I think you can prolly get away with positioning a ten foot high hoop house in any orientation and would make that decision based on good sun exposure. Most hoophouses are a true quonset style, and the air runs over them much like an air-foil on a truck. I've five greenhouses, two of which are hoop houses, one that low I use for overwintering perennials. I've never had an issue with wind, and they are built on a hill where they get it full force. I've had gusts to 70 mph in storms so far. YOu will want your films secured well, I like the clamp systems. I also have the hoops secured in ground with concrete, but you will have to consider codes, as some states consider cement secured posts as "permanent" versus temporary structures and it impacts real estate evaluation.

bencelest, Nice picture; you can definitely see where one tree begins and the other ends. mckh, I am glad you asked since I just saw your other post and it looks like you may have some rootstock sucker growth on one tree, though I can't say for sure. I have read that you want to remove rootstock growth since it takes away vigor from the grafted portion that you want to grow. I don't think it will make any fruit you get from the grafted portion inedible (though it may not be the best since it has to compete for nutrients, water, etc), but the rootstock may produce it's own fruit, which I'd guess is mostly not so tasty. My parents had a tree when I was a kid that got taken over by rootstock--nasty fruit. I can only describe what I have seen here in CA, but the average citrus graft line looks like a little knob on your tree's trunk anywhere from 2 inches or so to a foot or so off the ground (usually 6-8 in); it often looks like a change of angle in the growth and sometimes there is a change in texture of the bark that the above picture dmeonstrates so clearly. I usually see a diagonal line in the bark, but I'd guess all of this differs depending on techniques used...Sometimes the graft line is hard to see, but usually not. If you look up Four Winds Growers, they have some pictures posted on their web site of what a graft line looks like too--you'll have to look around a bit on their website, but it's there somewhere. HTH.

Hi Dayna and welcome! I'm pretty sure roses want more sun than that location. Whenever I've had hybrid teas near a wall, they've been tall and bare, even though the blooms were pretty. So I decided not to mess with them anymore. Also, I would plant them way away from the pool cage - like where your lawn begins on the other side of your liriope - so the screens can be easily accessed for maintenance and the roses can, too. It looks like the sun position would be better out there. How about trying several in containers for a couple of seasons to see how they do? I have two Natchitoches noisette plants that I started from cuttings someone on the Rose Forum gave me. When they got bigger, I put them in indigo-blue pots. They are blooming in nice sprays of palest pink right now and I love the color combo. Here's another couple of roses I potted up in pots I painted - these seem to do better in the shade of the house than HT roses, but I'm not sure what they are. Now, 8 months later, these plants are big and bushy with attention-getting blooms: You might be interested in one of my favorite blogs - http://sherryocala.blogspot.com/ I've really learned a lot. Also, check out the Roses Forum, if you haven't already. They're very smart over there! Susie

If I could add one suggestion. For the traders that come after you get there, they are trying to unload and set up, please give them a chance to set up and get their mind together before you attack. You could hep them by helping them unload and then give them a few minutes to enjoy before the trading begins and not everyone hit them at once. Just a suggestion I hope helps. Mike