As far as I know both units are the same. They would have been installed by the builder. One thing I do know is that the home inspecition showed that the blower was installed "backwards" resulting in the duckwork having to make a u-turn. The inspector said that this was not a problem but would probably make the system less efficient. The unit is on the ground sitting on concrete surrounded by nothing but gravel. I think he said something about the fact that the unit is old and not made anymore he had to track an accumulator down and it will take 2-3 weeks to get it. I am not sure about this guy now, he charged us around $300 to add freon earlier this year and that seemed pricy at the time but he showed me his price list and it clearly says Refridgerant Adjustment Suggested list price $300. This is what he wrote: (Unit low on freon) found both isolation valves leaking under caps. Leak lock caps. Adjust R-22 level 224/71@90 anb 7* Superheat.

The pipe can be installed in the metal pan in a few different methods. One is that the pipe is inserted up into the metal and a rubber doughnut shaped ring is pounded down around the pipe to seal it. If this is what you have, I would think that it could be repaired with a new ring...about $3.00 for parts. Sometimes, especially in the older installations, a metal pipe comes up into the metal pan and it is sealed with oakam and pounded lead wool. if your pipes are plastic, you probably don't have this although I changed a shower last month that had plastic pipe sealed with this method. If your pipe is plastic and the pan is plastic, then it is generally cemented with PVC or ABS cement. I think you mentioned metal so my guess would be that you have the first method mentioned here. If you can see under the shower, have someone run the water an watch with a flashlight. You should be able to see where the water is coming from. If by chance you have a crack in the base, then you have to decide whether you just want to change the base or the whole shower. Let us know what you are told tonight and maybe you can get some ideas on whether you are being treated fairly or not.

A couple things you can do: 1) Make sure the drain holes in the horizontal track are all open. 2) Caulk where the frame meets the wall. 3) Caulk the inside corner where the the horizontal track meets the vertical portion, since water can get into that hairline gap. 4) Caulk that open gap you have. For all of these, I would use 100% silicone (or "silicone II"). It can be messy for a novice, so use masking tape for both sides. Apply, then wet your finger and smooth it/remove excess (wiping finger with dry paper towel), then immediately peel away the masking tape (have a trash can ready). Then wet finger again and "tool" it lightly (smooth it) one more time if it needs it. Let dry. Enjoy.

I'm not sure you will have room for a 36" pantry...both b/w the west wall and window as well as in general. You've used up 258-3/4" of the 259-3/4" along that wall. However... Realistically, you will probably have 1/8" to 1/4" b/w the range and adjacent cabinets (I know, some say you can have 0" clearance b/w them. However, in reality, you will need some to be able to move it in to & out of position when installing/removing for repair and cleaning under & behind. This means you need some "wiggle room" b/w the cabinets and range.) You will need 1/2" to 1" of filler b/w the walls and cabinets on each end. If you look at your KD's plan, notice there's 1" of filler b/w the cabinet on the left & the wall and 2" of filler b/w the cabinet on the right & the wall. That's not to "use up" 3", it's to allow you room to clear the walls when the opening drawers/doors of your base and upper cabinets. BTW...doors need more filler to allow them to fully open than do drawers and pullouts (pullouts, not roll out tray shelves (ROTS). ROTS have doors, so cabinets w/ROTS need more filler than drawers.) One caveat to this: If your cabinets are framed/partial overlay or framed/inset, you won't need as much filler to allow opening/closing doors & drawers. With inset, in particular, you probably won't need any filler for the doors & drawers. You are assuming the walls are close to perfectly straight all the way up from the floor to the ceiling. This is not the case in the majority of houses. If your walls aren't perfectly straight, you will also need filler to accommodate that, especially with tall cabinets (b/c they're all one cabinet & must fit the entire height of your room). Note that partial overlay and inset do not necessarily eliminate filler needs with uneven walls. (There are ways around this, especially with custom and some semi-custom lines...if the stile/frame on the cabinet side next to the wall is wider than normal, you can sometimes scribe cabinets to fit wall imperfections. However, you will need a very experienced installer with a good "attention to every detail" attitude to make this work...not all that common, unfortunately.) Window...you really should have at least 3" or so b/w the window and adjacent cabinets for "breathing room" as well as "paint room". Yes, you can go right up to the window trim, but you don't want your window to be crowded and look cramped. Desk...Most people remove desks when remodeling b/c they've found them to be clutter magnets. Instead, I suggest creating a Message/Command Center. It can still hold your calendar and/or message board, but also set it up so it contains your keys, phone/camera/iPod chargers, mail (organized!), phone books/directories, etc. I suggest a standard 24" deep cabinet (with 25.5" deep counters) and no seat. I did put a seat in the layout, but I suggest you eliminate it. It's up to you. Here's what it would look like with a small, fixed...