Thanks. This is the tile.

https://www.flooranddecor.com/porcelain-tile/volga-aqua-matte-porcelain-tile-100248228.html

Chevron

Thanks. Any more suggestions?

Just a reminder I am sure you know this, do not tile directly on the plywood floor. I bought an apartment where that was done and it has delaminated and must be redone.

I like a stacked pattern for a more clean contemporary look

hardy board installed

stacked? never thought of doing that. which direction, horizontal or vertical?

I have seen this tile and it is very nice looking. Please post when it is completed.

Don’t expect seconds from a seconds company to be able to have small grout lines or be flat enough to do any herringbone. And you are NOT getting a good looking herringbone out of any 12x24 tile anway. The size is too large, and the space is much too small for either herringbone or chevron. And the proportion is too off. It’s too wide compared to length. Herringbone needs a narrower tile.

And if you actually do mean chevron and not herringbone, you can forget that. No installer is going to hand cut every tile to a chevron pattern without a HUGE upcharges in labor. HUGE.

What uncoupling system is going to be used over that plywood? Have you checked the deflection rating of your joists and floor assembly to be sure that your flooring structure isn’t too flexible? Because you will get cracked tile if you move forward and the floor is not supportive enough.

You have some Giant Red Flags here. You need to put the brakes on and talk with some competent Pros ASAP. That would be a Kitchen and Bath Designer, and their fully qualified tile contractor.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

https://nkba.org/info/why-hire-a-designer

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/10-tests-for-you-and-your-contractors-first-meeting-dsvw-vd~5332686?n=90[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/10-tests-for-you-and-your-contractors-first-meeting-dsvw-vd~5332686?n=90)

Sophie - I have no idea what you are going on about. I asked if these tile should be placed horizontal or vertical. Never said anything about chevron, herringbone, etc.

I also placed a picture of the hardyboard underlayment that is currently being installed. The first picture was just a "visual" for the room geometry. That's it

And is placed completely and totally incorrectly. Not to TCNA industry standards. Which will not help with your future cracking tile. You have a hack doing your work. Him not rejecting F&D homeowner purchased seconds tile was one sign, and not replacing that water delaminated plywood subfloor was another. (All of that water damage needs to be cut out, and behind it inspected. Including the walls.) But that backerboard installation? Total clueless hack.

Hire better. Or deal with the consequence of a cheap hack.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

So it is blue but supposed to be like wood grain? I would rethink that very specific look and go more classic since you don't change tile often.

Lay the tile in the way that matches your adjoining space - looks like that would be hallway? If the wood runs horizontal, run it horizontal. Since the room is so small though, I'd probably want it laid to visibly increase the space, so continuing from the doorway, not cutting across it.

Everything Sophie Wheeler said is absolutely correct. Even if you don't plan on fancy placement of the tile, you still need to have first quality, rectified tile if you want it to lay flat and not have lippage.

I would have it lay vertically

I have 6x24 porcelain tile in my small master bath, It is laid longways, from the door to the tub. I think it looks better that way. I don’t have rectified tile, and I have zero issues with lippage.

thanks guys. I decided to run in "longways", parallel to the tub.

It is pretty tile. Looked pretty neutral when we saw it. I have to agree though go through the boxes and look at each tile to make sure they are straight.