too off. It’s too wide compared to length. Herringbone needs a narrower tile. And if you actually do mean chevron and not herringbone, you can forget that. No installer is going to hand cut every tile to a chevron pattern without a HUGE upcharges in labor. HUGE. What uncoupling system is going to be used over that plywood? Have you checked the deflection rating of your joists and floor assembly to be sure that your flooring structure isn’t too flexible? Because you will get cracked tile if you move forward and the floor is not supportive enough. You have some Giant Red Flags here. You need to put the brakes on and talk with some competent Pros ASAP. That would be a Kitchen and Bath Designer, and their fully qualified tile contractor. https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer https://nkba.org/info/why-hire-a-designer [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/10-tests-for-you-and-your-contractors-first-meeting-dsvw-vd~5332686?n=90[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/10-tests-for-you-and-your-contractors-first-meeting-dsvw-vd~5332686?n=90)

As a real estate appraiser I would advise to try to keep it. It will reduce the valuation by a few percent. If I were to appraise your home, I would now have to compare and adjust it from a 3 bathroom home to a 2.5. That's anywhere from $2,500 to $5,000 adjustment downwards. Understand that I don't know where you live or your real estate market. Even though there is no bedroom on the floor, it's a very usable space. At the very least, I'd put in a shower. You just never know when someone will lose their mobility. It looks like an older home. If your laundry room is in the basement, you may want to reconfigure it to bring the laundry up to the main living area. That would be an improvement in utility and the only reason why I would consider eliminating it. Hard to see everything, but you could reconfigure the doorway/entry and take over that vestibule area.

Well it's hard to figure lighting if drawings aren't accurate or noted well, and when plans aren't thought out well enough, but "just adequate," I often hear "it's too difficult to change that now," but continuing with all that money and human capital (stress, choosing, scheduling, installing tile, etc etc) eventually leads to regret in "should've done it another way when I had the chance." But maybe you have the perfect layout, so then . . . Because you have the shower and toilet wing walls creating "darkness," I would consider the vanity lighting as part of the main lighting, on the same switch. So the vanity, shower can, and can in front of the shower all switched together. The location of vanity depends. Standard toekick, furniture style, or floating? You will have 2.5' of extra space to either fill or make symmetrical. What kind of lighting and feel of the space do you want? Sconces? Over-vanity style (hollywood lights lol)? General throw of 6" or 4" cans or tighter cones of 3" trims? Ductwork/piping in joist spaces and ceiling height? Dark matte/bright white glossy tile everywhere? That all makes a difference on how many/where.

I would not want the shower half in front of a window, nor the toilet.