my seed list was last updated 12/7/14. some seeds have been traded/used since then. but I have not found the magic link to update my list. can email current list to anyone interested.

1. Not really until spring of 2014. Take that time to develop good lawn practices (see below). 2. I used to live in Dayton and had a full sun lawn. The lawn was a mix of coarse fescues and Kentucky bluegrass. It looked like hell, but I was a student and only barely had time enough to mow it. If you have full sun, I would tend to go with 100% KBG. If you have full shade, then you are stuck with fescue. If you have sunny/shady areas, then use a mix of fine fescues and KBG. The fescues will thrive in the shade and the KBG will dominate as much as it can everywhere it gets enough sun. If you want to do this right, use cheap seed in the spring and save for expensive seed in the fall. Kill everything before seeding in the fall. In the spring it doesn't matter because you will have weeds anyway. 3. Soil diverts water when you build up a pile higher than the the soil where the water is coming from. In the picture I posted there are two swales. One is on the upper property and one is on the lower property. By mounding the soil between the swales, the water is diverted off the property toward the sidewalk. Note the grass is greener in the swales. 5. Works like magic. There is another forum where most of the gurus have tried it. It really does work. 6. Fix it now and then start. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in Las Vegas your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. One last exception is Kentucky bluegrass. The experts mow it at 3.5 inches (one notch below the highest setting). Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it. If you are using chemical fertilizers, too little is better than too much. If you are using organic fertilizers, it is the other way around. At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide. Usually the only flak I get on this plan is with mowing height. There are people who insist that KBG should be mowed at 2.85 to 3.15 inches. Frankly, I don't have time to tune my mower like that. Just keep it simple and don't let it get up to 9 inches before mowing it down to 3. There are hybrid varieties of grass that the developers want you to mow at custom heights. Bull. There's low, medium, and high. I have a yard of St Augustine that ranges from 6 inches to 35 inches high. Here is a picture of my chow chow sitting in it. I believe St Aug is an exception to many grass rules, so this is my experiment. Don't try it at home without understanding what you might be getting into. My experiment is about watering. That spot where she was sitting had not been irrigated for about 8 months through a pretty serious drought on the edge of the Texas desert. Note that the grass is weed free and does not need water...yet. Again, there is more to this experiment, but the point is the rules have been written this way for a reason. Watering too frequently is always a problem. Waiting until the grass needs water always works and keeps the weeds out.

We both know your first post was not an attempt at humor. Yes it was, you cannot read my mind. My first comment was directed at the members of the forum to quit sugar coating the facts. They know me and my since-of-humor where as you are new here and do not.. Your first paragraph has very little merit if you had read my entire initial post. Nothing had been overlooked, I stated I wasn't planting fescue this year, so there was no boat to miss. Incorrect IMO. Look at the title of your post and your comment in the initial post: That is, until somebody told me I could build a nice fescue lawn since I have a sprinkler system. They seem to think I can keep it green all summer long and still enjoy the benefits of a fescue lawn (green lawn well past the Bermuda dormancy). My lawn is already starting the transition into dormancy, so I was wondering what you people thought of my query. That leads me to believe and many others I assume from their responses that you were considering a to replace the Bermuda with Fescue. You may think I like to belittle people before offering advice but that is just your opinion not based on historical facts of my performance over the last two years. I offer no apologies, you are free to take or reject my advice, doesnt make me one bit of difference one way or the other I still don't understand why it makes no sense to kill off what I have now and seed with Yukon. Because it is a waist of time, money, and effort to do so on a project this large. What ever you have will come back unless you use soil sterilizers and remove all the sod plus a few inches of top-soil then replace it. I suspect since you said you plugged the existing Bermuda 27-years ago it was U3. It has pretty good cold tolerance; it just needs more water and fertilizer than Yukon to look nice. If maintained U3 will look better than Yukon with equal cold tolerance. You are on the right track looking at Yukon as it has pretty good cold tolerance among the common varieties. I still recommend a blend of at least two or three of the top varieties, because one will dominate and take over. It is like playing 3 numbers on a Craps Table, your chances are 300% better of winning. The top seeded varieties for cold tolerance are ranked in order for your area: Riviera SWI 1014 and 1046 Yukon Contessa Veracruz Now dont come away thinking common or seeded Bermuda varieties are the best cold tolerant of the Bermuda grasses because they are not. They are just the most inexpensive and easiest to obtain. The champs are hybrids like Ashmore, OKC 70-18, Patriot, and Aussie Green, Midlawn, and Premiere. However finding one of these is not likely in your area, you can find Patriot and OKC 70-18 south of you in Oklahoma City area sod farms and the cost are about $1.50/ft2 if you pick it up. Up to double that if delivered.

Hi Amazin , sorry I'm new at this web stuff ( mostly just a lurker) and couldn't find were I wrote to you the 1st time ... me feel so dumb with this puter stuff... but yes I have 9 begonias and 6 are from Logee's, some are named and other are ( pass a along's ) ..... Named ones= Begonia " Richardsiana" B." Snow Capped " B. "Tea Rose" B. "Hot Tamale" B. "Good and Plenty " B, "Tiny Gem " B. " Silver Queen " The Richardsiana has in pass week took a big flop , and so not sure whats up with it , taken it back into house , hope it was just heat stroking from 100 + daze we have been in for pass couple of weeks here in nastyville , so not sure about it. Two other's unknown named ones but pretty just the same and last one I think mite be B. " Sophia Cecile " not sure. I see you have " My Special Angel " have been looking at it in the catalogs . sorry I'm so long winded.... but sure there must be something in your long list that we can work with . P.s. I wont make it to any plant swap so..... not sure how we would do this if we've a mind to ???? But thanks for your time and effort if thats the only way .